Suzuki GS500 conversion

m34tbag

1 mW
Joined
Mar 23, 2023
Messages
14
Location
In the shed
Hello all. I've bought myself someone elses project and now I'm fixing up some things, improving, putting my own touches on it etc.

The bike is a Suzuki GS500 thats been converted with a 4kw hub motor, MQCON 72250 inverter and 84v batteries.

The frame that holds the battery boxes was pretty ordinary, so I've been working on that and pretty much finished it, including managing to move the inverter off the top of the batteries under the old fuel tank and onto the backside of one battery between the frame. This has opened up a huge amount of space under the old fuel tank so I can have an onboard charger. Next up on the list is to redo the 12v wiring system from scratch using a pdm to control everything. The previous owner had it all working, but I don't think wiring was their skill. They've made some 'interesting' choices, including a few unneeded isolator switches, 3 dc-dc converters (2 just to activate the contactor?), indicator and park lights not connected, no saftey switches on the kickstand, no brake switch connection to the inverter etc. Im surprised I haven't found any twist and tape wiring connections yet.

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The bike as bought from the previous owner.

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The battery cradle rebuilt by me. Its now possible to install or remove each battery individually or drop the whole pack as a single complete unit.

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Each battery is a 84v module, with bms built in. According to the label on the side, its capable of 150Ah. Haven't cracked one open yet, but I'm pretty sure its made up of 18650 cells in a 20S19P configuration (Edit, they are pouch cells). The PO had the 2 batteries electrically separate, so you'd have to manually change the anderson plug on the side for running and charging. That'll be changed and the batteries will be wired in parallel. Or maybe in series and run the bike at 144v, but then I need an expensive new controller...

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YumaMotor 4kw 16" hubmotor.

I've currently got it all put together and im trying to debug some issues with the HV side (I'll post another thread) but more will be coming later.
 
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This is the pdm (power distribution module) im using. Essentially it'll replace the whole fusebox and has outputs for all my lights and indicators.

I've got a more complex one in my car that replaces the fusebox and serves as the 'brain' of the car, its got some cool functions like being able to program each input and output channel. If you've got a reasonably modern car, its already got something similar in it from factory, usually known as the body control module.
 
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This is the pdm (pwer distribution module) im using. Essentially it'll replace the whole fusebox and has outputs for all my lights and indicators.

I've got a more complex one in my car that replaces the fusebox and serves as the 'brain' of the car, its got some cool functions like being able to program each input and output channel. If you've got a reasonably modern car, its already got something similar in it from factory, usually known as the body control module.

I was looking at one of these. I think you've changed my mind.
 
I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) then transferred my prototype to metal.
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The front half picks up the 2 vent holes in the front of the frame. It won't need to come in or out to get to the battery, which is nice because its a pain to install.

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The dc/dc converter, pdm and horn relay all sit under that cover. The space left over on top is for the charger.
 
Oh, thats a very nice pdm, its got some good functions built in. I guess at the end of the day, do you want those features or is something a bit more basic going to work just as well?

IMO its one of the best on the market but its also the most expensive. I wouldn't end up using any of the bluetooth stuff which is seemingly the main difference between them so I think I'd rather save $400.
 
I had to mod the clipon handlebars, the inside needed to be machined out to fit the mirrors and some holes drilled to run the wires for the new buttons. I'll need to sort out some grips then start wiring it all up.
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Choosing the headlight is going to be hard. This will set the entire look of the bike.
 
right, progress, yea, that's been happening slowly between everything else life has been throwing at me.

The MQcon inverter is non responsive, didn't even seem like it was turning on, damaged internally perhaps.
I tried to make it work, but Chinese electronics are going to as reliable as they sound.

I pulled all of that out, didn't learn my lesson and replaced it with a Fardriver ND84530.

I also pulled the motor apart and found some rust inside, so I cleaned it all up, sprayed it with varnish and put some statorade in during reassembly.
I've been working on the battery, I put the second battery in and wired it all up.

The challenge now is to get it to respond. As far as I know everything is working as it should, but still nothing.
The battery is good, the bms is working. the screen is displaying, the bike electricals are working, brake lights, indicators etc, the throttle is unresponsive.
I've tried a spare throttle and the controller beeps an error code when its disconnected, but nothing, no response.
I measure 5v at the red and black throttle wires briefly when the controller switches on, but it quickly falls to zero.

Just connect with the app and have a look you say? I would if I could. The app doesn't work. can't connect via bluetooth. I've got 2 bluetooth modules, neither works. Maybe its my phone? tried on my gf's iphone, still couldn't connect. Tried to put the app onto a spare Oppo phone, nup, app wont install, error with the .apk file.
I've got a laptop cable too, Got the program on an old laptop running win7, but it doesn't want to connect either.

Chinese lies, Chinese apps and Chinese electronics. the worst combination ever.
 

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The fardriver app needs GPS Position, WLAN or GSM Data acces, and everything else you would normaly not find nececary to program a controller.
Actual Version is 2.2.7
Can you find the Bluetooth dongle with the fardriver App?
On the front Page down left ist the Bluetooth sign, and then on the connection Page you have to click Scan. Then it should appartement.
 
Sucess! So, turns out the orange wire to turn the controller on, it needs the full battery voltage, not just +12v from the dc-dc converter.

After that quick little rewire, the controller came to life, the bluetooth started working, the app works!

Twist the throttle and the wheel spins, then stops. Hall sensor fault.

The next night I pulled the motor off, fitted up a spare and got it to spin up first go.


Now I just have to put a tyre on the rim, fix up the front suspension and brakes, then get it checked by an engineer so I can register it to go on the road.
Simples.
 
I went for a quick sneaky ride around the neighbourhood, this bike has got a nice bit of punch to it and I haven't even started tuning the controller yet.

I'll have to change a few things though, the seat cushion is way too low and thin, and the handlebars are very low, my old back says no. It looks cool, but its not really practical. I'll do the seat first and see how that changes everything.
 

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