Slowest Motor 1500watt max?

Your 195kg is 430lbs, very close. But it all looks like guess work. This graph shows that can only do 8.5% grade.
I don't know if there is really any point in making such an unpopular drive just to save a little power. But the law makers tell me that is what is needed; a maximum of 900 watts output. So I assume that the input will need to be 20 to 30% more depending on the motor's waste of energy.

Too bad the lawyers do not understand anything about engineering. And no one here appreciates the concept that our state law supersedes federal law. 1500W max is for a moped only.

https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/EBike_Motors_Non-Hub-Rear

leaf%2B35mm%2B5t.JPG


Wheazel said:
When I built my cargobike there was a lot of naysaying about switching from a revolt 120pro to a dd hub.
I was unhappy with the efficiency I got with the revolt, so I ordered a Leaf 1500 motor(5T I think). This was in a 26" wheel and the bike has a 18s large capacity battery.
I usually run with a 35A current limit, which is above 2kW and seldom reached.
The bike itself is probably 60-70kg, +me 75kg, +cargo (almost never more than 50kg). So maybe lighter than your needs.

Anyhow, that setup worked well. Would probably overheat if climbing a mountain, but no sweat for the quite hilly town I live in.
Later changed to an mxus 3k (4T) due to the lacing of the leaf 1500 gave up gradually, and had the mxus at hand.
The mxus is in a 21" moped rim and provides slightly more torque for my chosen current limits.

This tells me that a hub like the leaf 1500 in a small rim like 20" would be quite good at climbing.
I would choose the leaf 1500 + a 24" bikerim if I would relace the leaf for the cargo bike, over the mxus.
The leaf in a 26" bikerim was more efficient than the current mxus in a 21" moped rim.
The rear tyre differ between the two, but the leaf is probably a slightly more efficient package due to smaller size.

This might or might not be a niche case, riding speed is most usually 30-40km/h.
Steep uphill slopes around 25km/h, unless I allow for more power to the motor.
Click to expand...
 
To finish this quest for a motor that does what I need, I found the right machine: the Golden 800watt (nominal)

golden%2Bmotor%2B1500w.JPG




SlowCo said:
Just use a Cyclone geared mid drive motor:

http://www.cyclone-tw.com/motor.html

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867

Use it as a mid drive through your front sprocket (use the largest you can place) and a quality chain. Or as a left side direct chain drive. The 3000W geared Cyclone turns at 800 rpm nominal so an easy reduction to a 26"wheel is possible.
Click to expand...
 
Hugh-Jassman said:
To finish this quest for a motor that does what I need, I found the right machine: the Golden 800watt (nominal)
Click to expand...

golden%2Bmotor%2B1500w.JPG


How do you plan to step the 3200-5000 RPM down to an appropriate wheel speed in one stage?
 
Chalo said:
Hugh-Jassman said:
To finish this quest for a motor that does what I need, I found the right machine: the Golden 800watt (nominal)
Click to expand...

golden%2Bmotor%2B1500w.JPG


How do you plan to step the 3200-5000 RPM down to an appropriate wheel speed in one stage?
Click to expand...

He seems deaf for good advise so don't bother Chalo. He replied with a photo of a 1500W nominal and 3000W peak 3200+rpm motor calling it a 800W nominal motor to my advise for a Cyclone motor with 800rpm. I don't think he has any idea what he needs...
 
That's more like it, speed wise. What chain size is that for? #41, #35?

20 pounds is a really heavy motor for the output power you're looking at.
 
The stoke monkey works great Justin sells them so you know it works. Go to the best biggest ebike store and test ride. So go ride. Where you live ? Ebikezzz has 80 or More ebikes so go try 10 out. Middrives, geared, DD and clogged belts. Go open your eyes .
Plus where do ye live ? Help us help you.
 
I want to build a belt drive single gear reduction 2inch on the motor and 16inch rim with epoxy teeth....

ok I fried my brain again thinking about this motor graph:

At 1100 rpm it would still need a little more power if I wanted to drive more than 10 mph up our 9% grade with 450lbs, but for 400lbs it would be much easier at 1100 rpm, like 8:1 for about 10 to 11mph. Well I should just find a faster more powerful motor and build a two stage reduction even if it is more expensive.


Chalo said:
That's more like it, speed wise. What chain size is that for? #41, #35?

20 pounds is a really heavy motor for the output power you're looking at.
Click to expand...
 
Hugh-Jassman said:
I want to build a belt drive single gear reduction 2inch on the motor and 16inch rim with epoxy teeth....

I need a motor that will do no more than 1200 rpm at no less than about 1050 watts. Or I will have to use a two stage gear reduction. Because I intend to use an 8:1 reduction ratio for a 26 inch tire to drive 450lbs up a 9% grade for short distances.

I am not sure that motor will do more than 1100 rpms , so I may have to use a larger motor. Very difficult to find what I need because every thing is built for speed.


Chalo said:
That's more like it, speed wise. What chain size is that for? #41, #35?

20 pounds is a really heavy motor for the output power you're looking at.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

How hilarious that you keep ignoring the best motor for your project you're likely to find... :roll:
3000W nominal at 800 rpm and just 9 pounds would be perfect. :lol:
 
Are you talkiing about the stoke monkey? 3000watts and up? wow that is way too much.....they would put me in jail just thinnking aobut it.

Don't they have a new more powerful motor? I refuse to use it as a mid-drive unless it drive both rear and crank drive together, but that would create even more complexity. Please show me a graph, I really need to see the rpm and power on graph.

SlowCo said:
How hilarious that you keep ignoring the best motor for your project you're likely to find... :roll:
3000W nominal at 800 rpm and just 9 pounds would be perfect. :lol:
Click to expand...
 
Unlimited ways to skin the cat.

Some turn out using/needing special brackets and chain guides and have a bunch of moving parts making noise and wearing out as they go.

Or say a magic pie, which will bolt to your bike and work silently for years of no maintenance.
 
could you show me a photo of that 'magic pie' rig?



liveforphysics said:
Unlimited ways to skin the cat.

Some turn out using/needing special brackets and chain guides and have a bunch of moving parts making noise and wearing out as they go.

Or say a magic pie, which will bolt to your bike and work silently for years of no maintenance.
Click to expand...
 
https://www.goldenmotor.com/magicpie/magicpie.html

It's a large diameter direct drive hub motor with integrated controller.
 
The motor simulator does not have the magic pie on it....
But this leaf motor would do the job if run at 48volts. Is that possible?

It will aslo need a 2.16:1 reduction ratio for a 26 inch tire. That looks like the best one yet.

leaf%2B48v.JPG






Chalo said:
https://www.goldenmotor.com/magicpie/magicpie.html

It's a large diameter direct drive hub motor with integrated controller.
Click to expand...
 
XIjWckxhpi89yti4SOwpmg_q6j6MC_ieqmp-iSklFg=w800-h547-no


https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=69867#p1055006

well darn my sox, At long long last found the right thread about the right motor for my hand made cycle truck. New cyclone 3000w mid-drive kit?
I think someone may have mentioned this cyclone, but did not tell me that there was something special about it. When I saw the planetary gears, I knew I needed this motor.

Although it is a lot over powered (I need only 1300w output, 1600w battery watts...at the right gear reduction). (left side single speed drive) well at least I won't need to worry so much about getting the gear reduction absolutely right. With a 6:1 gear reduction this should be the best hill climbing rig I could possibly hope for.

Or maybe it will be too slow at 1300 watts and then I will have to use a higher voltage to get more RPMs.
But now I have to figure out how big of a battery pack I will need.
 
The conversion kits I do at Precision Pedicab use the Cyclone 3000W motor. We run it at 36V 22A usually, but up to 48V 40A. Keep the volts low and amps high, and it will do what you want.

The shaft-mounted freewheel is the weak point. Use a heavy duty 13t freewheel rather than the default 14t. Or use a fixed sprocket on the motor and a freewheel on the driven wheel (perhaps on the left side).

I don't see how this is a better choice than say a 12T MAC hub motor. The results at 1.6kW will be more or less the same, but you'll have to make a lot more stuff to get the shafted motor to work.
 
Hugh-Jassman said:
I think someone may have mentioned this cyclone, but did not tell me that there was something special about it. When I saw the planetary gears, I knew I needed this motor.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've been telling you a few times (latest time a few posts up on this very page...) about this motor and also that it has an internal gear reduction. Good to see you've finally seen the light... :roll: :wink:
Now stop calculating and order this motor kit. You can change the external gearing reduction later on if needed.
 
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