What do you reckon your mpg equivalent is for your e-bike?

NeilP

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Just wondering how cost effective you reckon your e-bike is.

Working from our local fuel prices , here http://www.jerseyfuelwatch.com/
Our local petrol price is about £1.18 per litre..(USD $1.84)
and a gallon = 4.54 litres= £5.38 per British Gallon... ( FOR USA $6.96 per US Gallon )

I am just about to replace my pack at a cost of about £600 ($928)
The old pack has about 7800 miles on, so I should get about 8000 miles

this works out at about 7.5 pence per mile ( 11.6 cents per mile)
So £5.38 divided by 7.5 pence = so that is 72 miles per Imp gallon or 60 miles per US gallon

So comparing that to MPG figures as reported on this page
http://hallicino.hubpages.com/hub/MPG-Guide-The-Fuel-Economy-Of-250-Top-Selling-Scooters
It does not seem that great...Ok a motorcycle has insurance and other costs ..but e-bikes are not maintenance free either.

This is just battery replacement cost, not even covering the electricity cost or price of charger(s) building the wiring loom etc

Just wonder what other people get as a comparison
 
Ok, according to my watt meter I have put just over 8500 wh back into my 15 ah Headway pack since January. That is, if I can calculate correctly is about 566 full cycles. Today I rode for 12 ah of usage and when I finished my pack felt as perky as when I started. I have gone about 3000 miles on this pack and can see it lasting 8000 miles before it becomes something else.

So if I were to replace it today with a new pack from where I bought my old pack, (Headway-Headquarters) it would cost me about $530 USA. The average price of gasoline in Los Angeles today is 3.986 per gallon or 1.053 per liter. Now lets say I am comparing it to a car that gets 20 miles per gallon averaged for both city and highway driving then that would be...8000 miles / 20 mpg = 400 gallons of gas X 3.986 per gallon = $1594.40 USA. So that battery pack is looking like about 1/3 the cost to me. Of course you have to charge them. It cost me just over $1.00 USA per month to charge my bike so that could be about $48.00 to the cost of ownership.

Now according to the Automobile Club of America ownership and operation of a car in the USA actually averages at 60.8 cents per mile.

http://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/04/cos...ording-to-aaas-2013-your-driving-costs-study/

So 8000 miles X 0.603 cents USA per mile = $4824 USA !!! Now that battery pack really starts looking good.

:D
 
e-beach said:
Now according to the Automobile Club of America ownership and operation of a car in the USA actually averages at 60.8 cents per mile.

http://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/04/cos...ording-to-aaas-2013-your-driving-costs-study/

So 8000 miles X 0.603 cents USA per mile = $4824 USA !!! Now that battery pack really starts looking good.

:D

That's the interesting "hidden" fact about car ownership that an ebike is illuminating. The maintenance, taxes, licensure and inspection fees get pretty big over the course of a year. I've recently used up my two-years of oil changes and free maintenance on my Prius and since March (that would be March/April/May timeframe) I've got over $120 in the car on maintenance operations: synthetic oil and filter changes, wiper blades, "multi-point inspections", state inspection and license tag renewal.

I have a 33-mile-each-way, 66 mile-round-trip commute every day. I burn about 1.3 gallons of gasoline every day. I recently calculated the ebike (exclusive of the cost of the LiPo) to be several hundred times more efficient than the car in this way:

1 US Gallon of gas = 36.6 kWh/US gal. I burn about 47.58kWh on the daily commute in the Prius
On the ebike, I use about 580Wh each direction or about 1060Wh/commute or 1.060kWh. That's about 44 times LESS energy used by the bike compared to the gallon of gasoline the car uses.

If you convert to Wh/mile, the numbers get even better:
Prius = 475800 Wh/66 miles = 7209 Wh/mile
ebike = 19Wh/mile, so the improvement is 7209/19 = 379 times less energy than the car!
On the recumbent, at about 10 Wh/mile, we're looking at simply 720 times less energy than the car.

JKB
 
Let's go with an energy conversion, instead of Dollar/pound/euro whatever to gas to battery cost.

Let's see, I've had two E-bikes - the first gets about 24 WH/Mile at 25 MPH and the second gets 53.5 WH/Mile at 35 MPH.
My most efficient car gets 40 MPG or 17 km/L. A hybrid might get 50 or 60 mpg.

1 gallon of gas contains +of+automotive+gasoline/to/kilowatt+hours]36.6 kilowatt hours, if it could be burned at 100% efficiency. The car is far from that, but we are counting energy in vs how far it goes, and the inefficiency of a car is partly due to the terrible efficiency of internal combustion, plus all the tons of mass they have to lug around.

40 MPG = 40/36.6 M/kWhr = 915 watthours per mile. In other words my car would suck down a decent sized E-bike battery before it gets to the next driveway. Hmmmm - do you think we can beat that with an E-bike?

24 WH/Mile = .024 kWhr/mile = 41.66 mile/kwhr. 41.66 X 36.6 kWhr/Gallon = 1525 MPG or 650 km/Liter for you folks in the rest of the world.

53.5 Wh/Mile = .0535 kWhr/mile = 18.64 mile/kWhr. 18.64 X 36.6 kWhr/Gallon = 684 mpg. or 292 km/Liter

I actually have a bumper sticker on my fairing that says "684 mpg. Prius? Schmius!"

It is totally possible to build an electric vehicle that is 10X as efficient as a really good mileage car.
 
Why is a car so damned inefficient?

First, it has four seats. Almost all cars have four seats, even teeny little cars have four seats. And they are almost always side-by-side, making the car twice as wide as it would need to be to carry me and a sack of groceries, which is all that ever rides in my car 95% of the time. 2X frontal area = 2X air friction at the same speed. Only need one seat? Too bad, Detroit/Tokyo won't sell you one. Bad design #1.

Four seats = four butts. How big are those derriers? Well, they could easily be 300 pound football players. Gotta design for that. so you've got 1200 lbs of raw meat to haul around, plus their groceries, maybe another 400 lb. Them big boys can really put away the groceries you know. Let's just say 1600 lbs to make it even. I weigh 175 soaking wet, so the car is almost an order of magnitude too heavily built to haul me around. Design error #2.

Suspension follows logically, big beefy tires each weighing about what my bike weighs without its batteries.

Then, any production car can probably go 100 mph down a hill. Some of them much faster. Design error #3. Hauling 1/3 of a football team and their gear, as above, at 100 mph follows logically. Beef up the suspension again, add a frame, a steel body (really? Why not something lightweight?) and you have a modern car, twice as wide and an order of magnitude heavier than it needs to be to get me down the road with my bag of organic veggies.

Add an inefficient gas engine better at making heat than turn-um-wheel-um, and you've got the climate-clobbering nightmare that is the modern Automobile.
 
Gas costs four dollars a gallon, electricity costs five cents a kwh.

My bike got 5wh/mile at 15 mph (it's an aerodynamic recumbent).

So I can go 200 miles in order to use a kilowatt hour of electricity, or five cents.

Four dollars divided by five cents is equal to 80, so I get about 200miles*80=16,000 miles per gallon.

As far as battery costs go, I consider those "bike costs" since it really wasn't *that* expensive, and it appears that it'll last about 8 years with my current usage. In other words, practically forever so it's essentially a "fixed cost".
 
I suppose that depends on the chemistry type and maybe the bike usage.
I had never even considered thinking of the battery as a fixed cost. I suppose if you had to replace your car engine every two years and counted that as a fixed cost then you could count battery as a fixed cost too, but other wise it is a running cost for me.

I can only consider battery as a running cost and as a consumable. like part of the fuel cost. For me with a LiPo pack it lasts 18 months to a year. My pack is puffing so much that I am not sure that I will make anther 5 cycles on it and still be able to fit it back in the bike.

To me the cost of electricity is almost irrelevant to the total cost ..I work mine out to be about a third of a penny per mile ( 7pence per kWh ) and 20 miles per charge.

For my build, the battery cost is over half the cost of the bike, and has to be replaced every 18 months to two years..definitely a running cost and not a fixed cost.



llile said:
Why is a car so damned inefficient?

First, it has four seats. Almost all cars have four seats, even teeny little cars have four seats. And they are almost always side-by-side, making the car twice as wide as it would need to be to carry me and a sack of groceries, which is all that ever rides in my car 95% of the time. 2X frontal area = 2X air friction at the same speed. Bad design #1.

and you've got the climate-clobbering nightmare that is the modern Automobile.

Not bad design at all.. it is designed for what it is intended to do, inappropriate usage is more accurate, Just because you choose to use a vehicle unsuited to the task in hand does not make it a bad design.

Would you compare a building site dumper truck to a small two seater sports car and claim it is so inefficient because it has that huge rear tipper body, and it is built to carry 20 tonnes of boulders when all you need it for is to carry you and your wife to the cinema. Comparing an e-bike efficiency is as pointless as that to me. Can only be compared to another vehicle that does a simialr job so to me that is a 50cc or a 125 motorcycle or scooter, local run around transport


llile said:
Let's go with an energy conversion, instead of Dollar/pound/euro whatever to gas to battery cost.

Let's see, I've had two E-bikes - the first gets about 24 WH/Mile at 25 MPH and the second gets 53.5 WH/Mile at 35 MPH.
My most efficient car gets 40 MPG or 17 km/L. A hybrid might get 50 or 60 mpg.

1 gallon of gas contains +of+automotive+gasoline/to/kilowatt+hours]36.6 kilowatt hours, if it could be burned at 100% efficiency. The car is far from that, but we are counting energy in vs how far it goes, and the inefficiency of a car is partly due to the terrible efficiency of internal combustion, plus all the tons of mass they have to lug around.

40 MPG = 40/36.6 M/kWhr = 915 watthours per mile. In other words my car would suck down a decent sized E-bike battery before it gets to the next driveway. Hmmmm - do you think we can beat that with an E-bike?

For running cost, i can easily beat my e-bike with a 50cc or 125cc scooter, absolutely no doubt of that.

This is back to ignoring the replacement cost of the battery and just the electricity cost. I can see why people do this as it seems logical, but for my vehicle usage at least, there is no costs as big as a battery replacement. I suppose that depends where you live and the vehicle you drive. In my area, there is no road tax licence or similar or inspection fees. Costs are servicing, insurance and fuel. Any road tax is combined in the fuel cost here.

Every one can have their own method of calculating their costs, but what it comes down to at the end of a few years is cost out your pocket and for that a 125 scooter wins in my local area, not by much though .
Minimal servicing costs and maybe £100 a year or less insurance. My mate on his 125 gets an average of 120 mpg, which for 8000 miles is a little under of £360 for fuel for two years island motoring, plus two lots of insurance at £100 per year. So even adding an extra few £ for oil change still less that £600 in two years, so my cost of £600 cost of pack replacement ( and electricity usage) is a little higher.

OK, so you build a bike with a LIFePO4 battery pack, so it lasts longer but then you probably do not get the performance you do with a 100 volt LiPo pack, so you are not comparing like with like again.
 
jkbrigman said:
ebike = 19Wh/mile, so the improvement is 7209/19 = 379 times less energy than the car!
On the recumbent, at about 10 Wh/mile, we're looking at simply 720 times less energy than the car.

Hell, those are impressive figures, best I see on my e-bke is around 24 to 26Wh/mile averaging at 47.7 according to my spreadsheet of CA stats. flat out no pedalling usually results in about 60Wh/mile
 
In my area, they charge you with insurance so the costs aren't comparable. Insurance is like $700-1000/year, far more costly per annum than my $250 pack that's going to last 8 years. But, tis true, I'm not riding it like a scooter. Just an uber-efficient 15mph bike that can go 30mph on the rare occasion I need to.
 
£250 dollar pack that lasts 8 years? hell, that is good, what sort of mileage do you expect to get out of that sounds amazing, come on, what is the down side? is it SLA? low C rating?

My pack is 84 volt 20Ah 25C max of about 160 amps.

probably should also specify type of e-bike we are talking about when comparing efficiency, otherwise it is like comparing a car efficiency to that of the buidlign site tipper truck.



$1000 per year for 50cc motorcycle insurance that is incredible..but age is a factor too, I am 45 so insurance costs a lot cheaper..So i guess we really have to rule out insurance costs as part of the equation, as that is so dependant on driver age and the insurance risk area where you live.

So lets totally exclude insurance costs as that is no way related to vehicle running cost, that is down to demographics
 
NeilP said:
£250 dollar pack that lasts 8 years? hell, that is good, what sort of mileage do you expect to get out of that sounds amazing, come on, what is the down side? is it SLA?

$1000 per year for 50cc motorcycle insurance that is incredible..but age is a factor too, I am 45 so insurance costs a lot cheaper..So i guess we really have to rule out insurance costs as part of the equation, as that is so dependant on driver age and the insurance risk area where you live.

So lets totally exclude insurance costs as that is no way related to vehicle running cost, that is down to demographics

Well, the secret is...

I use it about 100 times out of the year and at about 1/2c on average. The battery pack is Lipo, and I keep it charged between 4.1v and 3.8v. During the winter months, I keep it stored in the basement where it freezes (Slows down aging by a factor of 4x-8x), and it's been doing remarkably well so far. The average trip is 5 miles, both ways, so at 5wh/mi, I use about 1ah-2ah out of my 20ah pack on average.

There's been studies done that using lithium batteries at 20% DOD extends lifespan to 1000s of cycles, so I'm liking it.

Of course, using the pack more aggressively would probably shorten its life to 1-3 years.
 
Damn that is a good one ...not using it ..that will really push up the efficiency of cost per year :p

I am doing on average 20 miles per day, often 40 or more, to about 7C and 50 to 60%DOD
 
The only way to make intelligent decisions about transportation costs, is to try to get a handle on costs per mile. My 2010 Subaru forester is costing me 65 cents per mile, plus maintenance. So far, not much of that because the car is newish. Trying to not drive it much, cost per month is crazy high, but I hope to have it around till 2025, giving me about 6-7 years with lower cost per month later. Cost per mile won't improve much, but cost per month will. I still expect it to even out better later.

Ebike, or gas moped calculate out at about 15 cents per mile for me. A great deal of that is battery cost for the ebike. If you ride much, you will spend $200 a year on batteries at least. This is the cost for one transportation ebike. Let's not even think about the fun budget bikes. :roll: Fun budget is always all the rest of your money after paying for food and a house.

MPG equivilant is more like cost per mile out of your pocket at a particular moment, and battery is not part of that. Battery is a perishable, but it's not cost of energy. It's more similar to cost of tires, lubrication oil, insurance, etc.

Comparing my ebike and my Subaru, The Subaru gets 26 mpg. $3.35 at the moment. 26 miles on the ebike, at say 30 mph, is 1.25 kwh. That is about 20 cents. To be fair, consider that at 30 mph, the Subaru might get as much as 40 mpg, so lets call it 2 kwh for 40 miles on the ebike. Now we can calculate based on 3.35 vs 30 cents.

Ballpark math, 400 mpg equivilant? That's a spectacular number.

But even the less spectacular number of 50 cents less per mile is still sounding nice to me. Ride ten miles, put five bucks in your pocket.
 
If I calculated this based on energy costs, and forgetting about the invested costs...

  • The average price of gasoline in Redmond, WA USA is about $3.89 USD.
  • The most expensive electric rate is about $0.12/kWh... but let me examine my last bill and figure out the average rate: Between April and May I used 520 kWh and they billed me $53.50 (includes taxes) which comes to about $0.103/kWh.
  • My Commuter pack on the 2WD ebike can go about 50 Seattle-hilly miles per charge. That pack is 15S6P -> 30 Ah @ 63V -> 1890 Wh. It takes about 2 hours to charge it with my custom Meanwell assembly, pulling not quite 1 kW from the wall.
Calculating...

1.890 kWh * $0.103 = $0.194 per charge for 50 miles. Cross-country costs more cos I get less return on capacity due to weight, but that's OT.

If I take the cost of a gallon of gas and divide that by my cost per recharge then I can develop a ratio of electric-mpg:

3.89/0.194 = 20.005 -> 20.005 * 50 miles = 1000.25 electric mpg

I'd say that's pretty dang good for a 2WD :mrgreen:
Lovin' it! KF
 
But again, that is not taking battery replacement cost in to account and I thing that should be taken in to account, it is a running cost as far as I am concerned.
It is a mileage dependant cost that on a ICE vehicle there is no equivalent of. ALl other costs are similar, like tyres etc.

insurance to me can't be counted, as for a motor vehicles that cost is dependant on: driver age, geographical location, and drivers past driving history.
 
With all of my packs still alive going back to 2008 other than the rc lipo pack that flamed out without ever having been used, I include battery costs as a fixed cost of the bike, not a variable cost like gas or electricity. My equivalent due to $5+/gal gas here is over 500miles per gallon on my highest performing ebike.
 
Well I only have used RC LiPO and the first pack has just died after 2 years, so that is another £800. If you had to replace the engine of the car and the complete fuel system every few years, and you called that a fixed cost too, I would agree, that it would be a fixed cost.

But what you call it, fixed or variable, it is irrelevant..it is a cost of ownership that varies with mileage. If I try and sell electric bikes to people and do not tell them that in 2-3 4 years they are gong to have to replace their batteries, they are not going to be happy when in three years time or less, they need to shell out a few hundred pounds for a new battery. It is a mileage cost as far as I am concerned.

If you sell it to people like that I feel you are being more honest with the cost of ownership and use
 
Maybe I should have phrased it differently.

I am trying to get an idea of cost per mile is on a range of our home built e-bikes.

maybe i should have said:

:lol: I don't care what your personal preferences are with relation to how you personally cost out your bike per mile costs, but could I please have your figures, so i can work out the cost per mile of the usage of the type of battery chemistry and power levels you use,

So how much does your battery pack cost and how many miles are you going to get out of it.
 
last time I figured them up for my Kona, it had cost me $0.32 cents a mile for the last 5 years.
My Miata cost me $0.29 a mile. I think my Honda MB5 cost me something like $0.07 a mile.

But then my 66 Ford Pickup cost me $100.00 a foot last year. I only drove it a grand total of 2 feet during 2012, to pull closer to the garage.
 
I highly prefer temporal based cost metrics over spatial based ones as, well, it tells you how much money you've lost and it's a far more comparable metric. Obviously, different kinds of vehicles get used differently; in particular, cars tend to be driven more than 10x as far as the average cyclist in a given year, so the higher mileage pushes down the cost per mile metric. That hides the fact a car costs a lot more to own and operate. I can get a really low cost per mile if I buy a bmw and drive it 30,000 miles this year.
 
NeilP said:
So how much does your battery pack cost and how many miles are you going to get out of it.

My main battery pack is an a123 9ah 50v that I got 'used' for $450 including charger and shipping. I have around 7000 miles on it with not decrease in capacity.
 
swbluto said:
Obviously, different kinds of vehicles get used differently; in particular, cars tend to be driven more than 10x as far as the average cyclist in a given year,

Totally depends on where you live. For a city dweller, with no need to levae town it could be the other way around, where as someone who moved to the city and family live outside the reverse can be true.

swbluto said:
That hides the fact a car costs a lot more to own and operate.

Precisely why I think if you are telling someone your cost per mile with a particularl battery chemistry you need to include battery replacement cost, otherwise that cost is hidden. If this were not tje case I would not have 5 almist new but dead e-bikes down the farm of various types. Kalhoff, izip, e-solex, 2x Thompson Euro Citys, and a Mercedes. They were all used for a year or two / three, battery capacities declined and owners have decided to not bother with them as they are too expensive to replace,

But comparing to car costs to my mind is irrelevant, you may as well comoare to cost of a truck on 50ft motorboat. You have to compare like with like.
 
Exactly, cost per mile for the battery is different from mpg equivalent. But it can be hard to pin down unless you keep really good records.

Some of my numbers will be close to guesses as a result. And some batteries got abused badly. Others sat unused in my hot climate too long at full charge. I got sick and barely rode bikes at all for two years. Prices include the charger when chemistry or voltage changed. Also shipping.

Lead. Badly abused. 50 cycles of 8 miles. cost $150. $.37 per mile

NiCad Badly abused 50 cycles of 8 miles. cost $250 $.62 per mile

Pingbattery treated ok 700 cycles of 10 miles. Cost $450 $.064 per mile

Pingbatery, treated ok but not used enough. 240 cycles of 15 miles Cost $650 $.18 per mile

Lipo. Really hard to pin down. Quite a bit of it just died waiting to be used. Or got noobed.
The best 72v 10 ah set got about 200 cycles of 7 miles in 2.5 years. Cost $740. $.52 per mile


You can see a huge difference between using a pingbattery and letting rot in a hot garage. The first one got many cycles per week, the second one sat waiting, while I hoped I'd feel better tomorrow. Denial that my illness was permanent led me to keep it charged ready to ride for too long. That wrecked the cost per mile of the second ping. It would seem that in my climate, a ping lasts 3-4 max, ridden or not. The lipo was used only on "fun" bikes, at 40-60 wh per mile. So that ruins your cost per mile. I don't think much about cost per mile of fun, only cost per smile. So 3-4 bucks for battery per outing was not so bad really.

NiCad and Lead just got hammered with harsh discharges. The NiCad ran way too big a motor for it's C rate. The lead just discharged too deep every cycle.

I'm currently running a new lipo pack that cost about $350. Chargers not included this time. Used mainly for grocery runs, or a more efficient version of the fun bike, It should see about 25 wh/mi discharges. Charging is conservative. A typical cycle is about 10 miles. Hopefully at least 300 cycles?

$.12 per mile? I hope? Retired and riding more again, It should get 200 cycles in a year. I doubt it will last more than 2 years.
 
Different, but similar and it is a figure that the general public can understand.

If you tell someone the cost per mile, they still can't compare it to what they know . If you work out a figure based on a fuel cost in your area and then give them that, they can instantly make a comparision

I would not include the charger, unless of course you buy a new one everytime you buy a new battery pack
 
Given the changed criteria where we have to include co$t of batteries into the mix...

Does that figure include the cost of connectors, the bus, and the revisions to the bus and connectors? Because these directly affect sag and efficiency.

The original LiFePO4 batteries that came with my kit were returned as damaged, and instead I opted to go with Zippy FlightMax 5S1P 15/2C 5Ah LiPo from HK. Each brick cost roughly $50 each (after shipping), and I have purchased 86 of them over 3 years, so that's $4300. I have spent at least $200 on APP and their tool, and easily that again in repairing them, followed by another $200 in replacement. Let's just make it an even $5k.

Of those 86 batteries, I use 18 for the "Commuter pack". The rest are divvied up into other packs used to extend my range for cross-country. The most I've ever used for a single trip was 78 in a 15S26P configuration. The average distance on that trip was about 150 miles/day.

I've had three separate charging systems in three years. The first was a 150W joke meant for LiFePO4; replaced after 6 months with a 350W Meanwell misfire assembly, which was replaced a year later by a better design using 1000W Meanwell assembly; figure about $600 altogether counting wire and connectors.

I don't own a BMS, but I do balance from time to time. I've used various concepts for that purpose, though generally speaking, the cost was about $300.

Right, so now were close to $6k in total investment after three years. I've traveled close to 10,000 miles, though we can deduct about 3,000 as cost-free cos I was on the road and didn't pay for the energy.

I previously calculated that I can go 1000.25 miles for the same cost as a gallon of petrol @ $3.89 USD.
(7000/1000.25) * 3.89 = $27.22 USD.

Wow, that's chimp change when compared to nearly $6k price tag to get there. Back to reality, I have traveled about 10k miles with about $6k investment which is about 1-2/3 miles/dollar, or about 6.48 miles/gallon. That's less than my 4x4 which gets between 11 to 14 mpg. But take heart: The mileage I'm getting as an EV goes up each year - if I were to stop tinkering. :wink:

There's no chance of that.

On the flip-side, I don't have to pay for a license for myself, or my ride, or for insurance - which equates to hundreds in savings.

I recently planned another road trip. These are fun, but they too have a cost running about $100/day cos the room at the motel is about $60-75/day + food and libation. Doesn't count repairs - if any. My family is gathering for the annual summer campfire. I calculated that if I could average 180 miles/day that it would take me roughly 5 days to get there... about $400 one way. The roundtrip plane ticket to fly south is about is about $200; they'd have to come get me and take me back - 2 hours each way by road using their gas. Still - it's cheaper when you do the calculus.

So the question that I have to the OP is... at what point does it become pointless to consider the costs of efficiency when determining "mpg", and by what barometer of reason should we be judgmental of encumbrance born onto us by hobby? I do this for fun, for exercise, for health, for my sanity - to give my mind something to do, for the challenge, to advance my comprehension, to share with others in an EV-commune, for bragging rights, as a resume piece, cos I'm a single goobery nerd, and cos I feel like I'm sticking it to The Man - wherever he may be. :twisted:

As it is, my investment is a complete tax write-off for my business, so there again I am saving 20-30% amortized over 5 years... I think. Out of the original 86 batteries I have 71 in good shape - ready to rumble anytime. There are 12 in the rework pile; I might be able to salvage up to a 1/3. That leaves 3 which were decommissioned; complete loss. Not a good record I suppose, but that first year was a pretty steep learning curve and really hard on the cells. Unless they're padded, going cross-country beats the crap out of my investment. The Commuter pack batteries are in really great shape after a year, and I haven't had to replace a single one - nor have any puffed one tiny bit. I suppose as a fledgling LiPo Daddy there's hope for me yet. Gawds helps me should I have kids!


To conclude, and I must - in terms of the commuter pack, my mileage increases with each passing season. As an owner of a large investment, I am a failure on my first year, perhaps earning a substandard passing grade on the second, and approaching a good steward in the third. I have made improvements to my ebike that have increased performance and extended my range. More will be required for the next road trip - though I expect the sticker shock will be less. Everything is relative. The only thing that is absolute is the period at the end of this sentence.

Safe travels, KF
 
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