Tearing belts left and right

[farrerzack]

I've been having issues with my belts for quite some time now, I am using htd 5mm and the standard pulleys provided with the kit from torqueboards. As of today I have torn through my 6th belt since I bought the kit, which was in the early fall. Keep in mind I live in Boston so I was not riding for a very long time of this. My last belt alone went from brand new to broken in about 4 days.

I have checked the tension almost every day I ride, it was never too tight to the point that it had resistance when turning the wheel, never too loose that it would slip on days that werent rainy(for whatever reason it seems to slip no matter what tension in the rain). The pulleys seem to be in line, but maybe I'm missing something. Open to any tips, buying my next round of belts from polybelt tonight

 

[torqueboards]

You shouldn't be tearing belts that fast. Belts last anywhere from 200-400 miles +. Takes months for me to change belts and for belts to wear out. Wouldn't be surprised if belts last 600-800+ miles.

I can't remember if you are using a single motor and/or dual and/or if you are climbing hills?

There are a few things I would double check and how I normally test my board and belts. Some may be repeated from what you mentioned.
- Check to see if anything could be eating the belt. Ex. Drive wheel teeth eating the belt?
- Check to see if under load does the belt move in a specific direction? Ex. going forwards where does the belt pull towards, going backwards where does the belt pull towards?
- If you are going uphill/downhill - a single motor on 9mm width belts is a lot of stress/strain for one pulley. You actually need the belt tension just perfect otherwise too tight - you stretch and wear out the belt. Too loose and you'll strip the belt with the pulley teeth since it will try to grab on but doesn't.
- Check the pulley teeth on both motor pulley and drive wheel pulley. Are the teeth intact? Are they damaged which cause an odd alignment issue.
- Is your motor pulley attached properly? Do you have 2 flat spots which the set screws on your motor pulley sit on? Any shift with this motor pulley can cause the belts to wear if they don't run properly as they were intended too. I also like to use actual bolts than set screws as I believe I can torque them down much harder. Bolts also provide a much better surface area to sit on and/or add force too.

Those are a few can't remember anything else. There's always a reason for eating up belts that fast. Belts in general even the cheaper ones from polybelt will last quite a while.

I also have been testing 15mm width belts and they have been working great. 15mm width belts make it much harder to slip under load going uphill or downhill. Easy to skip a 9mm belt across the pulley teeth if it's too loose. However, with a 15mm it has to be loose within that entire 15mm width. Definitely much more forgiving.

Hope it helps.

 

[MrDude_1]

post pictures of the broken belts.
There are a couple ways belts can break easier than expected.. misaligned pulleys are the most common culprit.

If the pulley axles are not parallel (or one moves when stressed) it will put all the tension of the belt on one side of the belt.. that tears, then it tears across.
if they are not aligned straight, one edge can rub, then it tears.

these are the two most common ways to break belts... you can usually tell how its breaking from pics.

 

[farrerzack]

You shouldn't be tearing belts that fast. Belts last anywhere from 200-400 miles +. Takes months for me to change belts and for belts to wear out. Wouldn't be surprised if belts last 600-800+ miles.

I can't remember if you are using a single motor and/or dual and/or if you are climbing hills?

There are a few things I would double check and how I normally test my board and belts. Some may be repeated from what you mentioned.
- Check to see if anything could be eating the belt. Ex. Drive wheel teeth eating the belt?
- Check to see if under load does the belt move in a specific direction? Ex. going forwards where does the belt pull towards, going backwards where does the belt pull towards?
- If you are going uphill/downhill - a single motor on 9mm width belts is a lot of stress/strain for one pulley. You actually need the belt tension just perfect otherwise too tight - you stretch and wear out the belt. Too loose and you'll strip the belt with the pulley teeth since it will try to grab on but doesn't.
- Check the pulley teeth on both motor pulley and drive wheel pulley. Are the teeth intact? Are they damaged which cause an odd alignment issue.
- Is your motor pulley attached properly? Do you have 2 flat spots which the set screws on your motor pulley sit on? Any shift with this motor pulley can cause the belts to wear if they don't run properly as they were intended too.

Those are a few can't remember anything else. There's always a reason for eating up belts that fast. Belts in general even the cheaper ones from polybelt will last quite a while.

I also have been testing 15mm width belts and they have been working great. 15mm width belts make it much harder to slip under load going uphill or downhill. Easy to skip a 9mm belt across the pulley teeth if it's too loose. However, with a 15mm it has to be loose within that entire 15mm width.

Hope it helps.

I ride in Boston for the most part, there are definitely some hills but I don't think they hold a candle to what you ride in San Francisco. I would say the vast majority of my riding is on fairly level ground. The teeth on the wheel pulley are worn in slightly on the exposed end (the one not touching the wheel) but the belt doesn't seem to touch those areas in operation and the shape of the teeth is still intact. is the conversion to 15mm very difficult?

 

[farrerzack]

post pictures of the broken belts.
There are a couple ways belts can break easier than expected.. misaligned pulleys are the most common culprit.

If the pulley axles are not parallel (or one moves when stressed) it will put all the tension of the belt on one side of the belt.. that tears, then it tears across.
if they are not aligned straight, one edge can rub, then it tears.

these are the two most common ways to break belts... you can usually tell how its breaking from pics.

I'll post pictures once im back in my room, I've been looking to see if thats the case but I can't tell

 

[torqueboards]

I ride in Boston for the most part, there are definitely some hills but I don't think they hold a candle to what you ride in San Francisco. I would say the vast majority of my riding is on fairly level ground. The teeth on the wheel pulley are worn in slightly on the exposed end (the one not touching the wheel) but the belt doesn't seem to touch those areas in operation and the shape of the teeth is still intact. is the conversion to 15mm very difficult?

No, they fit the current mounts. You'll have to use longboard washers on the axle which I can send you which push the wheel outward to make room for the 15mm. I'm currently using 20T/36T but that's because my motors are 200KV.

Something must be wrong because on flat ground it's not as much stressful. Are you kicking off when riding?

 

[farrerzack]

I ride in Boston for the most part, there are definitely some hills but I don't think they hold a candle to what you ride in San Francisco. I would say the vast majority of my riding is on fairly level ground. The teeth on the wheel pulley are worn in slightly on the exposed end (the one not touching the wheel) but the belt doesn't seem to touch those areas in operation and the shape of the teeth is still intact. is the conversion to 15mm very difficult?

No, they fit the current mounts. You'll have to use longboard washers on the axle which I can send you which push the wheel outward to make room for the 15mm. I'm currently using 20T/36T but that's because my motors are 200KV.

Something must be wrong because on flat ground it's not as much stressful. Are you kicking off when riding?

Yes, my board actually wont get moving without kicking from the start. I'm running a 213 KV which I know is a relatively torquey motor but I cant imagine that it would cause belts to break this often. How far out does the wheel have to be moved out for the 15mm belts? If i remember correctly i dont have that much threading available in the current setup, could maybe move the wheel out a couple of mils but thats about it

 

[MrDude_1]

I ride in Boston for the most part, there are definitely some hills but I don't think they hold a candle to what you ride in San Francisco. I would say the vast majority of my riding is on fairly level ground. The teeth on the wheel pulley are worn in slightly on the exposed end (the one not touching the wheel) but the belt doesn't seem to touch those areas in operation and the shape of the teeth is still intact. is the conversion to 15mm very difficult?

No, they fit the current mounts. You'll have to use longboard washers on the axle which I can send you which push the wheel outward to make room for the 15mm. I'm currently using 20T/36T but that's because my motors are 200KV.

Something must be wrong because on flat ground it's not as much stressful. Are you kicking off when riding?

Yes, my board actually wont get moving without kicking from the start. I'm running a 213 KV which I know is a relatively torquey motor but I cant imagine that it would cause belts to break this often. How far out does the wheel have to be moved out for the 15mm belts? If i remember correctly i dont have that much threading available in the current setup, could maybe move the wheel out a couple of mils but thats about it

If you're running 9mm belts, you're going to need 6mm more space... if you have room, you can put it closer to the bracket but most of the time you already have the pulley close to the bracket, that means the wheel still needs to move a good 5mm out. Not all trucks will fit this. thats one of the reasons why everyone doesnt use wide belts from the start.

 

[torqueboards]

If you're running 9mm belts, you're going to need 6mm more space... if you have room, you can put it closer to the bracket but most of the time you already have the pulley close to the bracket, that means the wheel still needs to move a good 5mm out. Not all trucks will fit this. thats one of the reasons why everyone doesnt use wide belts from the start.

Yeah, most trucks won't fit it unless you can move the truck mount but my truck mounts are a specific size. You can add in a few axle washers to push it outward 3-5mm. He would need to upgrade to 15mm capable pulleys and a 15mm belt.

15mm is pretty nice though. Didn't think it would make a huge difference.

 

[farrerzack]

If you're running 9mm belts, you're going to need 6mm more space... if you have room, you can put it closer to the bracket but most of the time you already have the pulley close to the bracket, that means the wheel still needs to move a good 5mm out. Not all trucks will fit this. thats one of the reasons why everyone doesnt use wide belts from the start.

Yeah, most trucks won't fit it unless you can move the truck mount but my truck mounts are a specific size. You can add in a few axle washers to push it outward 3-5mm. He would need to upgrade to 15mm capable pulleys and a 15mm belt.

15mm is pretty nice though. Didn't think it would make a huge difference.

If I absolutley had to, is it reasonable to think I could team out the motor mount near the shaft to allow the stem of the pulley to fit further down? This way I wouldn't have to move the wheel out as much

 

[torqueboards]

If I absolutley had to, is it reasonable to think I could team out the motor mount near the shaft to allow the stem of the pulley to fit further down? This way I wouldn't have to move the wheel out as much

No, you wouldn't want to do that as it would damage the integrity of the weld. You can simply push it outwards. It's completely fine and much safer to do it that way. I've been riding it like that with no issues.

For a dual rear on caliber trucks you have to do the same as well and add spacers to accommodate the two motors on dual rear. It's not anything new.

 

[farrerzack]

Here's the current pulley aligntment as it is now:
and here's the last belt to tear, its basically in immaculate condition except for the tear:

 

[torqueboards]

Try posting a photo with the new belt and how you align it properly.

To me it look's like that the motor pulley might be too close and when your riding moving the wheels in the direction which you plan on the motors spinning. Sometimes the belt pulley will want to shift to one side versus the other. Perhaps the belt itself is getting caught on the edge of the drive wheel pulley and cutting it up under force.

There's no reason for belts to break unless under severe force. These same belts are used for much higher loading applications then our own.

You do have to use them properly for them to work the best and last the longest.

I'd double check your angle for the motor pulley and/or watch how it moves with the board just flipped over.

I've had a few issues with pulleys and have cut up a ton but there was always answer on why they broke and it was always fixable.

 

[farrerzack]

Try posting a photo with the new belt and how you align it properly.

To me it look's like that the motor pulley might be too close and when your riding moving the wheels in the direction which you plan on the motors spinning. Sometimes the belt pulley will want to shift to one side versus the other. Perhaps the belt itself is getting caught on the edge of the drive wheel pulley and cutting it up under force.

There's no reason for belts to break unless under severe force. These same belts are used for much higher loading applications then our own.

You do have to use them properly for them to work the best and last the longest.

I'd double check your angle for the motor pulley and/or watch how it moves with the board just flipped over.

I've had a few issues with pulleys and have cut up a ton but there was always answer on why they broke and it was always fixable.

I do remember seeing that a while back and I believe I had added washers to correct that problem. Once I did that the belt lasted longer but if I remember correctly it still tore. On the drive pulley you supply, is it normal for the top of the teeth to be a bit sharp? Not sure if that's playing into this or not. I just ordered my next round of belts, once I get them I'll reshim the wheel and go from there

 

[torqueboards]

Yeah, it's ideal to put a camfer or shave off part of the pulley. You don't need too though if the alignment is correct. I think if you get my new 36T pulley and swap them out. The 36T pulley is about 20mm. The 36T will increase your top speed but lower torque.

But the reason why the belt moves over to that pulley is because how your motor pulley is aligned. If you push your motor pulley outward more the belt won't go towards the outside of your pulley.

 

[farrerzack]

Yeah, it's ideal to put a camfer or shave off part of the pulley. You don't need too though if the alignment is correct. I think if you get my new 36T pulley and swap them out. The 36T pulley is about 20mm. The 36T will increase your top speed but lower torque.

But the reason why the belt moves over to that pulley is because how your motor pulley is aligned. If you push your motor pulley outward more the belt won't go towards the outside of your pulley.

Is that 36T pulley for the drive pulley on the motor or the driven pulley on the wheel? And once I get my new belts I'll adjust that. Just to clarify, the belt should almost be right next to the inside wall of the motor pulley to keep belt in place?

 

[torqueboards]

Is that 36T pulley for the drive pulley on the motor or the driven pulley on the wheel? And once I get my new belts I'll adjust that. Just to clarify, the belt should almost be right next to the inside wall of the motor pulley to keep belt in place?

36T is for the drive wheel pulley. Yes, the location of the end of the motor pulley and flange keep the belt in a specific area.

If the pulley is to far towards the motor pulley and the drive wheel pulley is out a bit more and not long enough. The belt will shift towards the end of the motor pulley depending on the direction the wheels spin.

If the belt when in motion moves left more and there's no pulley it will ride on the edge of the teeth and just cut through it especially when going downhill or uphill this is crucial.

 

[farrerzack]

Is that 36T pulley for the drive pulley on the motor or the driven pulley on the wheel? And once I get my new belts I'll adjust that. Just to clarify, the belt should almost be right next to the inside wall of the motor pulley to keep belt in place?

36T is for the drive wheel pulley. Yes, the location of the end of the motor pulley and flange keep the belt in a specific area.

If the pulley is to far towards the motor pulley and the drive wheel pulley is out a bit more and not long enough. The belt will shift towards the end of the motor pulley depending on the direction the wheels spin.

If the belt when in motion moves left more and there's no pulley it will ride on the edge of the teeth and just cut through it especially when going downhill or uphill this is crucial.

I see, i will make the appropriate adjustments. Do you have the 36T pulley on your site now? I looked and did not see it

 

[CSN]

so what is the optimum amount of belt tension?

I would guess it would be measured deflection under pressure?

2 mm'?
3 mm?

 

[torqueboards]

so what is the optimum amount of belt tension?

I would guess it would be measured deflection under pressure?

2 mm'?
3 mm?

Just enough so your motor pulley doesn't skip. The tighter it is the more accurate precise stopping is although you stretch your pulleys a bit quicker and have more resistance on free rolling.

 

[CSN]

should be a way to measure tension.

like this maybe?

 

[torqueboards]

should be a way to measure tension.

like this maybe?

I'd say about 5 to 10mm deflection. However, 9mm width and 15mm width have a difference in deflection. Ex. Of course, 15mm can have a higher deflection than 9mm because of the added width.