Show Us Your Homemade Battery Housing

Yep the charger is IEC both in and out, 3A only. I can carry in the bag or in a hard tail box I have on the rack - I had the battery in there but was too top-heavy and left little room for storage etc....the KT controller is mounted to the lid of the lockable box. The previous cheapo controller I had got pretty hot in there - my current one runs very cool.
 

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Here is detail of connections - it connects to charger as is here via the IEC, but the main connection to controller is via XT90. Theres a 40A automotive fuse inline inside the bag. Extra points if you can identify my garage door opener, velcro'd to the bottom of the battery plate.
 

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electrolyte only

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*edit*
should have known eric hicks wuz waay out in front on this.
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Dui said:
Not entirely finished but real close, so I thought I'd share it here too...
So this is the battery box I'm building for my motorbike, It all started up with some blue foam:

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Little update: I finally finished this battery box a few months ago.

First thing was to prepare the BMS by adding some large copper tabs:
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Then I designed and 3D printed an enclosure for it, which includes some active cooling with fans and ducts:
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Next step was a lot more complex: I decided to design an Air conditioning system capable of both cooling or heating the battery depending on its actual temperature. It works using Peltier Modules, which can generate either heat or cold depending on the voltage polarity you supply to them. This was a lot of work and a long journey...

I started by designing a prototype board to test the functions:
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Had to make sure that it could fit under a little removable cover, in front of the battery box:
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Once I got satisfied with the results, I designed a more permanent PCB and had it made by a professional PCB company for very cheap. It was quite interesting to do, I had to learn a lot of stuff to get there but eventually it worked out just fine!:
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I then installed it on the box:
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An actively controlled temperature box can only be effective if there is at least some amount of insulation between the outside and the inside. I had very little space left at this point, so I had to go for a very efficient insulator. I chose to go for a facncy material: aerogel silicate.
I chose this material for two reasons:
-It's the best insulator material I know of, basically 10 mm of this thing is equivalent to 50mm of expansed polyurethane foam
-It can resist to insanely high temperatures for extended periods of time. You can litterally fire a blowtorch directly on it while keeping your hand against the other side, it won't get hot. This might help containing a fire in case of a catastrophic event. At least it should delay it for a little while.

I covered it with Kapton tape because this thing makes aa lot of dust and tiny particles otherwise.
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An air cooling system can only work if air is able to go ll around the battery. So I had to desing some channels and some ducts to get the air all around the insides of the box. This was very challenging because I had very little space left after installing the insulation.
Basically, a fan sucks the air from the front of the battery, then the air goes through the Peltier module's heatsinks and goes all around the battery through various channels. Here is a little drawing to make it a bit more clear hopefully:
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These internal panels also had to feature some channels for the wirign, as well as attachment points and some adjustable brackets to compress the battery so it doesn't move around. I also had to make some room for the BMS wires to go to the battery box as well as the main power wires.
It was really, really hard to get everything in the tight space that I had left, but eventually I got it working!:

Here is the main fan and one of the two temperature/humidity sensor:
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The internals completed:
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It was then time to make the power wiring:
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Last but not least, a good coat of wrinkle paint on the BMS enclosure:
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Finally, installed the box back into the frame:
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Then the battery....:
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And voila, finally job done!

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I'll just have to close the lid, but I prefer tto wait a little bit just to make sure everything's fine!
That was a long journey and a lot of work to get there, but it worked out well and I learned a ton of stuff. Didn't know how to make any of that before this build, most of the stuff here was my first attempt, like carbon fiber, PCB making, peltier modules, etc.

Sorry for the very long post, hopefully it will give some inspiration to you guys!
 
Thought I'd finally make a custom battery case to fit my Motobecane fat bike. I've been using a battery bag for a while and it's worked fine, but kind of wanted something a little cleaner and more appealing to the eye.

Final product. Used some diamond plate 22 gauge aluminum sheet and welded (brazed) most of the battery box together. It's very sturdy and about 3lbs total. Bolted to the 4 bottle cage mounts on the down tube and seat tube.
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Drive side plate is bolted into the case with custom brackets.
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Cockpit. Eggrider display. Surly sunrise handlebars.
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Added a keyed ignition, charging port, and a cable gland to waterproof and protect the throttle and display cables.
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Side plate removed. I used a lot of foam to protect the battery and minimize vibration. It's worked well so far.
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Raw shell before brackets were mounted and installed.
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Overall, pretty pleased with how it turned out. Kind of wish I made something like this sooner, I went through a couple battery bags over the last few years - always ripping, tearing etc.

Bike specs -
26x4.8" Motobecane (sturgis?) fat bike
BBSHD @ 72v
ASI BAC855 controller
72v 20ah battery w/ 21700 cells
Eggrider v2 display
Single speed, no need for gears with this bike. The BAC855 gets the RPMs so high on the BBSHD, I can get 44mph on a 1.25 gear ratio.
 

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