Sparkle destroying my Powerpole 45A

Cwah, I feel your pain. I had Anderson PP45s on my 48v system and they were holding just fine with minimal signs of wear. Then I upgraded my motor from a 500w to a 1200w and it set off a whole slew of new problems I wasn't experiencing before. Amongst them were melting/fusing PPs.

I had an SB50 (that came with a perfectly timed new battery I ordered), and while that lasted for a few months, it eventually started to drop the ball because the pins are pretty much the same concept as the poles. In that case, they were failing to touch.

I tried bullet connectors (the crimping type) and somehow, they were failing me within a week. Even though I had them connected and I heard that sweet sweet spark, it would just lose contact randomly during a ride. At first, I wasn't sure. It was almost ambiguous.

Now, I'm using spade connectors. They're not perfect either but they hold in really well and when they bug out, you're sure it's that and not something else. The only drawback is that you have to mind the gap on the male spade connector with some heat shrink because it eventually tend to leave a little metal exposed.

Hope that helps.
 
Hi
I can deal wher you are coming from too.
To calibrate a cycleanalyst I use a bank of 9 50w 12v car lights (3s3p)with a 36v LiPo Battery this gave me a constant draw of approx 450w.for connectors I was using shielded 4mm high power connectors.

When I made the final connection the lights went on immediately and caused on hell of a spark on the joining terminals the terminals started to vaporise.

I finally fixed the problem I fitted a MCB(mini circuit brakes) that you would find in a fuse box, to the Ted wire, I have a similar thing on my ebike with a precharge circuit as well but found I don’t need the precharge circuit.

Ive found on the calibrating circuit the MCB works a treat no more sparks it will work just as well for you with power pole connectors.
Geoff
 
geoff57 said:
Hi
I can deal wher you are coming from too.
To calibrate a cycleanalyst I use a bank of 9 50w 12v car lights (3s3p)with a 36v LiPo Battery this gave me a constant draw of approx 450w.for connectors I was using shielded 4mm high power connectors.

When I made the final connection the lights went on immediately and caused on hell of a spark on the joining terminals the terminals started to vaporise.

I finally fixed the problem I fitted a MCB(mini circuit brakes) that you would find in a fuse box, to the Ted wire, I have a similar thing on my ebike with a precharge circuit as well but found I don’t need the precharge circuit.

Ive found on the calibrating circuit the MCB works a treat no more sparks it will work just as well for you with power pole connectors.
Geoff

Thanks. Where can I find these MCB? I m in the uk
 
all those recommended connectors here are NOT weather -proof and that is the problem.
I use Delphi connectors, rated 50A , entirely weather -proof, beautiful design , they last ages.
 
miro13car said:
all those recommended connectors here are NOT weather -proof and that is the problem.
I use Delphi connectors, rated 50A , entirely weather -proof, beautiful design , they last ages.

Does it protect against spark? I killed so many connectors
 
miro13car said:
I simply use high amps switch for connecting.
plug and pull connector how many times a day??

About twice a day. But I got a very big 60v battery and a 350A Kelly controller.

The powerpole 45A only last few weeks before it becomes un-usable :cry:

When the spark happen, I can actually see bits of the connector flying out 8)

I'm considering uping to the powerpole 75A but they are enormous and I'm not sure either it would work better.

Do you have a link to your 50A connector?
 
Use a second connector with a pre-charge resistor. Connect it first, then connect the main connector.

When you connect to a controller with a large capacitor bank it is like shorting out the load for a fraction of a second as the capacitor charges. Most any connector will be damaged as this occurs before the connector is fully engaged, so the large current flows through a small fraction of the connector's surfaces.
 
cwah said:
geoff57 said:
Hi
I can deal wher you are coming from too.
To calibrate a cycleanalyst I use a bank of 9 50w 12v car lights (3s3p)with a 36v LiPo Battery this gave me a constant draw of approx 450w.for connectors I was using shielded 4mm high power connectors.

When I made the final connection the lights went on immediately and caused on hell of a spark on the joining terminals the terminals started to vaporise.

I finally fixed the problem I fitted a MCB(mini circuit brakes) that you would find in a fuse box, to the Ted wire, I have a similar thing on my ebike with a precharge circuit as well but found I don’t need the precharge circuit.

Ive found on the calibrating circuit the MCB works a treat no more sparks it will work just as well for you with power pole connectors.
Geoff

Thanks. Where can I find these MCB? I m in the uk

https://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdc+mcb.TRS0&_nkw=dc+mcb
 
Solar breakers are equipped with DC arc interrupting hardware when opening the contacts. This is good.

It is not clear they have anything to handle the inrush current peaks. Do we have any data on max inrush currents or max capacitive load they can handle? These current surges can be many thousands of amps. How long can these circuit breakers handle this? (how many cycles?).

A precharge circuit around the circuit breaker is very easy to do with a resistor and a momentary switch.
 
danielrlee said:
cwah said:
geoff57 said:
Hi
I can deal wher you are coming from too.
To calibrate a cycleanalyst I use a bank of 9 50w 12v car lights (3s3p)with a 36v LiPo Battery this gave me a constant draw of approx 450w.for connectors I was using shielded 4mm high power connectors.

When I made the final connection the lights went on immediately and caused on hell of a spark on the joining terminals the terminals started to vaporise.

I finally fixed the problem I fitted a MCB(mini circuit brakes) that you would find in a fuse box, to the Ted wire, I have a similar thing on my ebike with a precharge circuit as well but found I don’t need the precharge circuit.

Ive found on the calibrating circuit the MCB works a treat no more sparks it will work just as well for you with power pole connectors.
Geoff

Thanks. Where can I find these MCB? I m in the uk

https://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdc+mcb.TRS0&_nkw=dc+mcb

So I put this on my negative wire and it's problem sorted?
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/63A-DC-Circuit-Breaker-MCB-Solar-Fuse-125v-Single-Pole-1P-Ebike-TOB1Z-63-C63/271990741484?epid=2098495247&hash=item3f53e959ec:g:URUAAOSw3YNXYTfc
 
cwah said:
danielrlee said:
cwah said:
geoff57 said:
Hi
I can deal wher you are coming from too.
To calibrate a cycleanalyst I use a bank of 9 50w 12v car lights (3s3p)with a 36v LiPo Battery this gave me a constant draw of approx 450w.for connectors I was using shielded 4mm high power connectors.

When I made the final connection the lights went on immediately and caused on hell of a spark on the joining terminals the terminals started to vaporise.

I finally fixed the problem I fitted a MCB(mini circuit brakes) that you would find in a fuse box, to the Ted wire, I have a similar thing on my ebike with a precharge circuit as well but found I don’t need the precharge circuit.

Ive found on the calibrating circuit the MCB works a treat no more sparks it will work just as well for you with power pole connectors.
Geoff

Thanks. Where can I find these MCB? I m in the uk

https://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdc+mcb.TRS0&_nkw=dc+mcb

So I put this on my negative wire and it's problem sorted?
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/63A-DC-Circuit-Breaker-MCB-Solar-Fuse-125v-Single-Pole-1P-Ebike-TOB1Z-63-C63/271990741484?epid=2098495247&hash=item3f53e959ec:g:URUAAOSw3YNXYTfc

Install the breaker on any of the main power cables, in through the top and out through the bottom. Connect your battery to the controller with the breaker switched to the 'off' position, then turn the breaker 'on' to complete the circuit.

Make sure you choose the correct breaker rating for your power requirements.
 
I have a battery of 60V and amps up to 70A. Is this one good?
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/63A-DC-Circuit-Breaker-MCB-Solar-Fuse-125v-Single-Pole-1P-Ebike-TOB1Z-63-C63/271990741484?epid=2098495247&hash=item3f53e959ec:g:URUAAOSw3YNXYTfc
 
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