Dingo2024
100 W
The Mighty Volt said:
why?
I just got one of theses in the UK (220v)......is it not the same?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230441562715&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ian
Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.
- Thread starter The Mighty Volt
- Start date
why?
I just got one of theses in the UK (220v)......is it not the same?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230441562715&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ian
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Maybe they are 110/220 compatible.
I got mine from the USA so I assumed it was 110.
If I had only known somebody in the UK was selling them.........
What sort of project you got going Dingo?
EDIT: Nah, I just checked, mine has a 110v sticker on it. Edison you twat.
I got mine from the USA so I assumed it was 110.
If I had only known somebody in the UK was selling them.........
What sort of project you got going Dingo?
EDIT: Nah, I just checked, mine has a 110v sticker on it. Edison you twat.
Dingo2024
100 W
What sort of project you got going Dingo?
still working on ironing out the bugs on my cyclone build.....got to get it to 100mph
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18130
looking at upgrades for throttle and controller atm.....oh also some wiring / connectors :wink:
Ian
still working on ironing out the bugs on my cyclone build.....got to get it to 100mph
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18130
looking at upgrades for throttle and controller atm.....oh also some wiring / connectors :wink:
Ian
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Good stuff Dingo.
There are very few Brits/Irish around here. I am in Ireland, and NovSierra is in the UK. I see very few ebikes in our part of the world.
There are very few Brits/Irish around here. I am in Ireland, and NovSierra is in the UK. I see very few ebikes in our part of the world.
GCinDC
100 MW
my 230w got red hot but it still took 3 long min to heat bullet enough. Tip broke in no time. Was just bad technique. Now w new iron, flux and tinning, 30 w is enough! Hardly need boost!novembersierra28 said:
CamLight
10 kW
Ya gotta' blame Tesla/Westinghouse for that one...Edison championed DC.The Mighty Volt said:EDIT: Nah, I just checked, mine has a 110v sticker on it. Edison you twat.
Dingo2024
100 W
The Mighty Volt said:Good stuff Dingo.
There are very few Brits/Irish around here. I am in Ireland, and NovSierra is in the UK. I see very few ebikes in our part of the world.
is there roll call on ES for us Brits/Irish?..........anyone interested?
Ian
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
CamLight said:Ya gotta' blame Tesla/Westinghouse for that one...Edison championed DC.The Mighty Volt said:EDIT: Nah, I just checked, mine has a 110v sticker on it. Edison you twat.
Yes, Edison championed DC and out of his "AC IS A KILLER" Campaign resulted the 110v programme the US follows, cos 110v is "safer".
One eighth of one amp across your heart can stop it.
Last time I checked, 110v was more than capable of supporting that kind of current.
As it happens, this little sucker arrived today:
And these arrived also:
They are actually a dark green but under the flash come up as the same blue on the HK and Ebay websites.
6 pins not 5
GCinDC
100 MW
I'm bashing JST-XH's again...
I've not had problems with the ones connected to my packs (after gluing them). I never have to remove them.
But the female JST-XH attached to BM6's (bottom two) fail and cause my BM6's to beep on and off ALL THE TIME. The middle one (before I got shrink tube :lol: ), failed immediately after I created it because of a loose JST-XH..
At top, my solution, soldered wires to BM6's...
I posted more about the final chapter of the mystery, here.
I've not had problems with the ones connected to my packs (after gluing them). I never have to remove them.
But the female JST-XH attached to BM6's (bottom two) fail and cause my BM6's to beep on and off ALL THE TIME. The middle one (before I got shrink tube :lol: ), failed immediately after I created it because of a loose JST-XH..
At top, my solution, soldered wires to BM6's...
I posted more about the final chapter of the mystery, here.
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
This is a total noob question, but how do you crimp the little connectors the ebike.ca sell?
I have trouble crimping in general, and these are so tiny.
The damn things always come apart.
When I solder them, they sometimes don't fit into the housing.
Do I need another tool beside a hardware store/ automotive style crimper?
I have trouble crimping in general, and these are so tiny.
The damn things always come apart.
When I solder them, they sometimes don't fit into the housing.
Do I need another tool beside a hardware store/ automotive style crimper?
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
auraslip said:
Can you post a pic of the item in question.? ta.
I have to be honest with you: I neither own nor use a dedicated crimp, I have a snipe nosed pliers used by jewelery makers and I just use that. It seems to work fine on the basic spade ends and even the small molex connections.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Yeah they look tricky alright. I did some similar molex types with a snipe, so you should be OK at that.
The great thing about the snipe/needle nose is that you can still hold it and properly see the item you are trying to crimp at the same time. I work off how the pliers feels in my hand and what I can see happening to the thing I am crimping.
The great thing about the snipe/needle nose is that you can still hold it and properly see the item you are trying to crimp at the same time. I work off how the pliers feels in my hand and what I can see happening to the thing I am crimping.
thedarlington
100 W
if anyone doesnt have experience soldering, has that expensive crimp tool, or even if you just need a couple connectors done, i highly recommend this seller from ebay all you gotta do is just twist wires together and tape them up thats it! ive been using these for the past 2 months and they really hold up well,
the price he charges is actually cheaper than what most of these connectors cost without being crimped, he sells them precrimped with a small piece of wire attached saving you the hassle and expense of crimping, theyre very well crimped, the only thing to fail on me in 2 months has been my own twisting because after 2 months i still havent soldered to the rest of the wire (havent really needed to) these are silicon wires so they dont dry and get hard like the rest of my ebk wiring
i just really hope he makes some money selling this stuff so cheap because i dont want him to close and stop selling these, they trully are wonderful for noobs like me who dont wanna shell out $40 for a crimper or some specialty soldering tool over 2-3 connections, he has andersons (i recommend), ultra deans, jst, and even some switches, might just have to pick up some of those for later, keep in mind all these connections are pretty small and i think well worth the price to avoid the hassle it got me off and running quick which is what i wanted
http://shop.ebay.com/niksternow2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
try this 2nd one if first doesnt work
http://myworld.ebay.com/niksternow2010/
the price he charges is actually cheaper than what most of these connectors cost without being crimped, he sells them precrimped with a small piece of wire attached saving you the hassle and expense of crimping, theyre very well crimped, the only thing to fail on me in 2 months has been my own twisting because after 2 months i still havent soldered to the rest of the wire (havent really needed to) these are silicon wires so they dont dry and get hard like the rest of my ebk wiring
i just really hope he makes some money selling this stuff so cheap because i dont want him to close and stop selling these, they trully are wonderful for noobs like me who dont wanna shell out $40 for a crimper or some specialty soldering tool over 2-3 connections, he has andersons (i recommend), ultra deans, jst, and even some switches, might just have to pick up some of those for later, keep in mind all these connections are pretty small and i think well worth the price to avoid the hassle it got me off and running quick which is what i wanted
http://shop.ebay.com/niksternow2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
try this 2nd one if first doesnt work
http://myworld.ebay.com/niksternow2010/
thedarlington
100 W
oh yea forgot i had a question for u guys lol, anybody know where i can get an rca style charger connector? the one i got was rca crimped to andersons but it came lose and its too small to solder, will any rca audio cable work or does it need to be special cuz theres 2 wires coming out, usually i think they only have 1 wire coming out
oldpiper
1 kW
thedarlington said:
RadioShack would be the easiest place. Just try to get lead-based solder for your soldering iron if you can, it's a LOT easier to work with than the antimony-based kind (Pb-based sticks to the metal, Sb-based has a really annoying tendancy to just roll off in a blob). I saw some Pb solder in an Ace (or maybe TrueValue) hardware store the other day.
Cameron
ronnieb52
100 W
www.monoprice.com
They have great deals. Check'em out.
They have great deals. Check'em out.
hi guys just been doing my 12awg wire upgrade for my hub motor,and came across a small problem my little 40w iron could not heat up the 12awg wire even with flux. so i had to get out my little gas torch it got the job done but i would rather of used a iron, what size iron is best for 12awg to 10awg?
GCinDC
100 MW
What's the best tool for removing the small contacts from common halls/throttle/ebrake connectors?
I've been using a sharp soldering iron poker, or lately, a straightened out dental tool..
But there gotta be a better way.
I find I have to hold connector w/ three fingers, poke w/ another two, and pull the wire with at least two... always awkward!
I've been using a sharp soldering iron poker, or lately, a straightened out dental tool..
But there gotta be a better way.
I find I have to hold connector w/ three fingers, poke w/ another two, and pull the wire with at least two... always awkward!
docnjoj
1 GW
I got a tool from Radioshack that looks like a metal syringe. Seven bucks and it works well on Molex male and female connectors for removal.
otherDoc
otherDoc
GCinDC
100 MW
Seriously? you use a metal syring for that? I'd definitely stab myself using that. :lol:docnjoj said:
There's gotta be a better tool. Anyone? Something that fits perfectly in the slot and depresses the contact spring. Sharp round stuff works but it slips off..
Alan B
100 GW
GCinDC said:Seriously? you use a metal syring for that? I'd definitely stab myself using that. :lol:docnjoj said:
There's gotta be a better tool. Anyone? Something that fits perfectly in the slot and depresses the contact spring. Sharp round stuff works but it slips off..
No, this "metal syringe like" tool works, but is for round pins. It consists of a thinwall tube just the right size to slip in and hold the locking tabs down while the pin plus tube is slid out of the connector body. It is not sharp or small. It only works for one size of round pin Molex. Probably not what you want.
oldpiper
1 kW
Alan B said:GCinDC said:Seriously? you use a metal syring for that? I'd definitely stab myself using that. :lol:docnjoj said:
There's gotta be a better tool. Anyone? Something that fits perfectly in the slot and depresses the contact spring. Sharp round stuff works but it slips off..
No, this "metal syringe like" tool works, but is for round pins. It consists of a thinwall tube just the right size to slip in and hold the locking tabs down while the pin plus tube is slid out of the connector body. It is not sharp or small. It only works for one size of round pin Molex. Probably not what you want.
You could also use a piece of stiff tubing just small enough to slip around the pin - push the pin in a little, then, holding it there, slip the tubing around it. That way the tubing will compress the locking fins, you then can just pull the pin out because the tubing will follow until it hits the fin-stop, and the fins will not spread until the pin is out.
If you don't have tubing exactly the right size, you can use heat-shrink, just be careful to stop the heat when the tubing is fairly loose around the pin, not grabbing tight.
Cameron
