Tidalforce Wavecrest motor?

veloman

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Sep 13, 2009
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Austin TX
What motor is on this? I thought maybe it was a 5 series Crystalyte. If it's not, is it still worth something? Looks pretty massive and able to overpower.
 

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It's as your title says, a Tidalforce iO Stepthrough cruiser. There's a bike rack bar mounted between the stem and seat post. It's probably the one with the standard speed limited 750W motor. Normal top speed is 12.5mph and "Turbo" mode speed is 19.5mph. They also made an "X" version of the bike which is usually marked on the frame with a "X" sticker. Most, if not all, of the ones appearing for sale have dying front hub batteries. It is possible to use an auxiliary battery with them. The NiMH batteries start fading after a few years and Tidalforce is now long gone so batteries are rarer than hens teeth. There is one company rebuilding the battery but last time I heard, they were asking $650 for the rebuild.

The motor is a 5 phase motor with the controller built into the rear hub. Max voltage is around 45-46v and is stated as 36v nominal.

I love my non-X cruise because of it's very smooth ride, the complete silence of it's motor and the very comfortable upright riding position. It is well worth the $300 asking price but feel free to offer $250. If you're looking for an ebike for your wife or GF, then this is the one! :wink:

For more details, see my blog!
 
Thanks Ambroseliao. I already got my gf riding my ebike from last winter, and this looks to be a very heavy bike. Good deal for someone else though. I was only interested if was something like a 5 series clyte.

Here's the guy's ad, in Central TX
http://austin.craigslist.org/bik/3164200534.html
 
Yes, it's a heavy bike which gives it that "Cadillac-like" ride! :)
 
Veloman,
It is one of the best if not the best you can still get /used of course/ in terms of quality except NickelMH battery of course.
Treasure of TF is motor/controller-build in which is example of USA engeenering at its best.
Chinese tried to "design" motor/controller-build-in and they failed like MagicPie shows. Many MPie owners use them with external controller.
If I see one TF with less than 1000 miles on the clock I can hardly resist.
Many TF owners do not realize what they got in their hands and try to sell it when NMH battery is dead.
And connecting non-factory battery is really easy.
It create bonanza for peoplelike Ambrose or me
I speak here from experience, I own 2 tidal Force bikes. One of them reached 22,040 kilometers /!!!!/ and still run excellent.
Light Electric Vehicles Technologies LEVT is a service company for TFs.
Cost of re-bulid of original NMH battery is yes as Ambrose says around $650.
Step-Through model , I can see somebody added cross bar which makes it no step-through.
TFs were originally built for military contract=durability.
 
the folding version called the 'montague' is used by the british special forces in parachute operations. they actually jump with the bike on a long tether which they allow to drop to the ground first and then take off cross country on the TF. quiet and effective mobility behind enemy lines.
 
miro13car said:
...Step-Through model , I can see somebody added cross bar which makes it no step-through..

I do better with the step-throughs because they save a lot of effort getting on and off yet in the case of that cantilevered rear rack on that TF, I could see it helping support that rear sear post to prevent its bending. I was guessing that the rack and brace come as a set for installation together.
 
Rear rack like that would never be included with TF.
Whole idea of TF mechanical design is all about low Cof Gravity. This is why battery in the wheel.
Every original TF handles wonderfully with low CofGravity , installing rack on rear post/stem defeats all this.
I often stand on pedals when I ride my TFs, they are so stable.
For cargo carrying low side bags is an answer.
 
If Tidalforce bikes came with the rear rack, then it would have been a Topeak rack since they use the Topeak Quickrack or MTX system to mount the Tidalforce auxiliary B battery. I agree with Miro. The Tidalforce system is amazingly stable because of the low center of gravity.
 
Regarding this IO cruiser out of Texas, I bought it for $200 + shipping, and it now resides in S.CA. :wink:

This now makes it a 7 Tidalforce ebike (+ one IO"X" frame) family. Though my intent was to use it as a backup "parts" bike, as I already have another IO step-side, and with plans to update the hub to "X" status.

I personally prefer the S750X/M750X/IOX cruiser frames over the smaller IO cruiser step-side. It's of course ideal for women or younger riders.

If the original front NiMH battery hub still has life, you can hook in parallel with an alternative battery (42v-46v) source after using a jumper in the 11/12 "B" battery terminal inside the dash. I use HobbyKing lithium Poly Nano Tech batteries. Two 18.5v/8ah in series (21v), two 22.2v/8ah in series (25.2v) then parallel both packs for 46.2v/16ah 4-pack weighing 9.4lbs. These are currently held in a topeak spring rear rack. The performance and range are greatly increased.

I've since started replacing the dead or dying front NiMH hubs with 26" shimano dyno disc rims and using a Planet bike dyno front LED light with Avid BB7 160/180mm calibers. The weight saving is huge, with the regen braking still working great. And upgraded the front 48t chainring to 53t, and pedals for topend speed.

I rode the Red S750X yesterday for my usual 12 mile cardio ride. It's 6 miles uphill and then 6 miles on a slight downhill ride. My cateye enduro 8 reads distance @ 11.97 miles, top speed @ 39mph, time @ 27:59 minutes, average speed @ 25.6 mph. With a body weight of 200lbs, I'm getting 30+ mph on level ground, with light pedaling, & 27.5+ mph on the uphills. With an end voltage of the pack @ 40.7v. This works for me. 8)

I've now got 20 various ebikes/scooters in the collection, and I'm of the opinion that the dead silence of the TF hub is superior to all others on the market! Though I've yet to try the crystalyte 4080 or BMC V4 @ 72v on my spare frame to compare. :shock:
 

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Nice 46V setup for max voltage "11s" 16Ahr as (6s+6s+5s+5s)/2 parallel setup.
Where did you get the 53 tooth front sprocket - I can't find one and would love to buy one, pls advise specifics to get one.

Ever replace the back hub wheel and custom-controller like a C_Phaserunner on an S750X with a Crystalyte and get up to 72 or 96V and 40 amps? That should be 45+mph territory, esp. with a narrower front tire and no NIMH heavy front.

My front hub is getting weak-does about 6-7miles now, it used to do ~14 when just rebuilt, so I'll convert over like you did and likely get narrower road Kenda Kwest-type 26x1.25" wheels until the stock setup dies then run a c_phaserunner little but powerful controller under the seat and a high speed crystalyte hub like a HS35 most likely-would love to get this bike up to a solid 40 to 45 max mph, but I know 46V is the top end with the bypassed default setup on "battery b" jumper ed bypass. (Would love to hear someone's build on a S750S750X frame to get this to 40+ mph, especially with a C_Phaserunner!

The regen works with the stock setup all the way up to your 11S pack setup 42.6V? That's a nice perk-I like a regen button for use on demand, but this is next best with its great regen indicator light..

I added a rear topeak mtx bag +rack and cane creek thud buster 3G long travel ---size=30.9mm--and added iin a super firm 9 insert and softer/wider seat and the ride was so smooth, now this is a zippy cruiser... Nice but pricey "rear-suspension" add-on.
Thx,
 
spinningmagnets said:
The multiple phases might be helpful to make it run very quietly. Is it a sine-wave controller?

Yes SM, it's a 7 phase internal sine wave controlled hub.....a shame it was only governed to a 46.2 volts max.

KB
 
Not that it matters much...But the bar is just a device to make it easier to hang a step thru frame bike on a car rack...It just unclips off, and it's non structural.
 
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