In the 2009-2011 timeframe, I converted a 1985 VF500 from gas to electric using an Enertrac MH602 10kW motor and Kelly controller, and 7kWh (36 x 60Ah) ThunderSky LiFePO4 batteries. It was a great conversion and I rode it pretty consistently until early 2019, then put it in storage and never...
A couple of years ago, i killed the controller in my 2007 Zapino scooter. I started a thread about it here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=74412. In that thread, along with help from ES, I found the controller is really two smaller controllers. The motor is a BLDC hub motor...
Cool. Thanks. I found a bunch of spoked wheels, but they mostly have 1.4 or 1.6" rims, so can only go to 2.5" tires. I did end up getting the solid wheel parts that ElectricGod posted. Still working on it, but I'll report back when I get it all installed.
Thanks! I didn't think about getting the rims separate from the hub. Now I just need to get it to work with a dropout that expects a 15mm axle. :) Thanks!
Hi folks.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that sells a 10" scooter wheel that has both a disc brake mount as well as a sprocket mount? I've mostly found 10" wheels with disc brakes and an inline motor mount, or 10" wheels with a sprocket mount and a drum brake, but not both.
I did...
Yeah, true. I also have my VF500 conversion (using an Enertrac MH602 hub motor), so I'll just ride that instead.
(until I pull the thundersky batteries out of that to replace with Enerdels)... :-D
I took measurements. The groups are isolated. The resistance is 0.25 ohms with two of the other three wires in a group, whereas open with the other group of three wires.
Do you think it's really a 6 phase controller? I thought it was basically two 3 phase in parallel.
I don't know that much about motor setup, so I'm just guessing.
In any case, I can measure the resistance, but I'm not sure of what combinations you want.
I may give repairing the controller a shot, but probably not. I pulled the trigger on a Revolt RV-160 Short and am having fun trying to figure out how to make that work. :)
OK, so I finally got to the smaller controller. Guess what. There's another one inside!
Well, no. Just kidding.
Here's a pic: (Note all pics are clickable to full size versions)
I ended up cutting the phase and power wires because I don't think the black controller case has two...
This is pure speculation at this point, but heat could definitely have played an issue in me killing it. After a couple of years sitting in my garage, I swapped out the 5 SLA batteries for a 60V pack of Enerdel batteries. The weight went from around 280 to 190 lbs. It became super fun to ride...
So now I know why there are 6 hall sensor wires and 6 drive phase wires.
Here's a pic of the controller. Nothing special, nor indicative of what's inside.
I wasn't expecting this when I opened it up:
It's like the russian nesting dolls of controllers. It's got two smaller controllers...
That was when pulling the yellow phase/drive wire. When I checked each individual hall sensor, they all seemed to be functional.
I've been busy with family and Thanksgiving stuff, so haven't had a chance to crack open the controller. Hopefully that'll happen tomorrow. i'll report back with...
Ok. I built jumper wires using 0.093 molex pins like so:
And then shrink wrapped them:
Then put them inline like this:
When I removed them one at a time, I saw the following:
Blue: wheel ran smooth
Yellow: no change (wheel cogged)
Green: wheel ran smooth
Red: wheel didn't run at all...