Peter's custom bikes

[peters]

Thanks! Nothing special, I wanted to use standard bike parts.
The BB is a Truvativ howitzer for 73mm BB shell and 56mm chainline by default. I moved the chainring on the outer side of the crankarm, so my chainline is ~62mm.
The frame width is 125mm, and there is about 15mm on both sides from the cranks.

 

[peters]

Hello, I did not update this thread for a while, here are the news & experiences:

The bike is up and running since November, but I did not use it in the winter. Until now I rode about 1000km.

Some data:
- weight is 56kg, a few kg-s more than I expected
- 29s1p, 15Ah Headway cells, 96V nominal, charged to 106V
- 42A battery current limit, just below the 3C continuous limit of the battery. The voltage drops to 85V at this current.
- 3.6kW battery output power, limited due to the battery
- just increased the phase current to 120A, until now it was set to 100A
- 70kph top speed (75kph when I lay on the handlebar..) with Schwalbe Crazy Bob. Slightly less with Kenda Nevegal offroad tires, maybe 65kph - not measured exactly yet.

I had to weld the rear shock mounting brackets to an upper position, more away from the pivot, because it was impossible to set the damping properly. Now it is much better, the leverage is around 2.7.
There was an issue with the spoke nipples in the rear wheel: some 4mm diameter nipples broke, possibly due to the bent spokes and the bad damping in the first times. Then I changed them to 5mm, they are ok now. The spokes are 13g, 4mm and 5mm nipples are available for this. Definitely a motorcycle rim, tires and spokes would be better for this weight and power, and also due to the large unsprung weight of the rear wheel.

Generally I'm happy with the bike (I just call it Star Destroyer ), but soon I'll start to fabricate a new, lower weight frame with more rounded corners that will hopefully look better

Some photos:







Display, controller and BMS with the firmwares are also my designs and builds, maybe I'll make some photos of the internals if I disassemble the bike the next time...

 

[peters]

Some new designs:

New version of the full suspension bike:

A rigid frame with 20" wheels for better hill climb:

I intend to build the rigid frame first, then maybe I'll make another variant of the suspension frame for 20" bicycle or 16-17" motorbike wheel.

 

[Samd]

Nice!

 

[peters]

New 20" wheel with paired hole spacing on the old HT motor, idea is from Justin's topic here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=59804

13g spokes with 4mm diameter nipples.
The spacing on the flange between the spoke heads is 12mm. Maybe 15-20mm would be better, because the spokes are crooked a bit (but far not as much as on my 1-cross 24" wheel).
I keep it as it is now, will modify only if spokes or nipples break.

 

[madm3chanic]

The frame:
View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1

holy shit i have been truly humbled, i apologise for my comments on my thread...your work on this frame really shows both great dedication and a lot of skill. the swingarm especially, that really is an aweful lot of welding.

that is a personal masterpiece and i hope it brings you many years of joy! definitely something to be proud of, i have seen many, many homebuilt frames in my years of building built that is up there with the best.

 

[peters]

Thanks for your comments!
That was a misunderstanding in your thread

 

[beast775]

Incredible first frame build,it has good lines.i still dig headways.

 

[GiantEV]

What tires are you planning to use? I use 16" Shinkos on my 20" rims and love them.

 

[peters]

What tires are you planning to use? I use 16" Shinkos on my 20" rims and love them.

I already ordered Schwalbe jumpin jack to try, then I'll see.

 

[peters]

Finally my second frame is finished, some photos are here. It took more time to build than I expected.
This frame, in fact, is an experiment to apply the monocoque concept for a hardtail bike. The geometry is based on a 18" XC mountain bike frame, but a few parameters are modified due to the small 20" wheels: BB is above the wheel axles, head tube angle is slightly flatter and the wheelbase is longer. Compatible with 26" suspension forks.
Tires are Vee Rubber 2.25-16 moped tires, because the Schwalbe did not arrive in time. The frame could fit a 2.75 or 3" wide tire, but the rims are not wide enough.

 

[madm3chanic]

Finally my second frame is finished, some photos are here. It took more time to build than I expected.
This frame, in fact, is an experiment to apply the monocoque concept for a hardtail bike. The geometry is based on a 18" XC mountain bike frame, but a few parameters are modified due to the small 20" wheels: BB is above the wheel axles, head tube angle is slightly flatter and the wheelbase is longer. Compatible with 26" suspension forks.
Tires are Vee Rubber 2.25-16 moped tires, because the Schwalbe did not arrive in time. The frame could fit a 2.75 or 3" wide tire, but the rims are not wide enough.

View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1

wow man, so much work! you got any work in progress pics? that sharp bend above the bottom bracket on the front triangle must have been very difficult to match up!

 

[peters]

wow man, so much work! you got any work in progress pics? that sharp bend above the bottom bracket on the front triangle must have been very difficult to match up!

Thanks! No work in progress pics, sorry. If you mean the internal plate around the seat tube, perpendicular to the side plates, that is made of one piece. I printed the flat pattern on paper (as for all plates), and also the orthogonal side view of the frame, then cut from metal a few mm larger piece with jigsaw, then bent to fit to the side plates, and finally grinded to size. Yeah I had to play with the bends for some time. Not matches up the drawings with 0.1mm accuracy, but ok for me. I had more problems with repairing the welding defects. I'm not an experienced welder, just patient.

 

[madm3chanic]

yep many sins can be covered with a mig welder and a grinder!

im guessing that rear triangle must be ridiculously stiff? iv never actually seen a full monocoque hardtail, but iv thought about it a few times in the past...if you put the rear wheel into the corner of a wall, hold one side of the handlebars and push down on one crank with your foot (when the crank is parallel with the floor, pointing to the back wheel), how much frame deflection do you get?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Nice work on both.

I'm not an experienced welder, just patient.

Wise Words to Work by.

 

[motomoto]

Man, I like how you just get the work DONE. There are so many of us out here that just screw around thinking about our project,
but just don't get anything finished. You just get in there and hammer it out until it is done. Hats off to you my friend.

You inspired me to get off my butt and do the next step on my project. Thank you.

 

[Whiplash]

Lol X2!!

 

[peters]

yep many sins can be covered with a mig welder and a grinder!

im guessing that rear triangle must be ridiculously stiff? iv never actually seen a full monocoque hardtail, but iv thought about it a few times in the past...if you put the rear wheel into the corner of a wall, hold one side of the handlebars and push down on one crank with your foot (when the crank is parallel with the floor, pointing to the back wheel), how much frame deflection do you get?

I'm not sure if I fully understand. When the crank is parallel with the floor, pointing to the back wheel, and I step on it, then it rotates a quarter turn backwards due to the freewheel. But when I do in a different way, e.g. pulling the brake, and stepping on the pedal, it is not easy to see the frame deflection, because the tire deforms, and the crank deflects towards the frame a little bit.
Also when the rear wheel is removed and I push the 2 dropouts towards each other by hand, then the they deflect much less then a normal aluminum bicycle frame for the same force. But it is not a surprise, I did not save with the metal, it is made of 1.5mm steel, and not optimized for weight in any way. I did not measure the frame weight alone, but the calculated weight of only the plates was 8.3kg, plus the tubes, dropouts and welds can be about 10kg altogether.
The weight of the bike as it is on the photos is 28.6kg (without batteries and circuits).

 

[peters]

Man, I like how you just get the work DONE. There are so many of us out here that just screw around thinking about our project,
but just don't get anything finished. You just get in there and hammer it out until it is done. Hats off to you my friend.

You inspired me to get off my butt and do the next step on my project. Thank you.

Thank you! I'm happy if my work can inspire others.
But for me it was not as easy as just to get it done, it took 6 weeks, 4-5 workdays a week, and I stopped for 2 weeks in the middle because I had enough of everything
My method is that at the beginning I make a long list of things to do, then take only one point at a time and important is that I don't think of the other steps until that one is done. Each step takes a half day, a day or a few days. Then sooner or later (usually later) all steps are done and then really can be glad to see when the thing is finished.

 

[Brake]

Nice job! Really clean lines. I like how everything is smoothed out, especially around the bottom bracket. Turned out just like your computer design too, which is really cool. Congratulations.

 

[peters]

Thanks!

 

[louis raaijmakers]

holly sh#t nice bike's!!
i will subscibe.

keep up the good work.

 

[RobertC]

Some data:
- weight is 56kg, a few kg-s more than I expected
- 29s1p, 15Ah Headway cells, 96V nominal, charged to 106V
- 42A battery current limit, just below the 3C continuous limit of the battery. The voltage drops to 85V at this current.

I am thinking of using Headway 40152 cells in a build, but the spec sheets and graphs claim nominal is 3.2 volts at 1C. Looking at the discharge graphs at 3C and 5C it looks like they sag to about 2.9 volts.

But your 85 v /29S = about 3.276 volts.

Is your voltage measurement accurate?

 

[peters]

85/29 = 2.931 according to my calculator. The measurement is ok, although not calibrated, but the error is max. 1..2%.

If you are considering to purchase batteries, I don't recommend headways, 18650 cells are better choice nowadays, and there are many of them. NMC chemistry is still safe, but its capacity is much higher.

 

[peters]

Some idiot drivers think they are racers and overtake a line of cars in my lane, from the front. Do they think there is enough room beside a cyclist or are they blind and don't even notice the cyclist at all? What can you do when a car is coming from the front in your lane, endangering your life instead of his own? Choose the roadside potholes, because the other option is a head-on collision.
The result of the fall is here, and I was lucky. Some bruises on my back and side also. And I'm very angry. The guy did not even stop, disappeared in a second!
Similar situations happen way too frequently here, I will buy a camera just to record and share them.




(edit: sorry for the disgusting photos. At least it is a reminder that bikes are not always good for health.)