TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[Yanis]

Problem – Display just flickers on power-up. Question… should the Black, Orange, and White wires from the controller still be connected to the 8-wire loom going to the display?

Yes, the black and white wires should still go to the display, so you need to make a Y wiring. I had the same problem (well, if I remember, the display just wouldn't turn on) when I first installed the sensor, and everything worked again once I reconnected theses wires.

 

[Parad1gm]

I have a problem. Just got my bike setup, and now when I turn it on it says ‘wait’ and then ‘error brakes or comm’ I have no brake switches installed. Do I need to install /restore option bytes or something? (Something I’ve reason another thread)
Thanks
I’m using an 860C
Firmware 0.20.1C-4.1

 

[mbrusa]

If you have not installed the brake sensors, it is a communication problem between the motor controller and the display, it may depend on the wiring, check the adapter cable.
Can the display flash be done?

 

[Piper J3]

Per my post above... I decided to not install LM35 at this time. Made me real nervous when display didn't power-up.... So, I replaced original wiring and everything is Hunky-Dory. I'm going to ride bike soonest to make sure torque sensing still works. I love this motor...

 

[Parad1gm]

If you have not installed the brake sensors, it is a communication problem between the motor controller and the display, it may depend on the wiring, check the adapter cable.
Can the display flash be done?

The cables appear to be plugged in. I got the Tsdz2 pre-flashed, but have an stlink USB adapter, I’ll try flashing it later today, thanks.

One thing, is I did short the wires while working on it, but momentarily after power was disconnected Ted as well. This caused Avery small spark. I hope this isn’t enough to fry the controller. I can still access the options menu however

 

[kiwisibk]

Hello all,

I am using the latest emmebrusa firmware with a VLCD5 display for over a month now and i am very happy!

Just one question, if I disabled the data display at startup as well as the parameter configuration, do I still need to enable the odometer compensation?

When I turn on the display, I only see the battery percentage for the time the torque sensor is calibrated.

But what I noticed is that the kilometers in the TRIP display decrease from one power on to the next!?!!

Thanks for your advice on solving this problem!!!

 

[Elinx]

...... VLCD5 ... if I disabled the data display at startup as well as the parameter configuration, do I still need to enable the odometer compensation?.....

In Java configurator. If you uncheck "Auto display data with lights on" (Basic settings) and choose "none" for "Data displayed at startup" (Advanced settings), that percentage or other data will not displayed anymore and ODO compensation isn't needed.
In that case it make no difference if ODO compensation is enabled or disabled, because it never is active.

 

[kiwisibk]

...... VLCD5 ... if I disabled the data display at startup as well as the parameter configuration, do I still need to enable the odometer compensation?.....

In Java configurator. If you uncheck "Auto display data with lights on" (Basic settings) and choose "none" for "Data displayed at startup" (Advanced settings), that percentage or other data will not displayed anymore and ODO compensation isn't needed.
In that case it make no difference if ODO compensation is enabled or disabled, because it never is active.

Perfect, thanks for the explanation. Just another question regarding odometer compensation when flashing this option. Is the behavior on the VLCD5 display then that it shows zero for a while when I start driving, and only after some time the speedometer works again?
And one more question, could it be that if I turn off the battery switch before I turn off the VLCD5 display that the kilometers are not stored properly?
Thanks again!!

 

[Elinx]

....after some time the speedometer works again?
... kilometers are not stored properly?

Yes and yes

 

[kiwisibk]

....after some time the speedometer works again?
... kilometers are not stored properly?

[/quoteYes and yes

Thank you!!!

 

[kiwisibk]

I have another question with emmebrusa firmware. When I set the maximum speed through the java configurator, I see only dashes in the vlcd5 maximum speed configuration. Is this ok? I recently wanted to set the option to use the maximum speed on the VLCD5 display, but then there were still only dashes in the configuration with no way to set anything. What did I do wrong? Thanks

 

[docw009]

Question about speed sensor sensitivity. When I first installed the TSDZ2, I had steel spokes and needed a 2 mm spacing to get the speedometer to work with stock firmware. After I put in a wheel with stainless spokes, I had to go to 1 cm because 2mm gave me multiple hits and the speed was 2x-3x high. The flux field must be higher w/o the steel spokes.

When I run the embrusa firmware, I have to go back to the 2mm spacing to get a working speedometer. Did the firmware decrease the sensitivity level for the sensor?

 

[docw009]

Question about 36V. I want to tick off the box so I can use 36V packs on my 48V motor. It's just convenient. I have both voltages and would like it to be a dual voltage bike depending on what pack I mount.

Does this only affect the LVC in the controller? Is there a high voltege alarm still enabled that shuts me down if I put in a 13S pack?

 

[Elinx]

.... wanted to set the option to use the maximum speed on the VLCD5 display, but then there were still only dashes ...

I don't know what is wrong, because with XH18 display
I can change speedlimit but this will be ignored if I have disabled "Set max speed from display"
Maybe it has to do that there are 2 speedlimits in Javaconfigurator, for Streetmode and Offroadmode.

imho it looks you try to simulate the stock firmware with disabling a lot of OSF features. :wink:

FYI
The EU regulations prohibit that you can change the speed on the display higher than 25km/h, that is why you can disable speedlimit on display. Even the possibility to switch from streetmode to offroadmode (>25km/h) isn't legal.

...... Did the firmware decrease the sensitivity level for the sensor?

No, but there is added a filter in the latest builds to prevent bounced and corrupted speedpulses if the sensor is too close (<10mm).

.... use 36V packs on my 48V motor. It's just convenient..... like it to be a dual voltage bike depending on what pack I mount.

Does this only affect the LVC in the controller? Is there a high voltege alarm still enabled that shuts me down if I put in a 13S pack?

The controller doesn't matter, because all are the same and limited by firmware
The Voltages you can set yourself
With the "Basic settings" tab your setup the 48V pack (13S) and Voltage cutoff for the 36V battery (30V) and with "Advanced settings" tab you set the display Voltages.
The problem will be that you can't trust the displayed battery capacity anymore and can't set cutoff of the 48V battery to 40V, otherwise the 36V battery will not work or only partly (from 42V to 40V)
In that case for the 48V cutoff you must trust on the BMS of it

 

[docw009]

Thank you Elinx. the debounce filter must require me to set a closer magnet spacing then, I may not even be using the TSDZ2 spoke magent. I just pulled one out of my tool box.

I guess I could have just tried the 36V setting, but with winter here, it's too cold for me to configure and then test ride. I appreciate that help too, I like to mount a external voltmeter on my handlebars, when I cannot easily get a voltage reading from the LCD. I'll do that and then no problem having to rely on the BMS LVC.

 

[Elinx]

... I may not even be using the TSDZ2 spoke magent....

I have glued an allmost invisible tiny neodymium magnet on one spoke 3 years ago. I found such a big magnet ugly.

... I like to mount a external voltmeter on my handlebars, when I cannot easily get a voltage reading from the LCD.....

It it still possible to read the exact battery Voltage value on display (setup Display data in "Advanced settings" tab), but only the Voltage bars and measurement of capacity (%) can't be trusted with two batteries.

 

[dameri]

... I may not even be using the TSDZ2 spoke magent....

I have glued an allmost invisible tiny neodymium magnet on one spoke 3 years ago. I found such a big magnet ugly.

... I like to mount a external voltmeter on my handlebars, when I cannot easily get a voltage reading from the LCD.....

It it still possible to read the exact battery Voltage value on display (setup Display data in "Advanced settings" tab), but only the Voltage bars and measurement of capacity (%) can't be trusted with two batteries.

Can you tell more about this magnet please.

 

[Elinx]

.... more about this magnet please.

I had the idea from here
Seen this (too expensive) magnet
Founded some alternatives, like 25x3x3mm
Did a search for neodynium, N35 or rare earth magnet to find more results.

I have applied 10x4x2mm from there
Had planned to use epoxy, but first used hot glue 3 years ago for a trial :wink:

 

[dameri]

.... more about this magnet please.

I had the idea from here
Seen this (too expensive) magnet
Founded some alternatives, like 25x3x3mm
Did a search for neodynium, N35 or rare earth magnet to find more results.

I have applied 10x4x2mm from there
Had planned to use epoxy, but first used hot glue 3 years ago for a trial :wink:

Speedsensor.jpg
N35spokemagnet.jpg
MagnetReference.jpg

Thank you. I'll try that too. My original magnets turn on wrong postition many times. I think i will use two component glue.

 

[SYOTR]

Does Tsdz2 with OSF just use the single magnet speed sensor to calculate cadence. Seems like this would not measure pedal cadence. Is there some advantage to having more magnets? I see that there is a setting for number of magnets.

 

[Piper J3]

I want to install the LM35 temperature sensor. The Wiki doesn’t fully explain how to wire with 8-pin connection. I have OSF with 860C display. Do I leave all the wires still connected from the 8-wire loom and just splice into the three wires indicated? I’m pretty sure this is correct, but would like some conformation before I make commitment.

Thanks in advance…

 

[pxl666]

I want to install the LM35 temperature sensor. The Wiki doesn’t fully explain how to wire with 8-pin connection. I have OSF with 860C display. Do I leave all the wires still connected from the 8-wire loom and just splice into the three wires indicated? I’m pretty sure this is correct, but would like some conformation before I make commitment.

Thanks in advance…

i would cut throttle wires as you will not use throttle , and solder to them . its basically same i do with vlcd6 but i have no wires and have to solder to the board

 

[hermes127]

Hi, thank you so much for your fast response! Usually for short distances I use street mode ("street mode enabled on startup" legal way 25km/h and 250W torque mode) because I have just to turn on the bike and it's ready to go, but for long distances (5-10 km) I prefer cadence mode and off-road enabled (500W 35km/h) because it's more relaxing, I have just to move the pedals...the only problem in cadence mode is that when you go slow or when you start the motor is not progressive and it's a little bit "nervous" (just a small movement of the pedals and motor kick in) that's why I want to use the brake sensors for having more control. Another thing that is a little bit annoying (and this is not a critic but a suggestion for future improvements) is the fact that I have to enable off-road mode and then cadence mode...is there a way to put a setting option for enabling both options in one preset so I have only to enable one thing? I can understand if is not possible but if it's something easy to implement I thing it could be a useful improvement. Have a nice day and thanks again for your work!

I am surprised that someone uses cadence mode, I have always considered it an emergency mode, in case of failure of the torque sensor.
The same for the torque mode, in case of cadence sensor failure.
If you haven't tried it yet, try the hybrid mode, it's for those who want to make little effort. And set "Street power limit" to 500W.
With the proper assistance parameters (levels), you will not return to cadence mode.

Hi mbrusa,
just as a feedback I want to share my experience: I tried the hybrid mode with high assistance levels and you were absolutely right I don't need to use cadence mode anymore; with my new 48V TSDZ2B and your firmware set in hybrid mode the bike is amazing and easy to drive. Thank you so much for your advice and your firmware!
All the best!
Alberto

 

[hermes127]

Hi guys,
I have a question about temperature sensor: I have a 48V TSDZ2B motor (600W in off-road mode and 35Kmh hybrid mode high assistance levels) with 8 wires VLCD5 display and for me it's easy to implement the Texas Instrument LM-35 by soldering it to existing wires but I'm not sure if it is really useful with the 48V version which is less subject to heating than the 36V version. I don't use the throttle so I don't care about that function but I would like to know what are the benefits of implementing it with a 48V TSDZ2B motor and VLCD5 display and if it's advisable to add it. Thanks in advance for any clarification.

Greetings from Italy

 

[Elinx]

.... measure pedal cadence. Is there some advantage to having more magnets?....

The pedal cadence sensor is on the controller board
Imho there is no real advantage to add more spoke magnets for speed measuring. Theoretical the accuracy should be better, but practical I think you don't see the difference. On stock FW it was also possible to install more magnets.

... like to know what are the benefits of implementing it with a 48V TSDZ2B motor and VLCD5 display and if it's advisable to add it.

The stock Tsdz2(B) has a very bad heat management. If you run the tsdz2 with 600W, the motor will heat up, with a chance on demagnetization of the bare motor.

The first addition to reduce this chance, was adding a temperature sensor that powerdown the motor if the heat will go up.
The second addition was adding heatconductive material between bare motor and housing.
See wiki
See this thread

Both additions are effective and in your case I advice to add at least heatconductive material.