1 year capacity loss percentage results in my packs

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For those who are interested. Not exactly scientific but results should be close enough.

I ran all these packs through my powerlab 8 charger from 4.1 volts to 3.7 volts discharging around 4 amps for my 6s packs. Discharge stopped when lowest cell hits 3.7 volts.

I tested each pack at November 2013 and again at November 2014.

The packs were used about 4 to 5 times per week from June through September. The packs also stayed in my bike in my hot garage reaches 90's in the summer.
I didn't use the batteries much during the winter and didn't use the bike for a full 3 months during this time also. Some packs stayed in the garage during the winter some in the basement which is around high 50's F during the winter.

My guess would be around 100-150 cycles for the year.

Batteries are all Turnigy 6s 20C 5000 lipo.

6 packs were brand new at the beginning of the 1 year test.

Because of my very large battery size 2700 watt hours, the packs didn't see high discharge and charge rates on them.

Packs were usually run from 4.1 charged, down to about 3.7 to 3.75.

I mostly always charged right before riding and almost always had my cells discharged and stored around 3.75 volts.

I ran 24 packs but converted down to 21 packs recently and removed 3 packs about a month ago. Those packs are not in the test.

Capacity loss in 1 year.

Average of all 21 packs capacity loss = 6.23%
Average of 6 brand new packs capacity loss = 5.05%
Average of 11 older packs without weak cells = 5.89%
Average of capacity loss of 16 packs without any weak cells = 5.6%

Capacity losses of packs higher than 7% = 9.74%, 8.5%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 9.8%, 10.35%, 7.95%
Most of the packs with higher capacity loss was due to a slightly weak cell that hit 3.7 volts before other cells. Voltage would quickly come back to same as other cells.


My thoughts: I am very surprised that after 1 year my average capacity loss was around 6%. I had the packs in my very hot New York City garage during the summer and felt like I did a lot of riding. The packs were also subjected to lots of harsh off-road riding.

From reading this forum I was under the impression that lipos don't last that long. It seems that at a 6% capacity loss a year, I could be using these lipos easily for 4-5 years.

The newer packs had less capacity loss possibly from the fact that I didn't install these packs until later in the year, they could have seen 20-30% less cycles than the older packs. They do look like they fared slightly better with capacity loss even with the lower cycles on them.
 
Sounds about right from my experience. When you are likely to see the dramatic loss of capacity is after the second year, between year 2 and 3.

You should have another year of use with only about 10% more or less capacity lost. Then will come a much larger loss of capacity.

Worth noting though, that a lot of that third year capacity loss will not be so apparent if your discharge rates are that low. If you do a higher discharge rate test in a few years, then you will see a lot more loss. You'll also notice that charging starts to take forever. That last few wh will take forever to "stick" in the pack. As the charge rate slows when the packs are close to full, the trickle going in starts to equal the heating from the now high resistance in the packs.

So even in year 2 or 3, you will still have a usable battery, it will become a bitch to charge is all, taking forever to fill.

I have some packs that are now 5 years old, and still can dish out about 70%, but only if the discharge rate is about .5c Any faster, they just blow their capacity heating themselves.
 
Well, it really wasn't that hot in NY this past summer but I can confirm similar performance spanning 3-4 years with my Turnigy 20C RC Lipo.

One thing you should see is that these things "perk up" when warmer weather returns. They appear to deliver best performance (less sag) and highest capacity with ambient temps around 80F and above. When things hover around 50-60F I notice significant change and by 30-40F you can't help but notice the increased sag and capacity loss due to internal IR heating. If unable to start with them at room temp, 15-20F is pretty much my cut-off point.

As RC Lipo ages it becomes more and more important to test and qualify IR of each cell so that you can cull out bad ones from series strings before they can damage good ones. Anything above 20mOhm per cell is about where I retire them from motor drive service but may still use them for lighting or other non-critical situations as long as they're not puffing or physically damaged. I have had some that ate through the pouch from the inside-out due to some form of contaminant-corrosive reaction.

Search my posts for "corrosive" if you wanna see pics....
 
Powerlab 8 is very nice because I run it though my computer and I see on a chart how each of the 6 cells change in volts through the discharge.

I can easily spot bad or weak cells and when they drop out.

Mostly all bad cells are 1 and 6, or the two outer cells.

What I did was put a big sticker on the battery and write down the date, capacity out, and if there are any weak cells. I also write down if I replaced a bad cell.

My powerlab 8 also gives a resistance spec if you charge it for a couple of minutes. I don't know how accurate this is but I am going to start writing down the resistance of each cells.
 
I ran some internal resistance tests on my batteries. I don't know how accurate this spec is and at what charge voltages gives it the best accuracy.

Anyway, brand new never used lipos get around 1.8 OHM on my powerlab 8.

The oldest batteries get around 2.5-3.0 OHMS, and most get about 2.0-2.5 OHMS. I assume it's OHMS but not sure.

What surprises me is that resistance seems to be low in all my batteries, nothing higher than 3.0. I can't see resistance ever being a problem.

The only time I get high resistance like 5 or 6 is when a cell is almost completely bad and will discharge in minutes.

Another thing I noticed is that cells that drop out a little faster than the others don't really show up as higher resistance.
 
You only use them 1/4 time of the year so thats why you can if you are lucky get a few years out of them. My first batteries from 2013 are about two years old with 500 cycles on them. I had two packs but mechanical damage caused wires to come of off one of the battery packs so I had to replace some as time went by. They are OK down about 10-20% of original capacity and burst(wot) power is lower. I use 5ah packs in series only so mine has been use in a higher c rate than yours. :D
 
they are easy to repair if the sense wires pull out. just cut the shrink wrap back and remove the plastic tape around the top to get access. then solder the sense wire back onto the tab. there will be a solder spot.

you can also take them apart and remove defective or leaking pouches and then reassemble them by soldering them together at the tabs again. or just make them into a regular battery like i do.
 

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That' s pretty good data.

Goes to show that shallow charges and discharges decreasing performance/capacity loss in a battery is not a "myth"
 
Kiriakos GR said:
All well made 18650 will eventually collapse in high drain applications in three years the most.
I did selected Lifepo4 Headway 38120 because those have almost double lifespan which is to 5-7 years.

I have a Bosch "Fatpack" with 10s2p Sony US18650V cells from 2007 (1,1Ah LMO) that are used in a Bosch Rotak Lawn Mover which draws up to 30A. This is around 14C . The cells are still good. They see maybe 30 cycles each summer and are stored cool during winter.

I own a 10s2p Pack with Sony US18650VT cells (1,6Ah LMO) that I bought used for 50Euro somewhere around 2009. Used it for some years on a 14A pedelec controller, that#s around 5C peaks. Internal resisatnce has grown and capacity is aroud 1,2Ah now (it never was 1,6Ah) and I plan to use it for 7s1p packs in a powertool formerly powered with 20s NiCd cells (which have horrible self discharge rates).

A 10s3p pack with Sanyo UR18650E cells (2,0Ah, LMO) from early 2011 still has 90% of its capacity and no significant growth in Ri after around 350 cycles (not full cycles).

My Portapower battery with 10s4p Panasonic NCR18650 (2,9Ah, NCA) that I bought used somewhere around 2011 with less than 10 full cycles has still more than 90% of its original capacity, but never was useable for high loads. (This is a cell that doesn't even like 1C continous discharge rates)

I bought 165 Panasonic NCR18650PF (2,9Ah, NCA) cells recently and I expect 10 years _and_ 1000 moderate (1C / 0,3C) cycles from them with more than 70% capacity and less than twice the initial DC Ri.

It's NCA chemistry and once degraded to around 80% initial capacity from calendar and cycle degradation it is predicted that they will almost stop further degrading from "calendar aging" if you can protect them from heat and don't keep them at 4,2V.
 
LOL don't buy from them, especially if you are from europe! They almost scammed me, but I managed to get my money back through paypal, but it was very painful. They are also expensive comparing to some EU stores.

If you are from EU, check this store:

http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size.html

I have good experience with them, and they offer volume discount, just ask them. PF is already very cheap.
 
cwah said:
Can you explain what happened? There was another customer who was happy.


That was probably before EU tightened their custom controls. Basically powertrading and some other suppliers send lithium batteries as nimh, and with fake documents. Then the EU customs seize and destroy the package, and you don't see batteries or money. That's really sad. So you better buy batteries from EU supplier like akkuteile or nkon, or from reputable chinese vendors who ship batteries properly. If you need more details about what happened you can send me PM.
 
cwah said:
That has nothing to do with scams.. actually it's more to help than anything else because you just wanted to avoid customs??

LOL don't be silly. I didn't want to avoid customs! And I haven't asked them to write false declaration and send batteries as nimh. They did that on their own! That can't be helpful because customs aren't stupid and they will see that batteries aren't nimh.
I used wrong word, it wasn't scam, but never the less it was their mistake and they refused to refund me so I had to go through painful paypal claim, but in the end I got my money back since it wasn't my mistake.

I'm trying to help you and you dis me... Very nice indeed. :roll:
 
Kiriakos GR said:
riba2233 said:
That can't be helpful because customs aren't stupid and they will see that batteries aren't nimh.

Customs in all EU has nowadays finest electronics to see and discover even dust in a sealed box. :wink:
No one can play with them.

Yes, that's mostly true, some members were lucky, but that's past tense.
 
riba2233 said:
cwah said:
That has nothing to do with scams.. actually it's more to help than anything else because you just wanted to avoid customs??

LOL don't be silly. I didn't want to avoid customs! And I haven't asked them to write false declaration and send batteries as nimh. They did that on their own! That can't be helpful because customs aren't stupid and they will see that batteries aren't nimh.
I used wrong word, it wasn't scam, but never the less it was their mistake and they refused to refund me so I had to go through painful paypal claim, but in the end I got my money back since it wasn't my mistake.

I'm trying to help you and you dis me... Very nice indeed. :roll:

My worry is more about fake batteries. For sure if the batteries don't pass the border it's their problem and paypal will refund for sure.

So i'm not worried about that. It happened to my last order, it never passed the border and were shipped back. I had my money back
 
Kiriakos GR said:
riba2233 said:
With eu suppliers you are more likely to get original batteries, but I also think that you are safe if you buy from reputable chinese sellers.

With the excessive shipping cost imposed by all fast post services, which are hiding tremendous custom clearance fees (just for their own agents) at the country of arrival, I do not see any bright side in the all story.

DHL will get in the begging 60 - 80 dollars as shipping fee from China ( which seems low), at customs clearance event, they will require 100EUR for their customs clearance services, and the customs tax will be added at the Top of Goods + shipping cost.

Example: 300$ Battery plus shipping 80$ = 380$ ----> destination country ---> + 100 EUR (DHL)-----> + 71EUR local taxes
GRAND TOTAL
Battery + shipping = 310EUR
DHL & customs clearance 170 EUR
480 EUR in cash for a battery of 140 - 200$ TRUE retail cost.

I came close to not make a ebike at all because of this lobby of shame, which I was in denial to sponsor it too.
And changed my mind when managed to get a supposed damaged battery very cheaply, from eBay in Germany.
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=959.0

I've seen you got some headways... they are battery from the past... and were good several years ago. But same as ping, they are now old technology. Get the latest NCR18650 cells and double your battery capacity... and if you are worry about lifecycle, just use them at 30-70% charge band.
 
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