Rapture! by Dusty Donnay

[SilverSurfer]

Yes, I been into a strong headwind and dang its a push! I am going to consider some options for aerodynamic solution, but it has to look very professional. On the streets lots of folks think I bought it this way because its not very "DIY" looking. I like the idea of cylinders some, easy to come by, and in polished aluminum, it would bling like chrome. Or maybe an added fairing to the boxes I got. thanks for the ideas. in this stage, every idea has potential. SS

SS,

Not only are you forcing those 2 flat surfaces through the wind, but at the back you have a vacuum that is pulling reward. If you ever ride into headwinds the effect of those flat surfaces would be huge, and with no wind I guarantee it's costing you over 1mph in top speed. The bike is so cool, I'm thinking of copying it.

Something nice and easy could work, because since that chainguard is dead straight, you can get away with a flat top and bottom. Try it with posterboard to check out the look. 3 ideas are:

1. Use a piece of larger diameter pvc pipe, or sheet plastic or metal to make a half cylinder to simply round the front and back. If you make them a bit longer than the ammo boxes are high and a sheet of something thin to cover the sides, then you could easily straighten out the slightly off angle of the boxes.

2. Better aero than just both rounded could be accomplished with a long piece of sheet aluminum or plastic. Just rivet or glue the 2 ends together face to face to form the rear point. Put it over the ammo boxes and attach with the rounded end in front. The top and bottom would make it form the perfect teardrop shape, as well as give you storage space with a flip up top. Using sheet aluminum you could add little weight and might not even need to paint it.

3. Similar to number 2, but just make the side closest to the bike flat by using something like a piece of plywood. Then use sheet AL, plastic, or even very thin plywood to bend around the ammo box.

 

[John in CR]

I know you're going to do it justice. It sounds like you're going to do something better than whatever half-assed thing that I would do just to get the aero. I couple of sheets of posterboard would make mocking something up to see what she'll look like. Tail lights ala those old cadillacs with the big fins would be really slick. Take pics of the process, because it's something others will want to emulate.

John

 

[SilverSurfer]

finally got some good lighting! This is that 18smd LED in the bates housing. Rode it home last night with it. Its not as good as some of the better off road lighting systems, but the pattern is nice and wide, pretty full feild, though not very bright, I felt comfortable on the street with it. Definitly more visible to other drivers! Good eneough for now, but I think Im going to get one of the monster panels and rig up a mount for it in that light shell. I need more lumins and using leds is so energy effiecient! When I hooked that light up to my lab power supply it drew 0.16 amps! SICK! Id give up a whole amp and a half if I could get ten times the light!!!
The new side mirror came from Veitnam. Very stylish! My veitnamese friend says he knows the people who make that, they just up road from his old home! LOL Got blue glass in the mirror.....ill get a pic of that too.

OOOPS! Wiggelly shot! Sorry.

cant see the blue too well, its nice.

couple more of the mirror since the one is fuzzzzzy.

 

[SilverSurfer]

this is 60 bucks, 3,000 lumins,

this is 120 bucks, 6,500 lumins,

They claim heat is an issue. normally halogen bulbs put out a mega load of heat, so Im sure the housing can handle it, but the chip. put a little fan in the housing maybe? If i use the bigger chip, will certainly get more heat. will 3,000 lumins be eneough finally? or will I just wish I had gotten the 6,500 lumins? arrgghhhh!

 

[Hyena]

It depends on how truthful their rating is. I have a 900 lumen P7 that draws about 2 amps and if the smaller one really is 3x as bright as that you'll be laughing. I doubt it will be though. The other thing is how well your reflector will focus and throw the light. You may end up with a lot of bright light at close range but no throw. That's good for being seen but not so good for seeing yourself - especially with the sort of speeds you'll be doing with your setup.
For general night riding in built up areas you'll probably be OK, but if there's no other sources of lighting around you probably won't feel comfortable belting along at 30mph+ with the odd pot hole or obstruction that could jump out at you

 

[SilverSurfer]

Well..... KAPLEWEY! The golden motor is toast! There will be a rewind portion of this thread dedicated to her resurection! Looking at ceramic coated mag wire! Good to 1000 degrees F~! "If you wind it better, it wont blow!" Expect to have delta wye on the bike by tomarrow night! Not getting any more photos right now cause its at home in pieces and my pro camera is here at work.

looked at some videos on you tube over the many high watt/lumen emitters and the light they put out. Bought a 30 watt emitter, and a heat sink. Going to do some creative lighting, that will be documented here in the build thread too.

While I have everything apart Im also reconfiguring my battery bays. using gorilla tape to make the batteries single units so they are easier to in and out the boxes. Really needed to do that!

No progress yet on - USB/TTL for the 18FET board.

Got Doc Wattson Meter comming to perfect shunt calibration and metering of CA.

 

[Hyena]

Damn, how did you kill it ?
Too much time in delta pulling max current ?

 

[AussieJester]

Dang! Dusty f*cked the frock :-( Ceramic wire WTF never even heard of that before
does it come in various AWG does it Dusty? Hope the rewind goes well anywayz mate
boring pain in the ass job that is i tellz ya...never again for me

KiM

 

[SilverSurfer]

No, the delta hub is a 9C, I blew a Golden Motor 48v 1000w. It will be delta/wye when Im done with it, and hopefully blowproof! LOL I actually blew it through the regen circuit. On an infineon 12 fet 72v 45a. Think thats toast too! HELP!!! LOL I think steveo repairs those, or someone here does, gonna get my business!

Damn, how did you kill it ?
Too much time in delta pulling max current ?

 

[SilverSurfer]

boring but the chance to really do it right for one hub! heres the wire
http://www.ceramawire.com/product.html check the specs! Awsome!

Dang! Dusty f*cked the frock :-( Ceramic wire WTF never even heard of that before
does it come in various AWG does it Dusty? Hope the rewind goes well anywayz mate
boring pain in the ass job that is i tellz ya...never again for me

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

On an infineon 12 fet 72v 45a. Think thats toast too! HELP!!! LOL I think steveo repairs those, or someone here does, gonna get my business!

P.M Lyen if he can't repairz it he can definitely sell you a new Lyen Edition Infineon for a good price!

KiM

 

[Hyena]

Does the motor spin / roll freely with the with controller disconnected ? You may have just blown the fets in the controller and not killed the motor.
Have you got a spare controller you can try ?

 

[Dee Jay]

Clean and Classy!

What's that box under the controller? Is the controller water proof?

 

[SilverSurfer]

The motor does still spin, I pedaled that heavy sled 6 miles! I do have a spare of everything. My spare controller is my 18FET 72v 65a Lyens , I hooked it up, and couldnt get go. She actually acted like the phase wires were out of sync. But I didnt switch them because I know my wiring to be right for infineon type controller with I ASSUMED Lyens is wired the same. I suppose i could try to switch the wires around and check it out, but I have the spare hub too, delta/wye 9 continent. So I almost have that on, then I was going to rewind the old golden anyway, I have wanted to rewind that hub with super high tech wire and delta/wye configuration since I first learned about the delta/wye factor! I figure these chinese mfg's are trying to save money, if money didnt matter, how bad a$$ a hub could be built. So I want to try to create the best mouse trap in the way of a hub motor. I use teflon insulated hook up wires from aerospace industry 200c degrees, now Im gonna wind it with ceramic enameled mag wires from nuclear reactor industry to wind it 537c degrees. Then Im gonna find ceramic bearings. My sleeving is good for 600c degrees. Im really excited about the potential of this project. A hub motor virtually indestructable! Havent figured out indestructable hall sensor solution yet. I used teflon wires to hook them up, but I know I want to do something better. maybe even advance the sensor and install a digital delay to adjust timing. God that sounds good! Who makes the worlds best hall sensors? The search is on! LOL By the way, sliding those teflon wires in the axle was a cake walk! Them babies was slipperier than... nice! SS

Does the motor spin / roll freely with the with controller disconnected ? You may have just blown the fets in the controller and not killed the motor.
Have you got a spare controller you can try ?

 

[SilverSurfer]

The box under the controller is just a junction box. A nice place for all the connectors to meet, keyed switch for ignition, toggle for lights, 72v/12v converter for lights and relays. And in the new longer 18FET box, it actually holds the relays themselves. My Delta/Wye is externally relayed. That 12FET was never sealed, the 18FET going on now is silicone sealed. SS

Clean and Classy!

What's that box under the controller? Is the controller water proof?

 

[Hyena]

Unless you're the bionic man your motor is probably ok if you were able to pedal it and all those SLAs 6 miles!
Sounds like your controller went and your other controller uses different hall/phase wire combinations. Just because they're both infineons doesn't necessarily mean they'll be wired the same inside.

Your bake proof hub rewind sounds interesting! I agree your halls will probably then give you trouble. Maybe you could find a high powered sensorless controller ?

 

[Knuckles]

check motor hall sensors.

maybe motor ok, controller ok, hall(s) are blown.

maybe a $0.10 fix. maybe a lose wire even.

1) check motor hall sensors (0-5v)
2) check controller phase wire resistance (20k)
3) examine motor windings for crispiness (methods syndrome)

I bet everything's fine except for bad halls and/or lose wire

 

[SilverSurfer]

Thanks bro, I will do all that tonight! SS

check motor hall sensors.

maybe motor ok, controller ok, hall(s) are blown.

maybe a $0.10 fix. maybe a lose wire even.

1) check motor hall sensors (0-5v)
2) check controller phase wire resistance (20k)
3) examine motor windings for crispiness (methods syndrome)

I bet everything's fine except for bad halls and/or lose wire

 

[John in CR]

SS,

Don't get too carried away on the high temp wire mods, you're still at the mercy of magnets that don't like getting too hot.

You need to definitely try some other combos as the first thing to try. I'm not sure any controllers can be totally trusted for consistent wiring, but different vendors, definitely no way. Switch only the phase, or only the halls at first, whichever is easier. I always slip the spades for the hall plug out of the connector housing, so changing the halls is easy and relatively secure. With one static setting of phases or halls, changing the other should net you one good result, smooth and near silent. If the good one is reverse, then swap 2 and only 2 wires of those that were static, and go back to different combos of the ones you were changing before.

Beware of false good results, ie the wheel spins but makes a bit more noise. On all my hub motors that false positive has always been in the opposite direction of the true good combo, so a false positive in the right direction means you need to swap 2 of your static wires. If you just try both combos with yellow in the first slot, then both with green in the first slot, and then both with blue in the first slot, then you don't even have to write anything down to be systematic, and half the time you're only swapping 2 wires.

Using this method I can find the correct wiring combo within 8 or 9 tries every time, and it's a 50/50 chance of the first 5. Wrong direction or false positive right direction are both feedback to swap 2 phase wires.

John

 

[SilverSurfer]

Tail light project getting into gear!

Didnt want to use the little led replacement bulbs out there, Im using a little high power led, MUCH brighter!
First had to remove the old incandescent mounting sockets.

Came out REAL easy!

I disassembled a high power led light, and am customizing it to mount into the base, The heatsink is fat at the bottom and dont fit in the hole very well!

So I dremel engineered it

Nice fit now!

Some steel epoxy putty

simple wiring deal, except I got the colors wrong, oh well.

Looking good!

Very nice!

Thanks for looking! SS

 

[SilverSurfer]

12FET 72v 45a Infineon controller seems fine from apearances! This is good as, if its bad, it will be easier to fix.........i hope.

Nothing visible, all fet's look great. Still, wanna get it gone over, by a pro.

My last run specs show min amps at -155a !!! My regen circuit seemed to go off the limit as she shut down. Huh

 

[SilverSurfer]

So. I was putting the new Delat/Wye 9C motor on the The Rapture, when as I was removing the old Golden Motor, I says to myself, self, that looks like bare copper on that phase wire going to the hub. Looking closer, it is!
I peeled the sleeve back a little to reveal the damaged cable, GNARLEY!

The more I peeled back, the more I saw!

Seems ALL the wires got welded together!

Yup, FUSED! LOL

Really interesting. This was my very first every ebike and hub motor. Yet as I built the replacement that just went in, I used teflon phase and hall wires throughout! Youda thunk I saw it commin! LOL actually, I thought I was going to melt mag wire enameling, but this is awsome too!

See, Im not an electrical engineer, but I am an industrial maintenance technician! I know a weak link! And I dont mean my wife or my spelling! If I rewind this hub with high tech mag wire, I can increase both efficiency and durability at the same time. It will be a little costly to do, but the benifits could well be worth the cost. Hall wire sensors are the question. Havent found any space age high tech hall sensors for inside nuclear reactors or space shuttles, hhhmmmmmm. Maybe I can salvage some from that old reactionless drive in my other shop.

 

[SilverSurfer]

By the way, 9C Delta/Wye to work today! Works great! in wye she went to 27mph. Not much torque, but ok. The GM had way more Uummph! Hit the delta! Great torquey second wind. Got up to about 37 when she was slowing down acceleration but still gaining, for the trail I was on that was fast eneough! The 9c was good, but after driving in in wye, and comparing it to GM which was ONLY wye, Im thinking the GM in delta will be a MONSTER! Maybe some strontium magnets or sumthin....... flux capacitor............. fission multiplexor..........................

 

[doc007]

is that a Swastika tattooed on your thumb?! wtf!

 

[SilverSurfer]

Yeah, it is. Havent got that one covered yet. I used to be a satanic outlaw biker did armed robberies, burglaries, sold drugs, and beat the shyt outa anyone who looked at me funny. Honestly. You spotted one of the FEW pieces of history that reveal my past. Ugly huh! Yeah, I got to put something over that! I was more interested in covering the 666 on my neck, pentagram on my hand, white pride on my back arms, the list goes on and on! Sorry if your offended, but that guys long gone. If you want to know more, google, "The Tattoo Shop Prophesies", have a great day! SS

is that a Swastika tattooed on your thumb?! wtf!