Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Everything is finalized in my order. Will not be built until next month.

I'm going to get the removable foot peg option
10mm cut head tube on top only
skid plate will be discussed later
ordered both seat options
165mm dropout width

The color I got is the exact match and sticker color of the silver Qulbix bike they have in the advertisements and videos.


I got my batteries coming to me in the mail right now and will hopefully fit 240 3500MAH cells which will give me a continuous amp output of 120amps at 20S, which is a lot of power considering I never turned up my current bike more than 85 battery amps.

Will use my cromotor and later upgrade to a lighter MXUS in the rear to hopefully shave off around 8 to 10 lbs of weight in the rear.

Going to pull lots of components off my current raptor bike to save money. But that is OK because the Q76R makes my old raptor 165 obsolete for many reasons.

I'm hoping this to be one amazing build when I'm done. Still hoping I can make this bike to be 30lbs (14kg) less in weight and have 30% more battery capacity with the same power as my old bike. All this with a frame thickness that is reduced from 6.5 inches (165mm) to a nice narrow 3 inches (76 mm).
 
Finally the price is now good for a great product!
This is still a best diy frame (price:quality).

Added to my wishlist, have to finish my other bikes first :oops:
 
Hi guys,
in the meantime I´m waiting for my frame, I´m looking for a 19'' aluminum moped RIM (36 holes), does anybody know any place in Europe to buy them?? i found it in steel, but nothing in aluminium...
 
You can get them from holmes hobbies, http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-19x1.6-Rear-Ebike-and-Moped-Rim.html
Those are 19" x 1.6" rims and are lighter then the more common 19 x 1.85 aluminum rims.

If you look around holmeshibbies look for 1.4" width as well. IIRC there was some talk of him stocking them as well. Those will be even lighter.
For a few $ extra he will even calculate what kind of spokes will work with your motor/hub and rim combo. That way you avoid costly mistakes. Been there done that :oops:
 
The main issue with homes hobbies is they are in USA (rim + VAT + Customs :? ), and I´m looking in Europe. Some old moped in Europe had those size rims (second hand it´s another choice), but most of them are steel (19x1.60) and I would like less than 1.60, 1.40 would be perfect for the mxus 3000 v2. For now i bought some 130mm spokes in 2.9mm and 90 degrees, for testing, but i need a RIM :D
 
Maybe if you search for motocross rims rather then moped? Or motorcycle?
1.4" wide is a rare width to come by, likely custom orders?
 
Yes, you´re right, 1.4 is rare width.... I found 19x1.5 in a second hand site, so probably i will buy it... Thanks for helping...
 
Offroader said:
Everything is finalized in my order. Will not be built until next month.

I'm going to get the removable foot peg option
10mm cut head tube on top only
skid plate will be discussed later
ordered both seat options
165mm dropout width

The color I got is the exact match and sticker color of the silver Qulbix bike they have in the advertisements and videos.


I got my batteries coming to me in the mail right now and will hopefully fit 240 3500MAH cells which will give me a continuous amp output of 120amps at 20S, which is a lot of power considering I never turned up my current bike more than 85 battery amps.

Will use my cromotor and later upgrade to a lighter MXUS in the rear to hopefully shave off around 8 to 10 lbs of weight in the rear.

Going to pull lots of components off my current raptor bike to save money. But that is OK because the Q76R makes my old raptor 165 obsolete for many reasons.

I'm hoping this to be one amazing build when I'm done. Still hoping I can make this bike to be 30lbs (14kg) less in weight and have 30% more battery capacity with the same power as my old bike. All this with a frame thickness that is reduced from 6.5 inches (165mm) to a nice narrow 3 inches (76 mm).
Click to expand...

Hi offroader, I am really looking forward to seeing your build. The frame width seems to be close to a normal bicycle. I have never owned the 165mm frame, so I can't speak of the drawbacks of such a thick frame, but I can imagine it would feel awkward to pedal. However, I am curious how you can fit a big/powerful controller on such a narrow frame. Do you have any controller in mind? Most controllers seem to be 4-5 inch in width.

If Qulbix or anyone would post a picture of the loaded battery compartment along with the controller mounted, it would really be very useful to folks like me.

Either ways, this is really a great initiative by Qulbix to fill the void for folks who would like to pedal as well.

Thank you.
 
sonnetg said:
Hi offroader, I am really looking forward to seeing your build. The frame width seems to be close to a normal bicycle. I have never owned the 165mm frame, so I can't speak of the drawbacks of such a thick frame, but I can imagine it would feel awkward to pedal. However, I am curious how you can fit a big/powerful controller on such a narrow frame. Do you have any controller in mind? Most controllers seem to be 4-5 inch in width.

If Qulbix or anyone would post a picture of the loaded battery compartment along with the controller mounted, it would really be very useful to folks like me.

Either ways, this is really a great initiative by Qulbix to fill the void for folks who would like to pedal as well.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Sonnetg, there is a drawing for the Q76 frame opening on their website. Check out THIS POST for a visio file that I made with 18650 honeycomb arrangement.

As noted by Qulbix, the frame is skinny and an Adaptto controller just slightly sticks over the sides of the frame with mounted on the belly (hence their controller guard that sticks out in a hexagon shape (also can be seen in Qulbix's materials posted). If you are worried about aesthetics, I would say, leave the controller guard off, and if you really wanted to, paint the controller case to match your frame.
 
If your using a cycle analyst v3, no real reason to use adaptto (other than battery management).. will be using a Grinfineon one with mine.
Something teeeells me we should probably start a discussion thread as theres a couple going at the moment including the sale thread.
 
Lurkin said:
If your using a cycle analyst v3, no real reason to use adaptto (other than battery management).. will be using a Grinfineon one with mine.
Something teeeells me we should probably start a discussion thread as theres a couple going at the moment including the sale thread.
Click to expand...

You sure? I'm thought Grinfineon were not sine wave (huge difference if you have used both types)? Adaptto has much better interface, etc. For this application, I would say "no real reason" could mislead folks.

I'd like to see a high power Grin Phaserunner and then your statement becomes pretty tough to argue with!

Cheers to progress boys!
 
Mammalian04 said:
Sonnetg, there is a drawing for the Q76 frame opening on their website. Check out THIS POST for a visio file that I made with 18650 honeycomb arrangement.

As noted by Qulbix, the frame is skinny and an Adaptto controller just slightly sticks over the sides of the frame with mounted on the belly (hence their controller guard that sticks out in a hexagon shape (also can be seen in Qulbix's materials posted). If you are worried about aesthetics, I would say, leave the controller guard off, and if you really wanted to, paint the controller case to match your frame.
Click to expand...


Thanks Mamalian04, I did see the visio drawing, but missed the controller part. I am not a huge fan of adaptto, but may have to source a micro-controller of some sort. I would hate to have a 18 FET infenion controller sticking out on a such a slick design. Seems like it could be possible to tuck in a Phase Runner controller in the battery compartment though..

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/controllers/c-phaserunner.html
 
I do like the Phaserunner and have plans to use it in a MidDrive application if we can get it smoothly setup for a LightningRods mid-drive.

For the Q76, I have a QS 205 50H planned and 40A continuous / 80 Peak of the Phaserunner it is a little on the low power side for my personal tastes. For that one, I am slapping on an Adaptto 10KW Max-E. It BARELY sticks over the side so I think it will be ok. Handlebars will prevent it from touching the ground in a crash.

However, the Phaserunner would probably pair up nicely with a MXUS 3000. I might just give that a shot on my Flux Beta with MXUS 5T.
I am have a mid-Drive Q76 in the works. Mike from LightningRods and I are going to come up with something creative for it and a Phase Runner or Kelly Sinewave will probably power it.

Exciting stuff!


Lurkin said:
:oops: Talk about a brain fart! Sorry guys. Coffee time I think...
Click to expand...
No sweat Lurkin, I have never owned a Grininfion so I wasn't sure myself. They could be the BombDiggity, however, I think the Grin Phaserunner is the up and comer. A little more juice from it and a user friendly interface and Adaptto better watch out. The thing that sets Grin apart in my mind is their connection to the English speaking community. Adaptto might be doing the same with Russians but the Russian population is a much smaller segment of the market. Alexx has been doing an amazing job keeping Adaptto progressing for our active ES community and the read only users that use it for research. That being said, they don't do much in the way of customer engagement directly. Grin seems to be the complete opposite and takes ideas (hopefully only the good ones) and incorporates them into something practical and shares the research results of why that idea is good (or bad). Either way, I am just stoked to see development from all of these really bright guys and will support each of them with business if I can find a use for their products (sometimes I have to make up a use just to try their cool stuff)!
 
Mammalian04 said:
I do like the Phaserunner and have plans to use it in a MidDrive application if we can get it smoothly setup for a LightningRods mid-drive.

For the Q76, I have a QS 205 50H planned and 40A continuous / 80 Peak of the Phaserunner it is a little on the low power side for my personal tastes. For that one, I am slapping on an Adaptto 10KW Max-E. It BARELY sticks over the side so I think it will be ok. Handlebars will prevent it from touching the ground in a crash.

However, the Phaserunner would probably pair up nicely with a MXUS 3000. I might just give that a shot on my Flux Beta with MXUS 5T.
I am have a mid-Drive Q76 in the works. Mike from LightningRods and I are going to come up with something creative for it and a Phase Runner or Kelly Sinewave will probably power it.

Exciting stuff!
Click to expand...

That is Exciting indeed. I am really curious on how the itty-bitty Phaserunner would perform. I haven't decided on the motor for my next build, but it probably will be a MXUS.

Good luck with your new and exciting projects.
 
Drew up my battery pack I will use on my Qulbix Q76R using 240 NCR18650GA cells. This should offer some serious range and power, and also be very lightweight for it's size.

I did a lot research into this design to equally move the current through all of the cell, in this odd shaped pack which uses most of the available frame opening space.

It had to use a combination of nickel plates and 16AWG wires to move the current equally through the cells.
 
That's a lot of soldering. Are you thinking of soldering before spot welding?

If it would be helpful, I can try cleaning up the photo in Visio. Just let me know.
 
Mammalian04 said:
That's a lot of soldering. Are you thinking of soldering before spot welding?

If it would be helpful, I can try cleaning up the photo in Visio. Just let me know.
Click to expand...


That is a good question and I am still thinking about it. I heard soldering can really overheat and kill the cells. Supposedly soldering between two cells is OK.

That being all said I am leaning towards just soldering the wire before welding the tabs down to play it safe. This way I can take my time and make sure to really get a good solder connection and not worry about dripping solder onto a cell.

Thanks for the help cleaning it up, I just made this as a rough draft and still may make minor improvements with how I place the nickel tabs. You can see I kept nickel tab usage to a minimal because it is only necessary to send the current to the copper wire and then a small tab to keep all the cells connected to each other for balancing.

What is amazing with this pack is that it is 3KW capacity and weighs only 25lbs. My current raptor has 2.3KW and weighs 35lbs using 6s 20c lipo packs. That is a very big difference. Both packs have a continuous amp rating of well below what I will use. The only thing I don't know is how much more voltage sag I will get with my 3KW pack as it will sag more than my heavier 2.3KW pack.
 
Lurkin said:
Your organisation is very impressive Offroader! 8)

Which cells are you using?
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm going to use Sanyo NCR18650GA cells, which have 3500MAH capacity per cell. These are the highest capacity and I believe the best rated 3500 MAH cells you can get but the only issue is they can't put out many amps per cell. Each cell is rated and tested for 10 amp continuous.


This pack I built is rated for 120 battery amps continuous. At 20S with sag I should see around 70 volts * 120 amps = 8,640 watts of power.

I believe I can still get a lot more power out of the pack if I wanted for short duration like during acceleration, maybe I can push each cell to 15amps for 5-10 seconds during acceleration? maybe I can see upwards of 13,000 watts of power for shorter bursts.

But power really isn't an issue, on my current raptor I have my Max-E set for 85 battery amps at 18s, so I am pushing around 6KW of power and that is a lot of power.
 
Why the qs v2 and not the hubmonster? Qs v2 is almost 10% less efficient than the hubmonster (94%) and only 50mm stator vs 60mm.

Hubmonster slightly heavier at 15.6kg but worth the addded weight
 
BoomerChomsi said:
I have a question: you can mount a normal wheel at rear instead of a hub motor?
Click to expand...

Yes, why not? Where are you going to put the motor?



cwah said:
Why the qs v2 and not the hubmonster? Qs v2 is almost 10% less efficient than the hubmonster (94%) and only 50mm stator vs 60mm.

Hubmonster slightly heavier at 15.6kg but worth the addded weight
Click to expand...

I guess this depends on what you are after with the bike. Personally I want to make my Q76R as light as possible so I will be using an MXUS hubmotor that weighs 8.9 kg, and may even shave some steel off of the magnet ring it to make it around 8KG. This MXUS motor is almost as powerful as a cromotor or QS 205, but 4kg lighter.

The QS 205 is getting a little ridiculous now at 12.9kg.

The hubmonster at 15.6kg is very heavy, I guess it would be fine if you are driving mostly on the street, but using that heavy hubmotor offroad probably is too heavy. Even with my 12kg cromotor, when I ride over stuff the rear gets thrown up violently because of the weight of the rear wheel.


With all that said I would think the best motor choice right now is the MXUS, now they are making a new version of this with larger phase wires from the factory so now it is even better.

I see your point about the efficiency if it is really 10% better, but I'm not willing to make the tradeoff with weight, I actually want to go even lighter than a QS and cromotor for the rear. The other thing is can I even use a single Max-E controller to use it? It seems that I may need to use two controllers also with the hubmonster?
 
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