Recent content by rafzan

Ill surely check his store!! I have already seen these freewheels, but didn't notice the other products. Since i'm brazilian and importation here can cost up to 110% of the original value, i prefer to buy things locally, but can't do it with some really specific things. as an example, I was...

Hello, thanks for the reply. Good to know the 4 brushes should touch the center. The spring is ok, and the brush is just "locked" up there. When its down, the motor makes a strange noise. Ill try making a video. The thing that's damaged its the soldering from the wire - its kinda oxidated (you...

Also, when i opened up the motor, i remembered this strange thing: https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/943207_10201247266089584_936599931_n.jpg There is one brush that's strangely disconnected. When i put it to work, the motor make a strange noise. If you look on the wire...

6:1.... And 4:1. Then I have 10:1 suggested reduction. I hope i'm right. Please correct me if not so. These pulleys were really expensive. Now i gotta work the motor shaft and the smaller pulley so they can interact.

Here i'm working on a aluminum chainring adapter and drinking some stella. This shit won't end up beautiful, but functional its ok to me. Smooth edges where the bolts will be touching, to give it firmness Here is the finished freewheel chainring: I would use the white industries...

I cutted the frame where the crank arms were touching it. Ill have to buy new crank arms as these ones are HORRID. Look at the second pic. Don't mind the soda bottle chain guides... that's why i bought the PVC on the third pic... Also bought a lot of materials and some swag to work on the bike.

For future references, This is a brushed GOLDEN MOTOR "1000W', with a YI-YUN controller. This controller had burned all three FETs, they were "K4145". Following advice on this board, i substituted them for "IRFZ48N", first ones who could handle 30V and 60A i could find. At the same stage i...

Hello ES members! I'm a newcomer to the electric bike subject. Been studying physics and electric vehicles for a while and now i thought it was time to go further. A friend told me about this guy, Andre Hayashi, who was selling his e-bike project. He was a product design student at the time...

Yes, thats a unite motor. I'll try this fan thing... I also bought a little 16-teeth crank, ill try using it since i don't have any kind of reduction drive planned. ***Also, do you know what temperature could be dangerous? Maybe i can add a thermometer to the project. I have a spare one that...

oh, here's a pic:

Since i removed the FET and the controller is working again, i imagine it cant deliver 20A of current it is supposed to, since the multimeter is reading 38~42V with the throttle (i am using a POT since the hall sensor is not working) at full speed. Am I right? I can't test at all because i am...

Hello! Thanks for the reply. The display is OK. Idk why it is showing this U... :lol: I was aware of the fact that diode testing is polarity sensitive, you can see on the pics i used the same probe color on the FETs but thanks for the advice! While nobody answered, i had the idea to remove...

Looks like i have found the problem... LOOKS like. The NEC's K4145 reads like this, for continuity tests: PINS G & D: U87 PINS G & S: U84 the middle NEC K4145 reads different. PINS G & D: U21 PINS G & S: U18 So, i GUESS that should be the problem (if this is the only problem), since the...

Oh, also, nothing looks burnt or damaged, everything is just in its right place.

Controller: Transistor #1 (NEC - K4145 - 09KS): Transistor #2 (7815): Transistor #3 (705 - |>|-|<| - HBR20100): That's it. I tried the tests available on ebikes.ca but it gave me different results for every FET type. Any help would be wonderful. I think i can buy new components and fix...