Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

yup. works great.
do you want to order from lmx or direct from china?

for example the ASI controllers dont run with LMX motors. lightning mike "did" a solution with external halls. shame on ASI :D

nucular runs out of the box with that bitchy lmx motor.
 
Merlin said:
yup. works great.
do you want to order from lmx or direct from china?

for example the ASI controllers dont run with LMX motors. lightning mike "did" a solution with external halls. shame on ASI :D

nucular runs out of the box with that bitchy lmx motor.

I have a BAC2000 I bought direct from ASI....purely for the curiosity of learning the controller. They are a PITA to set up and get running on just about any motor, if you don't understand the "ASI way of doing things". After a steep learning curve, I now know the secret sauce and have yet to fail to get any motor to run well on my BAC2000. I've set up several inrunners (HLD, astroflight 3220, BOMA) and several outrunners (C80100, 12090, C80-160kv, 80-100, etc) and several hubs (QS205, random chinese no-name hubs, etc). If you don't care about halls, setting up the ASI is MUCH easier.

If anybody wants to send me their LMX..I'm up to the challenge of getting it to run on my ASI.
 
ERT/Alan havent success and beside of his "behavior" what i only know from internet posts hes doing nothing else then playing with ASI stuff.
so if he isnt able to get it running w/o external halls iam not sure if "the god" can do it :D

riding a "bike" without halls is pretty useless if you dont want to ride "sometimes" backwards :D
 
Hi electric god.
Do you have X1 motor? Would be very interesting to know how bac2000 works in comparison with Nucular.
 
I have Eaton APR48-3G with 54V output. Is it too high to charge 14S battery through motor?
 
Merlin said:
yup. works great.
do you want to order from lmx or direct from china?

for example the ASI controllers dont run with LMX motors. lightning mike "did" a solution with external halls. shame on ASI :D

nucular runs out of the box with that bitchy lmx motor.

Good to know thanks guys! Not 100% decided on where to get the motor yet - I'm sure if I buy from LMX direct it will be good quality though.

To be honest I wanted to use the QS 138 H but it's too wide for a 'bicycle' application - Suggestions welcome :wink:
 
Cheburator said:
I have Eaton APR48-3G with 54V output. Is it too high to charge 14S battery through motor?

You can change the Voltage easily.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66169

You can use a programmer or the resistor mod.
With the resistor mod you can increase the output to over 58V, so you can skip the coil charging method because it wastes quite a bit of electricity/efficiency.
 
Andrewol said:
Hi electric god.
Do you have X1 motor? Would be very interesting to know how bac2000 works in comparison with Nucular.

Does anybody have one of these mid-drive kits? Depending on the kit, this looks to be a pretty nice mid-drive.
I don't have one of the motors and never seen them anywhere, so if you have one, I'd give it a shot if you send it over.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/CYCMOTORLTD/photos/?ref=page_internal

My assumption however is that most people that by this will use the CYC controller too.
 
Chambers said:
Merlin said:
yup. works great.
do you want to order from lmx or direct from china?

for example the ASI controllers dont run with LMX motors. lightning mike "did" a solution with external halls. shame on ASI :D

nucular runs out of the box with that bitchy lmx motor.

Good to know thanks guys! Not 100% decided on where to get the motor yet - I'm sure if I buy from LMX direct it will be good quality though.

To be honest I wanted to use the QS 138 H but it's too wide for a 'bicycle' application - Suggestions welcome :wink:

ebikes.ca has lots of hub motor options for bikes.
Get on aliexpress and get to the QSmotor sales pages. They too have lots of hub motor options that will fit your design limits.

Probably the QS205 will fit your drop-outs.
 
ebikes.ca has lots of hub motor options for bikes.
Get on aliexpress and get to the QSmotor sales pages. They too have lots of hub motor options that will fit your design limits.

Probably the QS205 will fit your drop-outs.


Thanks for the suggestion but I am after a mid motor - Going to be running concentric to the pivot so cant be too wide..
Anyway that's enough clutter on this thread... :thumb:
 
Chambers said:
ebikes.ca has lots of hub motor options for bikes.
Get on aliexpress and get to the QSmotor sales pages. They too have lots of hub motor options that will fit your design limits.

Probably the QS205 will fit your drop-outs.


Thanks for the suggestion but I am after a mid motor - Going to be running concentric to the pivot so cant be too wide..
Anyway that's enough clutter on this thread... :thumb:

Good for you! I hate hubs in general...heavy, big, unsprung weight, etc. Best bang for the weight, size, cost and power density is an outrunner.
 
Never heard of that term, googling led me to this great article

https://www.electricbike.com/patricks-rc-mid-drive/
 
Since yesterday I'm also a proud owner of the 12F Controller :D
I know it has been posted already but following there are some pictures of the box and controller itself.

package.JPG


Be very careful with long knives as the display cable is unprotected (I nearly cut it)
open up.JPG

content.JPG


Sadly my hall connector was missing, but beside that it's great to get all the connectors needed to get it running. Neither my Kelly KLS nor my VESC6 came with anything besides the controller. :thumb:
accessoires.JPG


Thats what you see when you open the five screws on the backside of the display. Should be very clean and easy.
display connections.JPG


The size is much smaller than I expected. It made me indeed so nervous I googled the dimensions of the12F as I thought I accidently got the 6F :confused:

Here you can see it next to a VESC6 which is less than half the power.
VESC + Nucular_1.JPG
VESC + Nucular_2.JPG



The Nuc will be running the 60mm motor from LMX in a Pit-Bike that is currently under construction. Thread will follow.

If someone is interested I could take a video of the autodetection process of the motor as well as unloaded noise etc.
 
How does it look for the 24fet now?
I hope you will ask for options when the time comes to get it ready?

I have a hard time to decide if I want potted or not, I think it will help with water damage, vibration damage and it will help with heat from what you have reported.
And if something happens, it will still be possible to change mosfets or caps?
I understand that this controller has good protections, but I just blew some mosfets in a controller that is able to run with all phases in a dead short without damage :?
 
john61ct said:
Never heard of that term, googling led me to this great article

https://www.electricbike.com/patricks-rc-mid-drive/

The last video in this thread is a bit amusing.

An 80-100 outrunner running at 13kw...uhuh...that's just not possible...even dipped in liquid nitrogen I doubt it's possible. 5.5kw is doing really good. 6kw and they cook even with forced air cooling. I know...I've tried!
 
Don't worry it's probably just peak power. If you look at some of the videos from Hobbyking they will claim 13Kw 'power' with their RC watt meter instead of 13Kw peak.
 
eee291 said:
Don't worry it's probably just peak power. If you look at some of the videos from Hobbyking they will claim 13Kw 'power' with their RC watt meter instead of 13Kw peak.

IMHO, peak power is nearly completely irrelevant. You do that for like 1 second and if you stay there longer, stuff burns out. Who needs peak power for anything? You need continuous power for sure. AKA...what can I do for mile after mile every day all day long. Peak is like me pedaling and saying "Hey for 1 second I can make 5kw of power from my legs". This too is equally useless. What can I do with that for 1 second without also having several more seconds of the same power level? Not much if anything.

Peak power IMHO is 100% about bragging, not anything useful or practical.

Regarding the 80-100 outrunner motor size. it is possible to buy after market magnets that are much stronger, but after owning several of this size motors from various sources, they all have N35 magnets. Go ahead and throw 100kw into the motor. It won't matter. You can only pull on the magnets at their maximum strength and not more than that. More wattage, even peak is only useful up to the magnetic strength and then it's just pointless.
 
jameswalker said:
I received 2 * 12F controllers, but wont be until the weekend I can try it out.

you will like these controllers is my prediction.
 
ElectricGod said:
eee291 said:
Don't worry it's probably just peak power. If you look at some of the videos from Hobbyking they will claim 13Kw 'power' with their RC watt meter instead of 13Kw peak.

IMHO, peak power is nearly completely irrelevant. You do that for like 1 second and if you stay there longer, stuff burns out. Who needs peak power for anything? You need continuous power for sure. AKA...what can I do for mile after mile every day all day long. Peak is like me pedaling and saying "Hey for 1 second I can make 5kw of power from my legs". This too is equally useless. What can I do with that for 1 second without also having several more seconds of the same power level? Not much if anything.

Peak power IMHO is 100% about bragging, not anything useful or practical.

simply wrong.
peak power "peaks only" because your acceleration curve is not straight.
if you have peak power 2000w
or a bike with continues 1000w what you can ride mile after mile all day long, the 1000w bike will not be that quick as the "peak 2000w) bike.

on flat peak will only show for a split second. right. but on any hill peak fades to continue....(depends on how steep it is)

lets not talk about drag racing where peak means win.
lets not talk about jumps you hit with success (or not).

lets talk about....fun? peak makes fun. continue is something for commuting.

peak means nothing you can compare except of same conditions and bikes/riders. true....
but this is also true for continue...

let me repeat your sentence:

You do that for like 1 second ....

YES!...and again......and again.....and again :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
Please demonstrate a 80-100 running @13Kw uphill, I'll wait.
I have nothing against peak power it's just annoying when people leave out the fact that their motor did 13Kw for a fraction of a second.
I can also take a large controller and slap it on a small motor and say it did 15kw... for .5 seconds. :lol:
Now if it did a full minute or more then I'd be impressed. Hubmonster comes to mind but not the 80-100.

Simply because you misunderstood what we were talking about doesn't mean I'm wrong.

I'm not a dumbass :cry:
 
maybe hes talking with me?
if so, not sure why he talks about his 80-100 RC Motor?!
if so, why? because the peak discussion?

didnt know why we jump between extremes.
my QS205 do 100kw peak.........when i contact the battery wires to the controller :lol:


QS205 -> nominal 3kw - peak 20kw - 1minute.

i didnt talk about tiny RC motors. even if a small tiny rc motor peaks für some seconds 13kw nobody talks about 13KW CONTINUE UPHILL.

dont know if you are a dumbass...maybe just some noise between the ears....i can confirm: thats pretty normal to EV guys :mrgreen:
 
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