Pouch or Cylindrical LifePo4

Joined
Mar 1, 2012
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My requirement for transport is low. Two miles round trip e-bike.

Without d-ought, I am fortunate for that. Thank God for parents & decent teachers, and for people online expressing their experiences. Thank you.

I have Headway Cylindrical 16ah now, on a 'commuter'. At most 2 miles per trip, 20 miles or so between for charges, mellow 20-30 mph street errands.

Would like LifePo4 to dump on off road for fun.

Is there a difference of dump between pouch & cylindrical because of physics, or because of makers.?

I like the A123 20ah pouch (flat) for my next purchase so far. (wrong, better)

Cost is not an issue. LifePo4 is just for dump & safe.

I am just doing this for fun. I don't use ICE other than lawn.

But, miss a lil' torque on my ass on dirt
 
When you say dump... you mean power, as in amps, right?

20AH A123s are seriously as good as you're going to get with lifepo4.
Pouch cells tend to be lighter and smaller per amp hour, versus cylindrical lifepo4 cells.

But A123 is the only formulation that really has good power output.
( Headways are both really heavy/large, and very overrated in power output.. )
 
neptronix said:
When you say dump... you mean power, as in amps, right?

20AH A123s are seriously as good as you're going to get with lifepo4.
Pouch cells tend to be lighter and smaller per amp hour, versus cylindrical lifepo4 cells.

But A123 is the only formulation that really has good power output.
( Headways are both really heavy/large, and very overrated in power output.. )

Hey thanks.
Yea, dump means like KTM 495 2-stroke full throttle in every gear.
What else is there.?
For me, 20 years ago. haha ole man.
Thanks.
 
e-bike-is-fun said:
I like the A123 20ah pouch (flat) for my next purchase so far. (wrong, better)
Each pouch weighs 480 grams. What voltage will you use? How many fun-dump miles do you want to go? :lol:

If not far, less than 10-15 miles, then the A123 already hard (protected) cells are the way to go. IMO. :wink: 26650 & cell_man will build you a professional pack.

Pouch cells will give you much more range, 20Ah range, but you will have to build the battery & protect it too... this adds significant weight too! :shock:
 
Well, i don't know what a 495CC 2 stroke feels like, but some people here have build electric bikes that make professional motorcycle riders nearly take a dump.. :lol:

If you want stupidly high power, i'd almost say skip the A123s entirely and go straight to nanotech lipo.. but are you looking to build an electric motorcycle, or bicycle?
 
Yea, LifePo4 dump of 'amps' with some kind of durability.
Seems to me electrontrons like a more straight route.
XR-75,CR-125,Bultaco-360,KTM-495, 3 Female babies.
Guess who won.?
 
neptronix said:
Well, i don't know what a 495CC 2 stroke feels like, but some people here have build electric bikes that make professional motorcycle riders nearly take a dump.. :lol:

If you want stupidly high power, i'd almost say skip the A123s entirely and go straight to nanotech lipo.. but are you looking to build an electric motorcycle, or bicycle?
My use has been 1-2 miles for necessity. That's covered.
Yes, otherwise is to run like a KTM. One minute or 20.
Just what is better.? Pouch or rounds.?
Right now I use 16ah Headway rounds...
They are good.
 
For real performance, most of us go straight to Hobby King for RC lipo packs. For real zip, you want some real voltage, 72v minimum. So you may want to keep the weight and volume down by carrying a smaller than 20 ah pack. If you cross the 100v line, 20 ah pouches are going to get downright big, heavy, and cumbersom to carry on a bike.

The RC lipo has it's hazards, but you are a big boy now, not a careless teen. Just follow some basic rules and your RC lipo won't burn the house down. Since it's just a fun bike, taking a minuite or two more to remove the batts from the bike to charge and store in a bit safer place is not going to be a big deal. But on the flip side, using 50c or larger RC lipo, you can have your pack as small and light as 5 ah. Sounds like not much, but at 24s thats 360 wh. You want that dirt ride to be as light and bike like in handling as possible, while still having 3000w or more of horsepower.

Oh, and btw, they are pouch cells. About the shape of a stick of butter, but bigger.
 
dogman said:
For real performance, most of us go straight to Hobby King for RC lipo packs. For real zip, you want some real voltage, 72v minimum. So you may want to keep the weight and volume down by carrying a smaller than 20 ah pack. If you cross the 100v line, 20 ah pouches are going to get downright big, heavy, and cumbersom to carry on a bike.

The RC lipo has it's hazards, but you are a big boy now, not a careless teen. Just follow some basic rules and your RC lipo won't burn the house down. Since it's just a fun bike, taking a minuite or two more to remove the batts from the bike to charge and store in a bit safer place is not going to be a big deal. But on the flip side, using 50c or larger RC lipo, you can have your pack as small and light as 5 ah. Sounds like not much, but at 24s thats 360 wh. You want that dirt ride to be as light and bike like in handling as possible, while still having 3000w or more of horsepower.

Oh, and btw, they are pouch cells. About the shape of a stick of butter, but bigger.

Why 72 volt min.?
I was thinking 60 volt on this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_CA120_70_Brushless_Outrunner_100cc_eq_.html
made up to detach to a bike, trike, or 4 wheel sled.
Just maybe 5 max mile range per charge. But 'quick'.
It'd be the 'fun' one, so maybe Lipo is best to use though.
 
60 v is better than 48v, but generally it takes 20s lipo, 72v to join the 40 mph club.

So yeah, 72v. It depends a lot too, on what pack you choose. If you buy 5s packs, your voltage choices are 10s- 36v, 15s- 50v, and 20s 72v. If you pick 6s packs, you have choices of 12s 44v, 18s 66v, or 24s 88v.

Go for the lipo, and just learn to use it safely. Your short ride makes it dumb to tote around a huge 20 ah pack. You could run with a superlight 5 ah pack easy. 15 ah less would be a LOT cheaper as well.
 
Beings off ice now for 6+ years, independent sole-proprietor for 12 years prior as a USA business.
All years using ICE, since 1978, I decided to 'opt out'.
Not because of 'global warming' or 'USA troops in the Middle East.
(Damn, I am more selfish than that, and I know it, I know that of myself)
I use electric because does not make any reason for Our young men/women die & kill others.
What a sorry 'reason'. "Providing USA energy".
Who is in control of this Earth.?
Assholes.....
 
I suspect battery choice will be the least of your problems.....you may want to rethink your motor choice.
I am not aware of anyone who has yet built a bike with that CA120 motor, and a high power controller to suit will also be a difficult find. :?
If you are serious for power ( a 495 KTM = 100kW. ? ) then you will need to be looking at the brushed Agni/ Eteck motors or the big Goldenmotors like Luke is using for his fun.
These are proven high power drive systems when used with reputable controllers.
 
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