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  1. S

    Controller overheating! Could it be wrong phase/hall combo?

    I have no idea. I guess the damaged wires were also causing the issue so when I fixed them it wouldn't overheat so fast but after using it for a little while I discovered that the overheating issue is not solved.. Also now the wires are not getting hot, just the controller itself...
  2. S

    Controller overheating! Could it be wrong phase/hall combo?

    Hi! I have a 72v 35A generic controller that is overheating! Could the phase/hall combination be wrong? Phases are: Yellow to Yellow Green to Blue Blue to Green Hall sensor wires are wired with the same colours When I take the cover off only the 2 big caps are really hot and nothing...
  3. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    I fixed the hall wire ends, and everything works great now! Thank you all for your help!
  4. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    I strengthened all phase wire ends and the overheating issue stopped!After a long uphill test the controller was just warm! The only thing left now is to also strengthen the hall sensor wire ends where they plug in the connector from the motor side.When I accelerate from a stop there is a...
  5. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    I replaced the little gate driver with the one from my old controller and it now WORKS!! Thank you all for your assistance! The overheating issue persists however. The only thing I know is that the phase wire ends are pretty much destroyed from fiddling around, but I think they make good...
  6. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    I finally found what the issue is! There is a shorted gate driver on the negative side of the green phase mosfets! 1HC Is written on top of the transistor. I also found 1HC transistor on my old controller can I take that and replace the shorted one on my current controller?
  7. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    I measured these smal fets (They are the gate drivers right?) and none of them are shorted,they all have the same corresponding resistance per circuit(out of these 6) I also measured each resistor and capacitor on the board and nothing is shorted, everything has resistance! Moreover I found out...
  8. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    Hi and thank you all for your help! This is where I short circuited the board(at the red circle). Also there is a little burn mark on the second mosfet's drain pin but it didn't get damaged This is what my controller looks like Can you guide me as to what I have to check? I only have a...
  9. S

    SOLVED! Blown Controller Mosfets!Is it worth replacing?

    Hi! After fixing an overheating issue,I forgot that I left my controller on,after troubleshooting.When I put the cover back on I shorted the first mosfets' pins resulting in it exploding and other 2 mosfets shorted between drain and source.Is it worth replacing the damaged mosfets,or the whole...
  10. S

    SOLVED! Controller overheating

    I discovered that the yellow phase wire coming from the motor was damaged and didn't make good contact.When I would move it around sometimes the throttle worked and sometimes it wouldn't.Also after running the motor like this the yellow wire became really hot and I wasnt even riding it,I was...
  11. S

    SOLVED! Controller overheating

    Hi! I fastened the screws a bit until they were really tight again but I dont think they came lose.I will test again however and report here if the overheating continues.
  12. S

    SOLVED! Controller overheating

    Hi! I have a generic 72v 35A controller.I have stress tested it a lot when I first got it,and it ran fine without any issues(this was around a month ago).Yesterday I was riding on flat road with medium throttle until it overheated so much that I almost burned my hand when I touched to check.The...
  13. S

    Multi-BMS Setup! Will it work?

    My controller is just a cheap Chinese 48v-72v so I suppose the LVC is around 39v(3 volts per cell for a 13s(48v) battery). With my current setup the BMS'es are only for charging and balancing. I don't need the lvc, as my speedometer also shows battery voltage so I will not let it drop below 60v...
  14. S

    Multi-BMS Setup! Will it work?

    Thanks for your reply! I forgot to mention that each 10s4p pack will have its own bms! I made a schematic so it is a lot easier to see everything I finished the wiring yesterday and tested around the block.It seems fine to me and it even gained a little more top speed(because of the bypassed...
  15. S

    Multi-BMS Setup! Will it work?

    HI! Thanks for your reply! To avoid connecting each individual group of each pack together, Will there be an issue if just bypass all the bms'es and just connect the packs as previously? (2 10s4p packs and another 2 in parallel and those groups in series).Each pack will have its own bms and they...
  16. S

    Multi-BMS Setup! Will it work?

    Hi! I found genuine 10s4p packs of Samsung ICR18650-26F of only 90€ each(and 2.25€ per cell).I also had one same pack from a previous ebike build so I ordered 3 of these packs and I now have a complete battery pack for my e-moped.I have wired 2 of these in parallel and another 2 of these in...
  17. S

    TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

    Hello and special thanks for everyone's contribution to this amazing firmware and work! Im currently running the vlcd5 version of OSF with the temperature sensor installed,and planning to upgrade to a better display! However Im really short on cash and Im really considering if the 860c display...
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