Recent content by Tetrault

Just the bottom bracket shell and the seat tube (and an inch or 2 of the down tube) left from the original frame. The top of the seat tube needs support because it will be separated from the bottom of the seat tube to make room for the rear shock. Used 1/2" square tube. Honed out the inside of...

Yes, that's right. And as usual, I'm wrong. As for a cartridge style, the US Radwagon 4 uses an 84x154mm; they don't sell online but will if you call.

Rectangular tubing in the previous post is tacked into place, connecting the new head tube to the new frame box. And then some MIG welds, complete with plenty of fish eyes... As if those crater cracks didn't give it away, I now see that I should have moved all my scrap practice welds off...

I don't know much about bikes, but are you sure it is an 80mm shell? Doesn't seem like a standard width. And, what is wrong with the shaft?

I'm not yet confident that the bike will be all that ridable, but I'm fairly certain that, with wheels, it will roll, and won't need to be carried :) The 4 short sections of rectangular tubing to attach the new head tube* to the new box frame are notched. I ended up modeling the whole front of...

Wow, and I thought I had an okay handle on the CA from reading the grin website... Thanks for the input. It seems the "unofficial" guide has info on converting between different types of CA's. Good stuff.

Tacking in the connections between the box and the bottom bracket shell. The ugly angle iron and bolts with spacers are fixturing to ensure the new rectangular frame box is lined up and centered along the old down tube (again, all the "red" tubing be cut away). If it is rectangular tube, then it...

Just on/off. Which is fine. It is the voltage-based that bothers me. I don't want the bike to do a full-amperage rush up to a certain speed every time I touch the pedals. Sure, it is kind of a fun novelty at times, but I much prefer the PAS that adds a set wattage when pedaling. By adjustable, I...

Yes, I realized posting that picture that things are getting strange looking. The red frame (along with the plate connecting the head tubes) will be mostly cut away, except for the bottom bracket shell and some of the seat tube. I only plan on building this one frame, so a frame jig seems way...

Thanks for pointing this out. The bike has a dispaly with little to no adjustability and a controller with voltage-based PAS. I primarily use PAS, not throttle, and I much prefer an adjustable power-based PAS. I was considering replacing the display with a stand alone Cycle Analyst as a...

This probably doesn't make much sense to others yet, but here is the rectangular box being fit on to the "jig" (the old bike frame that will eventually be mostly cut away). The bike would be upside down here, with the down tube horizontal across the upper part of the picture.

This is an OEM ebike with some variation of a bafang fat hub motor. The male and female ends screw together similar to an L1019 motor connector. It appears to be a Higo L1114. Is this a common connector? Does anyone know of an online source to buy just a single (or a couple) sets of these types...

The plan is, if this actually turns out to be a rideable bike, to get some type of rectangular hard case battery. The front triangle will be used just to center the new rectangular box frame. Nothing exciting here, but getting the main box shape tacked up.

I don't ride quads, but sitting low seems to make a lot of sense from a stability perspective. Cool. Do you see a need for fenders to protect the rider from direct contact with the tires or indirectly from flinging rocks and mud?

The swing arm above will replace the original rear triangle in order to allow for a rear suspension, stretch out the wheelbase for added stability at speed, fit a high-tooth-count chainring, and 2.5"+ wide tire (not sure yet). It is made of 1/2"x1"x0.065 steel tube. The bottom bracket shell...