Bending the fork on purpose?

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Hummina Shadeeba

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I bought this scooter:

Can I bend the fork for more trail n more stability?
.
Does this have any trail? It seems not. I could cut a new slot in the fork for the front wheel closer to the blades and then would have trail and more stability I think. No?
 

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Moving the wheel back on the fork would definitely add trail, whether that would add stability is up to your interpretation. I would think the loss in wheelbase and the resultant forward weight shift would more than counteract the added trail, but I also don't ride scooters. If that's a standard 1 1/8" headset, there are angled options that would add trail and wheelbase.
 
Oo yea sorry please move it to scooters


I’ve never had a scooter. I’m putting a pair of skate hub motors mounted on trucks on the back and will be a trike and that should add some stability.

I think moving the wheel 6mm further in will form some trail where as it is here it has maybe none or negative trail? The fork and headtube are in line and results in a small angle With the fork offset the two lines don’t cross image.jpg
 

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That scooter looks like it's going to trip over its big toe it seems as if the front wheel should be out further out front but the design is the design.
Like Italian shoes they might look good in the window but we try them on you can't get your foot in there and you surely can't walk in them
 
Did you test it? Such as down a steep hill? There’s a speed beyond which it’ll be unacceptable, for sure, and everyone’s sketchiness tolerance differs, but you might find it’s actually acceptable up to about 30mph, possibly a little more.
 
glennb said:
Did you test it? Such as down a steep hill? There’s a speed beyond which it’ll be unacceptable, for sure, and everyone’s sketchiness tolerance differs, but you might find it’s actually acceptable up to about 30mph, possibly a little more.
Click to expand...
I’ve been riding and it’s very sketchy above 15mph. I think it really needs to have some trail added or something.
 
15mph is about what the vehicle’s designed for, so, yeah, that’s not a huge surprise, although I would’ve expected it’d be ok up to at least 20mph.

I agree with cutting new dropout slots. You’ve got just enough clearance to do so.
 
Here's a stand-up scooter need a helmet elbow pads that little turtle thing on your back maybe a blow up suit in case you're crash. Wire Up a kill switch least to the wrist. And a life insurance policy ?
Anyway I've seen him go well over 40 miles an hour.
Get your kicks.
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A added a slot and it’s more stable. I still can’t imagine it being relaxing going over 20mph but with a skate truck on the rear and becoming a trike I think that’ll help.

The skate truck I’ll put on the rear needs a horizontal surface or it’ll end up twitchy like the front. I’m hoping I could straighten the angle out of the two rear tubes somehow then I’ll weld or bolt on a plate. How would you straighten these two tubes on the rear?

(I’ll add holes in the front dropouts so can use that washer with the hook so don’t lose my wheel.)
 

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The second picture in post #7 doesn't show trail correctly.
1) Red steering axis line should follow perpendicularity of the headtube of the frame not the fork leg.
2) Red line from the axle should be vertical to the ground plane.
It is a very different number when measured correctly.
With the axle now closer to the fork blade maybe the fork can install backwards for even more trail.
( Providing the tire doesn't hit the frame )
Instead of bending the rear frame create height to mount the skate board truck with a wood block.
Wood and bolts instead of bending.
 
PaPaSteve said:
The second picture in post #7 doesn't show trail correctly.
1) Red steering axis line should follow perpendicularity of the headtube of the frame not the fork leg.
2) Red line from the axle should be vertical to the ground plane.
It is a very different number when measured correctly.
With the axle now closer to the fork blade maybe the fork can install backwards for even more trail.
( Providing the tire doesn't hit the frame )
Instead of bending the rear frame create height to mount the skate board truck with a wood block.
Wood and bolts instead of bending.
Click to expand...
Yea the trail is figured with headtube angle and on this the fork is in line with headtube

Any ideas on how to bend the rear? I’d like to not have to add more parts and it would keep the deck level.
 
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Frame is probably mild steel ? Not cro/mo ?
Use 4 nuts and washers with threaded rod between the dropouts to control / contain straightness in that section.
A snugly cut block between the tubes at the bends might be helpful as well.
Clamp the rear of the frame to the welding bench / flat surface and pull down on the front section of the frame.
A couple bar clamps or ratchet straps is probably enough pull power.
Flat surface could be a short piece of 2" X 8" board etc.
 
PaPaSteve said:
Instead of bending the rear frame create height to mount the skate board truck with a wood block.
Wood and bolts instead of bending.
Click to expand...
PaPaSteve said:
Clamp the rear of the frame to the welding bench / flat surface and pull down on the front section of the frame.
Click to expand...
Are you suggesting the frame be bent downward on either the front or rear, or both ends? If true, I disagree. Assuming a steel frame (check w/magnet), the proper fix is tilting the headtube rearward, 2 maybe 3 degrees.
 
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Papa said:
Are you suggesting the frame be bent downward on either the front or rear, or both ends? If true, I disagree. Assuming a steel frame (check w/magnet), the proper fix is tilting the headtube only (or as close as possible), rearward, 2 maybe 3 degrees.
Click to expand...
The task in question as I understand it : is to bend the rear section of the main frame to flat / horizontal so it more closely matches the smaller diameter of skate board wheels . . . correct ?
 
PaPaSteve said:
The task in question as I understand it : is to bend the rear section of the main frame to flat / horizontal so it more closely matches the smaller diameter of skate board wheels . . . correct ?
Click to expand...
Raising or lowering either end of the frame, affects steering geometry. Raising the rear, for example, would increase negative trail... not good. Likewise, lowering the rear would be additive to positive trail. So the modified rear frame height should be established before the steering geometry is modified.
 
My goal at this point is bending the rear so it’s level with the rest of the standing area so can mount a skate truck on a horizontal surface. Maybe be easier to cut the rear off and weld it back level.
 
Are you sure about the trike format? I wouldn’t do that. To corner at any kind of speed, even with trucks with super soft elastomer, you’ll have to lean so much that you’ll need really wide handlebars, the outside wheel will be off the ground, and it’ll be a battle to correct your line if you misjudge the corner.

As to straightening the bend out of the rear … It’ll be mild steel, for sure, and there’s no harm in trying (because but you can always cut the rear end off and make a new one), but I think you’ll be displeased with the results of bending, whatever method you use, and the only compelling reason to do it would be if the affixed dropouts and/or brake mounts were useful to retain.
 
It can be done, but the trucks need to center pivot - not rigidly mounted

Revenge of the Tricycle

Honda actually introduced its first new version of the tilting configuration in November 1981, as the NV50 Stream
www.icenicam.org.uk

1727482814156.png
 
The skate truck can pivot and you can lean. The design of a push scooter with a skate truck on the back was done

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