Noob plan, just want to make sure. Thanks

[steomi]

Hello all,
I Think I have what I will be getting from help with others on here. I am in Wisconsin (rain, snow, sleet, slop, you know all the good stuff :wink: ) and want to use it year round. I am looking more for distance so I know I will need to carry extra batteries (later on) along with charger (still need to find 5 amp portable) and a bike kit for repairs (already have ). I am a 5' 8" 250 - 300 lbs 40 year old man in HORRIBLE shape along with a bad knee. Will be using the throttle a lot at the beginning and as I get in better shape pedal more and more than just use the throttle for uphills (this is my goal ). Well here is what I am looking at and would like your opinion on it. Thanks again.

http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_nc.php
NC26_Fast Front Fast 26 inch Nine Continent Kit (2806 hub, 25A Infineon Controller, throttle, CA-DP) $435.00 USD
TorqArmRev3 NEW, Front Universal Torque Arm with double hose clamp. $28.00 USD

http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-2/lifepo4-lithium-ion-phosphate/Detail
48V 20AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack
SKU: LFP4802005001
PRICE: $598.00

or

http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-16/36V-30AH-V2.5-LiFePO4/Detail
36V 30AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack
SKU: LFP3603005011
PRICE: $738.00

Bike:
used Trek 820

Thanks Again,
Steve

 

[FMB42]

Welcome to ES steomi,

I don't ride my e-bike in the rain or snow, so I can't comment on just how weather proof these hub motor/speed control/battery systems are.

However, I will recommend that you wear some type of knee protection . There are quite a number of knee protection devices that address "impact" and/or "twist" protection. You're probably already planning of wearing some sort of knee (and, of course, head) protection but, I thought I'd mention it anyway.

Good luck and good riding!

 

[steomi]

Thanks for the welcome FMB42,

Yes I have my knee brace and most definitely will have head protection. People in WI don't seem to notice bike riders around here. Will have lights and all safety features for the bike before it will be taken out.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[torker]

Welcome to ES. I'd say you could go for the 36 v unless you are a speed demon. 30 ah will get you tons of range. My 2806 in a 20 " rim goes 18 mph. @ 36 and 24 mph. @ 48 using saggy sla so in a 26" rim should be a lot faster. Maybe someone here will give you their speed with that setup. Get some mirrors too if you haven't already. I always watch the cars coming up on me.

 

[steomi]

Thanks torker,
I appreciate your input, but have no idea when you said "using saggy sla so in a 26" rim" lol :lol: new to all this yet. Need to treat me as a 2 year old when discussing this. Still at the early development stage yet.

Steve

 

[vanilla ice]

He means that because of his cheap sealed lead acid batteries, his usable voltage gets pulled down when the motor loads it. For example a 48v battery pack may "sag" down to 38v when you nail the throttle. He mentions your 26" tire diameter because this compared with his 20" tire will make a big difference in speed.

 

[steomi]

vanilla ice,

Thank you. lol. So if those are cheap batteries what are some other batteries to look for in later purchases. I like to get the most out of a dollar, specially now a days.

 

[itchynackers]

Do you need to charge during the trip, or just at home? May make a difference as to what chemistry battery you choose. For $600 you can get a helluva lipo setup. But you'll probably only want to charge it at home.

 

[steomi]

Hello itchynackers,

I will need something I can charge on the go. There are going to be many times it will be an all day adventure. All the sites will be much nicer on a bike versus a car . So I know there will be many times I will loose track of time. lol

 

[StudEbiker]

Personally, I think you are on the right path. I would encourage you to go with the 36v LiFePo battery, but maybe not 30ah, maybe just a 20ah. There was someone awhile back that bought a 40ah battery and later wished they hadn't because in reality most of your rides are probably not going to need that much battery and with a big battery then you can't leave any of it at home you end up carrying around a bunch of battery you don't need. You could get a 20ah battery to start and if you decide you occasionally need more range than that will give you you could get a 10ah battery to parallel with the 20ah. As far as the suggestion of LiPo batteries.......FWIW I think you maybe want to get a little more experience before playing around with batteries that have the potential to go up in a ball of flame. LiFePo batteries are extremely safe and user friendly and are very good on e-bikes because they don't sag very much under load. One thing I want to mention that I just learned a lesson about is that if you are going to let your LiFePo batteries sit for more than a month at a time, they need to be charged occasionally. I just had to get a cell replaced in a PIng type battery because I was under the impression that LiFePo cells are shelf stable for months at a time. That is true as long as they are not connected to a BMS, but if they are, the BMS draws power from one of the cells to keep the balance in the pack. Thus killing that one cell. Just a little plug here, but I bought my battery from HighTekbikes and Terry has been beyond helpful with any questions and service that I might need. It may be a little more than buying direct from Ping, but if you need to send your pack back for service think about the extra cost and added downtime of sending back to China. Plus, terry's batteries come in the heavy duty shrink wrap which I like much more that sticky duct tape. 8) Good luck.

 

[steomi]

StudEbiker thanks for the advice. Your right about maybe dropping down to the 20ah. I am just starting, and also that will remind me I have to work too on those long day out. lol Also appreciate the words of wisdom about the recharge if they sit (which I hope and pray they don't ) I was planing on building some type of case for the batteries since I may be caught in rain or blizzard. (Wisconsin saying... wait 5 minutes and the weather will change if you don't like it now) Just curious though, What are some other good bikes, used around $300.00 U.S. out there, it's been about 20+ years since I have looked. Last one I had I built almost from ground up. Lost it in a snow storm when a car clipped me into a snow bank. I was fine but the bike was a loss that was the last bike I had. So shoot me some good ideas. Thinking full steel frames and forks. and all different styles. I am sure this will not be my last one lol

 

[dogman dan]

Re batteries. The 48v 20 ah is a bit too big and heavy to carry well on most bikes. 36v 20 ah will be a good size though, and give you at least 20-25 miles of range. However, the 48v 15 ah battery works well too, giving faster top speed and better performance on hills. It really pairs nicely with the 2807 motor.

The 48v 15ah or 36v 20 ah pingbatteries are an easy size to find a box or bag to carry them in, and can fit in the frame triangle of most hardtail mountian bikes like the trek 820. One thing about the 48v battery that is nice, is it charges faster. Get the 5 amp charger and the 48v battery can fully charge in 3.5 hours. About 5 hours for the 36v 20 ah. Both batteries are the same size and weight.

So if you want real speed, and don't have huge steep hills, go 2806 and the 48v 15 ah battery. If you want moderate speed and don't have huge hills go with the 2807 or the 2806 and the 36v 20 ah battery. If you do have some fairly long steep hills, then get the 48v and 2087 motor.

2807 motor at 36v= 23 mph. 2807 at 48v= 27 mph. Add about 4 mph for the 2806 motor. Bear in mind, above about 25 mph, your bike is poorly geared for pedaling that fast.

 

[steomi]

Again thanks dogman,

I have a question, I know because of my size you have been leaning me towards the c9 which I dont mind at all. I am not concerned to much with being pulled over here in WI they don't pay much attention to bicyclist lol. but I was wondering what about:

http://www.e-bikekit.com/shop/index.php?p=product&id=26&parent=0
Electric Bike Conversion Kit - No Battery

Product ID: EBK-K2807FR

Front or Rear Wheel: Front

Wheel Size: 26"

Throttle Type: Split-Twist

Upgrade Options: 3 Speed Switch

or am I better going off with what I have with the 2806 and the 48v 15 ah battery (same battery for either kit) yeah I know I am going back and forth on the battery, but hey I am a big guy and need a little pick me up sometimes lol

 

[joe tomten]

I commute all year round with a 48v 15ah ping on my xlyte 406. I really appreciate the speed I get w/ 48v, throttle down the whole way - highest gear (11toothrear , 52 tooth front). It cuts the 40 minute ~8 mile one way ride literally in half - to 20 minutes.

I also run the same battery on a tandem in the summer sometimes time with a 2807 hub - it's a little faster even than the xlyte 406.

I like the speed that 48v gives me cause it makes me capable (with pedelling) of keeping up with the traffic on a lot of the town roads.

 

[docnjoj]

Hi steomi
I would seriously consider a trike at this time. For large folks they take the weight a lot better than 2 wheels and if you get a recumbent the distance is less to fall if you do go over. Sun makes some good ones and they can be found on C/L for 3-400 dollars. Balance and falling become non-issues especially in winter. Just my 2 ohms.
otherDoc

 

[recumbent]

I also agree with the 48volt/15,amphr crowd, and a larger front sprocket to keep the bike going with little energy use on the flats.

 

[RICK]

If lots of weight consider John Rob Holmes (Holmes Hobby) to lace the motor into a quality rim with good spokes/nipples. In any case be sure to check/tighten/true spokes after a hundred miles or so.

I have 1800 miles on a 2807 with a Ping 48V 15 AH, cruises at 26+, goes through about .5 AH per mile. Wouldn't want to go slower..

Consider a good suspension seatpost - I'm using a Cane Creek Thudbuster. Back problems started after about 3 months of riding, fixed with the soft seatpost.

Consider putting on the biggest damn tires that you can.

Keep an eye on the rack and the whole battery support system.

Get a big mirror (like a Mirrycle).

As far as pedal only except on uphill, won't happen. You can pedal all the time anyway, you just go lots faster with the motor.

 

[fifthmass]

Hello all,
I Think I have what I will be getting from help with others on here. I am in Wisconsin (rain, snow, sleet, slop, you know all the good stuff :wink: ) and want to use it year round. I am looking more for distance so I know I will need to carry extra batteries (later on) along with charger (still need to find 5 amp portable) and a bike kit for repairs (already have ). I am a 5' 8" 250 - 300 lbs 40 year old man in HORRIBLE shape along with a bad knee. Will be using the throttle a lot at the beginning and as I get in better shape pedal more and more than just use the throttle for uphills (this is my goal ). Well here is what I am looking at and would like your opinion on it. Thanks again.

http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_nc.php
NC26_Fast Front Fast 26 inch Nine Continent Kit (2806 hub, 25A Infineon Controller, throttle, CA-DP) $435.00 USD
TorqArmRev3 NEW, Front Universal Torque Arm with double hose clamp. $28.00 USD

http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-2/lifepo4-lithium-ion-phosphate/Detail
48V 20AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack
SKU: LFP4802005001
PRICE: $598.00

or

http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-16/36V-30AH-V2.5-LiFePO4/Detail
36V 30AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack
SKU: LFP3603005011
PRICE: $738.00

Bike:
used Trek 820

Thanks Again,
Steve

Hi Steve and welcome!

When I started ebiking I was 235 lbs and am now at 195. I almost always pedal when I ride. You will lose weight if you contribute to the effort and the motor will flatten out every hill and eliminate headwinds. Light to moderate pedaling reduces energy consumption (In MY case, others will vary) from about 20-25 wh/mile (no pedal) to about 12-15 wh/mile and will add 2-3 mph to the motor only speed. Pedaling makes a massive difference in energy use and therefore range.

Buy the biggest battery you can securely mount and fully enclose in some container. The battery and its container should be readily removable (IMO). LifePO4 is the way to go for someone coming into this although many on these boards are getting into LiPo because of higher energy density.

The only downside to winter ebiking in my experience has been that it's COLDER because you are not exercising as hard as if you were on a conventional bike. The hands are the weak point. I have the best snowmobile mittens (NOT gloves) I could find and my hands still get cold below about 10-15 deg F. Throttle thumb always gets cold first. You may want to consider a twist throttle. The head is also critical to keep warm. I use a full fleece balaclava which works fine down to about 10 deg F. Wisconsin is a lot colder than Boston.

Good luck and be safe!

Take care,
Bill

 

[steomi]

Thank you everyone not only for the information but the support. I take each persons ideas into consideration. Each comment brings me so much closer to understanding what I will be looking at and getting my self into. So far I think the set up I am looking at is the C9 2807 front, the 48V 15AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack upgrading to 5A charger, Trek 820. Went to the bike store yesterday, liked the bike. I was thinking though. Do I get new for the warranties, or used cause for less $$. I know the Trek's are solid, but they told me if anything went wrong with the bike that I could just bring it in and they take care of it (Wheels and Sprockets). I will be getting 2 torque arms (always safe than sorry). Still have most of my safety equipment from 20 yrs ago; mirrors, lights, speedo, tool kit (need updating), and misc. things. I am getting stoked on this. can't wait till I get it all together and first (short trip) trip out. I really do appreciate you all for the help and guidance. It will be a good day when I learn more about this so I may do the same. (will be a while, but looking forward to it). I also was wondering if the bigger tires will go on a used 820. such as a 2.2 with out rubbing (back tire), also do I need to change the rim out going to a bigger tire. A lot has changed in 20 years lol. Thanks again everyone

 

[fifthmass]

Thank you everyone not only for the information but the support. I take each persons ideas into consideration. Each comment brings me so much closer to understanding what I will be looking at and getting my self into. So far I think the set up I am looking at is the C9 2807 front, the 48V 15AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack upgrading to 5A charger, Trek 820. Went to the bike store yesterday, liked the bike. I was thinking though. Do I get new for the warranties, or used cause for less $$. I know the Trek's are solid, but they told me if anything went wrong with the bike that I could just bring it in and they take care of it (Wheels and Sprockets). I will be getting 2 torque arms (always safe than sorry). Still have most of my safety equipment from 20 yrs ago; mirrors, lights, speedo, tool kit (need updating), and misc. things. I am getting stoked on this. can't wait till I get it all together and first (short trip) trip out. I really do appreciate you all for the help and guidance. It will be a good day when I learn more about this so I may do the same. (will be a while, but looking forward to it). I also was wondering if the bigger tires will go on a used 820. such as a 2.2 with out rubbing (back tire), also do I need to change the rim out going to a bigger tire. A lot has changed in 20 years lol. Thanks again everyone

I have a new Trek 820 and it should serve fine. I'd go new for the warrantee. It's an all steel frame which is what you want for the extra weight of an ebike. The stock rear wheel failed after about 5000 miles on my original build (also a Trek 820). You should replace the front suspension fork with a rigid Chromoly steel unit if you are going with a front hub motor. I got a Surly fork with a pair of Ampedbike torque arms, one on each side. The bike came new with 2.0 inch Bontrager tires. Seemed to be adequate clearance to go slightly wider on the tires.

Good luck.

Bill

 

[steomi]

Thank you Bill,
Which Surly fork would I be looking for, I see about 40 of them just doing a quick google. Would any of them work (from most expensive down to the dirt cheap ones), what should I look for when replacing anything on the Trek 820?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

[fifthmass]

Thank you Bill,
Which Surly fork would I be looking for, I see about 40 of them just doing a quick google. Would any of them work (from most expensive down to the dirt cheap ones), what should I look for when replacing anything on the Trek 820?

Thanks again,

Steve

Steve,

Here is what I used.

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar=pro___333222350524___82

Got it from Tree Fort Bikes. You'll need to cut the steerer tube with a standard plumbing tubing cutter and install a star nut inside the steerer tube about 3/4 inch down from the top. Also you will need to file off the ridges that are intended to hold a QR hub in place. You have to have an absolutely flat contact on the sides of the drop outs.

Measure twice cut once.

Good luck,
Bill

 

[steomi]

Thanks Bill.
Appreciate the info

 

[Evoforce]

If you are trying to save money bid for your battery on ebay.