Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

My vehicle is 400kg it is not a fatbike. In speed mode no problem at 0rpm. On a fatbike in speed mode you will do a direct wheeling and your buttocks are touching ground.
The torque and torque mode + speed is done to avoid turning back on startup. A friend with a fatbike is very satisfied with the torque mode with his 12F.
 
Yes pitmix, but I always prefer to ride in torque mode. It feels more like a real motorcycle.

P.S. I forgot to mention, the fatbike has no pedals, it's a motorcycle disguised as a bike.
 
Don't worry, don't take an example of my installation because it's something very different from your bike. The torque mode is perfect for your bicycle, plus I think it's possible to customize the reaction of the engine at startup because there is a lot of adjustment possible.
 
The Adaptto also had many adjustments for the throttle, but it was still impossible to give it high torque at zero RPM :D
I edited my previous post, my "bicycle" is not a real one, it's a motorcycle.

I would like to have opinions of others who have the Nucular on an e-bike.
 
Very impressive, for a high-speed bike, but I'm rather more interested in the low-speed control of the motor, between 0 and 5 Kmh, to jump on big rocks, climb very steep rock faces etc.
Of course I need high-speed from time to time :lol:
 
Altair said:
Very impressive, for a high-speed bike, but I'm rather more interested in the low-speed control of the motor, between 0 and 5 Kmh, to jump on big rocks, climb very steep rock faces etc
Click to expand...
Me too, in fact 26" wheel DD hub standing starts facing uphill with 200kg of load is my baseline. Top speed of 25km/h would be fine.

QS line debating if I need to go stronger than QS205 up to the 273, heavy motor that.

 
Altair said:
PITMIX said:
What is problematic in torque mode is the lack of torque at 0 rpm because my vehicle is very heavy.
Click to expand...
That comment scares me a lot.
I was just about to place my preorder for a 12F. I'm going to use this on a trials fatbike, so I absolutely need full torque at zero RPM. And I always prefer torque mode.
I've been using the Adaptto in the past and hated it because it limited the low-speed torque.
Then I had a Kelly which was OK in that regard, but it had a slight delay between the time I opened the throttle, and when the motor began to turn. I hated that too.
Can someone confirm that the Nucular will not have these problems?
Click to expand...

If i give full throttle at standstill, my bike flips over.
24f, 500A phase and 300A battery. Torque throttle and a qs 205 50H 4t.

No problem to go slow, but you have to be careful with the throttle.

Edit, I saw you wanted the 12f. I don´t think there will be a problem with delay, but maybe not enogh phase amp.
 
I tried the torque mode is a little better but it does not solve my problem. I may have set the function f w too strongly. I will disable the FW to do tests.
If this change doesn't change anything it will mean that it is my installation have a problem.
Certainly a false contact somewhere.
 
j bjork said:
Edit, I saw you wanted the 12f. I don´t think there will be a problem with delay, but maybe not enough phase amp.
Click to expand...
I don't need tons of power for my bike, the reduction gearing is 9:1. The phase amps are at 120 I think. The 12F should be enough.
 
Its good ! I identified the problem :thumb:
The problem is present since I installed the back button.
So I unplugged it and no worries.:cool:
I guess when the contact is open it is not perfectly non passing. The controller is certainly too sensitive on this point.
This caused micro power cuts.
I guess I need to install a small resistor in series on the wire.
Vasili there may be a solution from the controller settings?
The controller works perfectly in acceleration torque, torque + speed and speed.
 
It is plugged into the controller with a wire of about 1m and a push button. I will try with a small capacitor thank you.
 
PITMIX said:
Ok thank you, I will try.
I'll keep you informed.
What is problematic in torque mode is the lack of torque at 0 rpm because my vehicle is very heavy.
Click to expand...

That's what I like about a speed throttle. Motor torque is full phase amps even at 0 RPM.
A speed throttle does have the effect of producing a less gentle start.
If your EV is over powered, low throttle is still full power so hang on!

Torque mode lets you adjust motor torque, but not motor RPM.
The effect is starting from a stop is gentle or harsh depending on throttle position.

I prefer a speed throttle, but I don't always want maximum torque.
The answer is the 3 way speed switch. I use the high setting for max everything and medium for less phase amps.
 
I haven't yet received my 3-positions switch but it is planned. I think it's possible to choose a different acceleration mode for each speed with version V0.7.9 but I have not tested yet. I noticed that in speed mode it's easier for me to get out of a rut. On the road the torque mode is great because if the wheels aren't blocked, it allows a smooth start. To come back to the problem I met I wonder if it doesn't come from the fact that my power terminal is very close to the connection of the son for the reverse. I will surely use a shielded cable for the inverting contact and make a Faraday cage for the 3 phase terminal block.
 
VasiliSk said:
PITMIX what is the total weight tat is powered by 24F? :D
Click to expand...

Yeah...that looks like a mini car or maybe a 3 wheeled enclosed bike thing.


Vasilli...new feature please.
Can you make the firmware work with the 3 speed switch where you can set a speed setting for torque throttle and another for speed throttle? PITMIX made a good point about smooth starts with torque throttle, but also needing speed throttle to get out of a rut. An "on the fly" switch change for throttle modes would be great. No one wants to go into the controller settings all the time to make this change. I'd probably set LOW to torque throttle for the reasons he expressed. Then Medium and High would be speed throttle. If this is already possible...sorry for stating the obvious.

PITMIX said:
To come back to the problem I met I wonder if it doesn't come from the fact that my power terminal is very close to the connection of the son for the reverse. I will surely use a shielded cable for the inverting contact and make a Faraday cage for the 3 phase terminal block.
Click to expand...

I use bullet connectors on all my large wires. They are no more RF shielded than your phase terminal block. I have never had issues with them causing interference with other nearby wires. I tend to run battery, phase and small signal wires side by side without problems. I do recommend covering those phase connections. I don't know what voltage you are running, but there is a LOT of current and voltage there. At a minimum when the motor is running, somebody touching them will get badly burned if they touch those posts. Worst case they get electrocuted.
 
The vehicle is my Avatar😀
About 350kg empty and more than 450kg with the engine the battery and me. Gear ratio of 8: 1, real speed not yet tested but I think 65km / h. 0 to 50km / h in 100m already tested.
 
I will inform you when I have done measurements with normal use.
For the moment I have only done very small tests on a few hundred meters. The controller does not heat up. The highest temperature I observed is
20 ° C😁
 
I did a test this morning for about 2km. The controller was set to speed 1.
90A battery and 125A phases, 48km/h.
The controller remained cold. 12 ° C and the engine also 14 ° C. My battery was close to the mini voltage so the controller reduced the battery power to 50A to prevent voltage drop. This function is great for going home without a break at the bms. :thumb:
 
https://cyclurba.fr/forum/621300/nNlectro-tuk-tuk-aixam-550t-mid-drive-qs-motor.html?discussionID=24924#msg621300
 
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