Turnigy nano-tech 8 gauge awg wire upgrade soldering tabs

steelmesh

100 W
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Jun 28, 2012
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Michigan
Since the tabs are already bonded to the existing solder blob, will I have any problems pulling off that 12 awg wire and replacing it with an 8 awg wire using some 40/60 solder (tinned with solder pot)?

http://i.imgur.com/xTHViHd.jpg
xTHViHd.jpg
 
I've never had a bit of trouble soldering to the pre tinned tabs on a pack I took apart and messed with. Usually it's just been turning a 5s into a 4s or something. With the wire solder soaked, and melting it into existing solder, it's quite easy.

But why do you really need to do that? gonna draw more power than the tab is rated for? I can see several paralleled packs joining into bigger wire, but why do you need bigger wire than the pack came with?
 
The packs are rated at 40C continuous (500 amp) and those wire leads are 12 guage. I will have 12 of these packs in series (24S) and wouldnt be surprised if I push the battery's rated discharge, 1-2 sec 40C burst tapered down to 20C for 10 more seconds. Im concerned about the wire lenghts for the complete series wiring. I can shorten the lengths by building 6S subpacks using 3 of these 2S packs.
 
those pouches are not gonna push 500A. we can start by making book on it but you could buy some 8S packs and solder a jumper across the two connections you would have to make. or you could buy 6S and make three connections by soldering some 10AWG from tab to tab.
 
Yikes, so if we wrote a forward in this novel, would it start something like this: C ratings are derived from internal resistance of the battery and do not reflect real life capabilities. My pride is hurt, but I can try to parallel what I have now to reduce the discharge to 250 amps 20C across each series string...
 
steelmesh said:
Yikes, so if we wrote a forward in this novel, would it start something like this: C ratings are derived from internal resistance of the battery and do not reflect real life capabilities. My pride is hurt, but I can try to parallel what I have now to reduce the discharge to 250 amps 20C across each series string...

so each one of those pouches is 6,000mAh? so together each cell is 12Ah? i think you would have have a dead short to make it push 500A though. but if it does it will be only once i suspect. but it would be interesting to see. do you have a meter to measure it?

i just connected the packs in series and removed the long lead wires on a pack i built.
 

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I have a nano pack with the bullets replaced with ring terminals, and then huck-rivited to a piece of nickel place copper sheet that is 1x50mm. It handles 420a bursts with zero heating.

The pack configuration is 24s 5p of 5ah packs, and it is making 50hp at the terminals with the stock 10awg wire. You will want to run those packs at a maximum of 20C burst to keep them happy. So for 500A you will want 25ah of pack to keep voltage sag under control.

I guess that for a limited use application, that you could run 30 or even 40C. The problem is that you will be sagging almost 20 volts at 40C (my pack sags about 7v at 18C. (24s pack)
 
dnmun said:
steelmesh said:
Yikes, so if we wrote a forward in this novel, would it start something like this: C ratings are derived from internal resistance of the battery and do not reflect real life capabilities. My pride is hurt, but I can try to parallel what I have now to reduce the discharge to 250 amps 20C across each series string...

so each one of those pouches is 6,000mAh? so together each cell is 12Ah? i think you would have have a dead short to make it push 500A though. but if it does it will be only once i suspect. but it would be interesting to see. do you have a meter to measure it?

i just connected the packs in series and removed the long lead wires on a pack i built.

Each individual pouch is 3.7v 6400mAh, so 2S2P = 7.4v at 12800mAh. I probably just need to double the battery purchase and create a 25.6Ah 100v pack :/
 
Ahh now I get it. Torturing some test cells. Should be easy to solder, to the already soldered tabs or spots on pcb's.

Hell, gotta be REAL easy if I can do it. :mrgreen: Later on, paralleling a shitload of them, smaller wire will be fine since the load on each one will be less.
 
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