Recent content by chris_m

Not sure if this question is out of place here, but I'll try: My mom has an old Gardena lawn mower which takes a 36V 3.0Ah Li-Ion battery. This battery connects to the mower with a plug that has six wires: Red-Brown-ThinRed-ThinBlack-Blue-Black The Red and Brown are marked with + + and the Blue...

Right. I’ll open it up when I get a chance and report back. Thanks everyone for your input. If imbalance is ruled out it seems resistive motor leads are the next (and only?) remaining suspect then? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I checked the connectors but they look good. Also wouldn’t a bad connection cutout occur more randomly? My problem always occurs very predictably (throttle operation or pas 5) So battery imbalance is ruled out then? Is it possible to check for resistive leads to the motor? If so how...

Ok. So tried the bike after a week of keeping the battery plugged into the charger. Seems like there is no difference. Still cuts out at high load on pas 4 or throttle. Voltage does not seem to drop at all. Display shows around 52v when it cuts out. Next step I believe would be to see if the...

Ok. It definitely sounds like an imbalance problem then. How do I manually rebalance cells? Aren’t they soldered together? Which kind of charger should be used to charge single cells? I’ve now left the battery plugged in for a week. I’ll see if this helped in a few days. Thanks again...

Hey, thanks for the very helpful responses! Great. I will try this, hopefully that will be it! But in order to balance cells, would I have to discharge the battery a bit before charging again, or just keep it plugged in for many days, and it could potentially balance itself? Display does not...

Hey folks, I installed a KT36/48SVPR-20A with a 48V battery on an old Wisper bike with a BFUN8 250W, and it's been running great until the other day. Suddenly (after my wife used the bike to pull a heavy trailer) the power cuts out as soon as the load increases slightly. I noticed this happens...

Awesome. 18% grin is def worth 18% more wear on the gears. And Maybe the LCD3 actually does have the ability to turn the power down in case I’m grinning too much. 20A it is then and maybe that bbq thermometer? Anyone installed that? Which kind? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But isn’t that the max output? So that would be occasionally. I was told by someone much more savvy than me this would be ok. I think those motors marked 250 often actually are more in reality? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so 17a would be safer then? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am rebuilding an old bike with a BFUN 250w rear hub motor to run on a 48v battery. I was told to get a 17a (350w) KT controller from PSW Power. But I see the size of the next one up 20a (500w) is the same and will fit on the bike. Would that also work? Pros/cons? Thanks Chris Sent...

I checked all the connectors and it's 4.37V on all of them. Could this really mean the controller is a lemon?

No, same problem (brake symbol showing on LCD) when brakes are unplugged. And it won't run.

Oh, sorry. Was checking voltage between signal and ground bc that's the only two cables that are used by the brake levers. I checked now. black to red is 4.30V. Signal to Gnd is 0.68 when connected and brake is not engaged, and drops to 0.02 when brake lever is engaged.

I just installed a new kit, but the display shows the brake sensor symbol and the bike won't run. It's a KT-LCD5 and the controller is from PSW Power KT36/48SVPR-17A I have unplugged everything, checked all the soldering and wires inside and outside the box. All looks fine. Voltage between...