i connected plus minus wrong and now it turns off with me on it but works fine suspended in air with no rider i130lb. my specs are:48v13S 15amp 1000watt 3led ear 1000watt 48vdc hub motor kit non circle connections r,y blade and soderless bring conections on a yellow 3 for motor 2 for power incased board i tested for mosfet damage none i got ebike testor ckecks out so now what???g motor colors standard hall wires
shorted? plus and minus
- Thread starter Rocko
- Start date
Maybe a battery issue, when you require more amps because of your weight on top of the bike, cells can sag and BMS shut down. Are you trying this on a full charge battery? Do you have any way to measure each series voltage?
docw009
1 MW
It's a new conversion? Then your battery is shutting off under load. Is it connected securely to the controller.? If you used weak crimps, or not so great screw terminals, they won't allow enough current to run the bike with you on it.
Is it a decent battery? Not one like this 100000mah piece of junk?
By the way I've have more than a few incidents where I short circuited a battery, but the battery BMS circuits did their job, shutting down the battery quickly to prevent damage, I doubt the reverse connection is causing what you see.
Is it a decent battery? Not one like this 100000mah piece of junk?
By the way I've have more than a few incidents where I short circuited a battery, but the battery BMS circuits did their job, shutting down the battery quickly to prevent damage, I doubt the reverse connection is causing what you see.
yes well here is an update battery's good brand new bms its controller i guess when i crost lines - n + i shorted something to were my bike still works but as soon as i pull throttle shuts down but if i fether it pull till gets to red led stay on but it go red red go,s out shut off leds are green yellow red i get in middel of the street and it shuts down the hole system is only like 3 months old, i tested the mosfets as power - and + to motor leads test fine but when i test with continuity black mutitester lead to black and test wire out of controle with red mutitester lead red power beeps and ped red beeps i not useing ped at all so what am i missing it a component and i got a garadge full of electronic everytrhing but i do not understand how find what it is ??
without a significant load on the motor the battery is only asked to provide a fraction of the power to spin the back wheel, however when you ask more from the battery by adding the load (130lbs is not a load in the usual sense of the word, but we are talking physics stuff here) to spin the motor the same requires significantly more battery power and at this level the problems surface.. what the problem is beyond my ken
but thats why there are friendly experts in here to help us muggles.. , but as its a new kit this in itself may be enough to warrant a replacement from the supplier
You may have blown a trace off the controller board or blew a shunt resistor. I suggest opening up the controller and make a careful visual inspection of the board.
iteresting detuction i did not think of that but thats were i am at i contemplating it being a resistive ishu as every thing works it just turns off as i try to ride it nonmail mofets tested good but like i said i tested continuity with power and red line of power beep and red on ped assist beeps i do not have ped connected so it seems ?to resistive ishu?
It could be something simple like a bad solder joint on a part somewhere. Sometimes a problem will be obvious, other times not, but there is not much to lose by visually inspecting the insides.
I wish it was that easy I about to take it apart again its current resistor i believe or something in that area has to be red pos. Tested bad with continuity with power in were blk to blk (black) multimeter red checking wires out of control red pow. And red ped witch is not used ever I just got new one and it will not work now I am real bummed
Ya i am 140 150lb.but that's jot it at all I blew something to do with current for sure but mosfets test goodwithout a significant load on the motor the battery is only asked to provide a fraction of the power to spin the back wheel, however when you ask more from the battery by adding the load (130lbs is not a load in the usual sense of the word, but we are talking physics stuff here) to spin the motor the same requires significantly more battery power and at this level the problems surface.. what the problem is beyond my ken
When you connect the battery two things normally happen. You blow the main capacitor/s and/or you blow the shunt. If the capacitor/s are blown, you could get the problem you've described. Also, if the shunt became a bit unsoldered or a bit melted off, it's resistance would increase, which would cut down the current that the controller allows. You need to inspect both those things carefully. You can check the capacitor/s by disconnecting the battery then shorting the battery wires on the controller side. You should get a nice spark as the capacitor/s discharge. You have to visually check the shunt on both sides of the pcb, and if it's a solid state one, you might need to replace it if you can't measure it.