I get nothing on eBay when I search with the above number or the number in your previous post.john61ct said:Also # 124046844135
nickceouk said:I get nothing on eBay when I search with the above number or the number in your previous post.
Not very safely at dozens of kWPunx0r said:10min charge (6C) can be achieved on LiCO cells - just look at the RC world.
Not all foldable bikes are flimsy and feeble :Punx0r said:Ride a folding bike with a 25kg+ battery? Nope!
Ride a folding bike long distance? Nope!
10min charge (6C) can be achieved on LiCO cells - just look at the RC world.
john61ct said:Not very safely at dozens of kWPunx0r said:10min charge (6C) can be achieved on LiCO cells - just look at the RC world.
Nor conducive to cell longevity
john61ct said:nickceouk said:I get nothing on eBay when I search with the above number or the number in your previous post.
Maybe because you're trying on a Euro site rather than eBay.com?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=124046844135&_trksid=m5467.l1311
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=143034247371&_trksid=m5467.l1311
nickceouk said:Ride a folding bike long distance? Nope!
...
and Street AC/DC recharging in 40mins
...
As to 25kg+ battery it's not a deal breaker on its own ...
I said nothing about battery type, my points are true no matter what LI battery, LTO is the only chemistry where longevity is unaffected by high charging C-rate.Punx0r said:You don't have to buy RC cells - they're just the cheapest and most readily available.
TBH the price of 6C-capable cells is not the most serious drawback in this whole proposal...
john61ct said:Glad to hear you're getting realistic, dropping the 10-min charging in this case.
If the light weight and folding portability is important, start out with say a pair of packs mounted so they're easy to swap out.
Then after you've logged a few thousand miles, got all the other issues sorted, you'll be in a position to make more informed judgment calls about adding (even) more weight.
Punx0r said:nickceouk said:Ride a folding bike long distance? Nope!
...
and Street AC/DC recharging in 40mins
...
As to 25kg+ battery it's not a deal breaker on its own ...
25kg (by the time it's built into a sturdy pack you're looking at ~30kg) on a bike frame is a lot. Before commiting to something like that I really would strap a bag of sand or bricks to your frame or on the rear rack, take a ride and see how the bike handles at speed to ensure you're not going to find the thing flexing all over the place/wheelie-ing/death-wobbling.
40mins charge time = much more doable with readily available, relatively energy-dense li-ion cells
Remember, reducing the voltage by 1/3 , also reduces the Whr capacity (and range) by 1/3 !Switching chemistries to NMC cells(32650 at 7.5ah) means that 45ah will be about 12kgs(lowering my voltage to 48v while testing too 13s6p.........
nickceouk said:What's your current setup like?
How do you go about charging?
Is that because the Nucular is true FOC?John in CR said:dual 12F Nucular controllers on my 98kg workhorse scooter. The perfect throttle control and variable regen on it makes the others unpleasant to ride in comparison
john61ct said:Sounds like a great setup!
Feedback from anyone in the below most welcome
Is that because the Nucular is true FOC?John in CR said:dual 12F Nucular controllers on my 98kg workhorse scooter. The perfect throttle control and variable regen on it makes the others unpleasant to ride in comparison
Are these features / phrases
"direct access to the halls and phases"
"phase current control"
"hall delay/advance"
"current sensor on each phase connection, directly measure amps for each phase"
all synonymous with true FOC?
From the Nucular thread:
> Nucular controllers use shunts on the battery side and some math to calculate phase amps.
Does this imply **not** not controlling as per some of those above phrases?
I'm currently figuring that multiple motors 2WD is the way to satisfy my heavy-cargo / mountain roads need for highest possible torque especially at lower rpm before considering gearing.
Is the biggest Nucular the best (or at least an excellent) approach?
What type hub motors would suit best? Looking at QS maybe 273, or 205 if lighter is better
Would it be better to have the front & back hubs match each other, or does this controller take care of the torque sync'ing well enough they don't need to?
Gravel roads, scrub, desert and forestry tracks, badly surfaced roads, to me means 20" will be too small, so 24-26" outside diameter? Thinking fatties, at least 2.5" tires?John in CR said:What motor to use really depends on how small a diameter tire you can live with.