Recent content by bikes4two

I have a front hub 250w bike with KT controller and I have not fitted in line brakes to it as the motor power stops as soon as I stop pedalling, so IHMO I'd say that you don't need the brake UNLESS riding fixed wheel.

Good job on the striped own but I hope you will be having serious words with whom ever thought it ok to pressure wash an ebike 🥴

For an OLN of 100mm there's two more to think about: the Aikema 100SX (2.1kg) and the Bafang G370 (1.7kg)

Firstly, well done on your bench testing - clearly you are a person who likes a challenge. OSF (Open Source Firmware) was developed by group of rather clever people to replace the factory loaded (OEM) firmware to improve the ride options not normally available to the end user. I am a not a...

If from an ebike you are looking for the motor to the majority or a significant amount of the work, then some might find the TSDZ2 lacking. However, if you have been or were say, a keen cyclist on unassisted bikes and are now looking for some assistance just to replace that lost through...

I've done 5 conversion, all with the rear derailleur cable going under the BB and in all cases I've been able keep the cable routed that way by removing the normal screw-in cable guide and running the gear cable inner through a short length (150-200mm) of gear cable outer and then securing each...

I've no access to the app nor have I used a smart BMS but on reading this thread I'm wondering if it might just mean ON or OFF?

That's a lovely looking retro bike for sure but the brakes ....... simple rim brakes of the sort that might have problems giving effective braking even under normal circumstances but with the added weight of a motor and battery ....... ?

Just to add a little to this good advice: 1. The pedal crank bolts need to be really tight - in fact to 40nm which is way beyound what most DIY bike mechanics achieve without a torque wrench (in the YT vid in post #12 the guy tightens the crank bolt with an impact driver - I'd be very confident...

Search YT for 'TSDZ2 motion study final' for a great animation and you'll see that it is likely that the sprag clutch in the main gear wheel is the issue.

Woop woop woop! Replacing those 4 bearings has done the trick - bare motor re-assembled and fitted back into the TSDZ2 body and the motor now runs as quiet as the one on my other bike. Of the three old 61800 RS bearings, one of them didn't feel quite as smooth as the other two by the meerest...

I've ordered up replacement bearings (4 in number) but in the meantime I've knocked up a diagram and documented (in draft) some info which others might find useful. When I've re-assembled everything with the new bearings, I'll update this post as to whether the noisy motor is no more - fingers...

In answer to my own question, the rotor spindle can be removed from the motor casing by first removing the black connector block which exposes the spindle end, then a light tap with a suitable drift will spearate the spindle from the casing. Using a drift might not even be necessary - a sharp...

Yes, bought both TSDZ2 from pswpower within a few weeks of each other. Both have OSF on them. I swapped the bare motor units between bikes and seeing as the noise moved over with the motor, there's no logical reason that I can think of to swap over the controllers, can you? Further, the...

Hi @ilu, So I swapped over the hall sensors between the bare motor bodies and the noisy motor stayed being the noisy motor, but at least I've eleminated the halls sensors as the cause of the problem. The noisy bare motor is back on the bench and during strip-down I saw how to separate the...