liveforphysics
100 TW
CroDriver said:Are you sure that this is possible? What if I pull 2000Amps out of that pack? I assume that the TS cells would sag below 1V and be permanently damaged.
Btw. People think that TS cells are worse than there really are. They are just fine for the price. Cars are different than bike, most of them don't need over 3C since they are used as commuters. A car needs a lot of batteries so the price is very important. I have to add +50% of the purchasing price for duties and shipping!
Each 20Ah A123 cell you add in parallel with your pack will increase your current ability by 600amps continuously. They only weight 480grams per cell. If you want to pull 2000amps continously, you would need to run 2-3 A123 20Ah pouch cells in parallel with your pack.
The beauty of connecting them in parallel with your existing cells is that your TS cells wont have damaging voltage drop and heat going to them anymore. The voltages between the A123 cell and the TS cells will be linked, so the low Ri of the A123 cell protects the TS cell, and in return, the TS cell is constantly charging up the A123 cell. Cheap energy storage from TS, and high power output from the A123 cells.
CroDriver said:Aviability of A123 cells? Are you speaking about these Chinese ebay sellers?
Nope, we're talking factory sealed boxes of new 20Ah A123 cells right from the manufacture. There are zero manufactures in the states using these cells, and they are made in Korea. This means it's very difficult to obtain them in the states, as A123 has no commercial reason to even have them in North America.
The only OEM using (and only large volume use) of these fantastic cells is the Shanghai electric car company in China. This is the best country they can be in as far as the cells making there way into the hands of the grass-roots EV community.
CroDriver said:All rotating parts have to be balanced right on the shaft since the motor is not perfect. I even had to mount "only" one motor for now since the motors vibrate at high RPMs if coupled together. I will rebuild all the "non-electric" parts of the motor (housing, shaft...) later and then build in both motors.
When I saw the parts layout, I wondered if that wasn't going to happen. You were smart to use the clutch, and it functions as a torsional and axial alignment issue fix between the motors and tranny. To couple a motor to a generator, they always use a flex-plate setup, or those little laminated bolt-on torque strips like you see holding the friction plate in place in a pressure plate. Those are the space-saving thin methods. Other methods include a hundred varieties of off-axis coupler designs, but these all take up at least 6" of space for fitment, which would suck for this application. I've never seen direct-direct work-out in real life without destroying bearings. It always looks the best on paper... but paper is easy to fool.