48V 1000W Conhis Motor Upgrade

[dnmun]

wow, impressive panel. you built that up yourself? even have an analog speedo. so cool. what are the little switches to the left?

that $15 voltmeter display also measures the Ah of discharged power so you can tell when the pack is running outa juice. this is less reliable with SLA but you can develop a history so you know when is safe.

about the throttle, i think they use the term 'speed' cable. and it has blue black grey so i suspect the grey is the halls sensor output and blue is the 5V, black ground. just a guess, you must verify. but if you have a 48V controller now, you can open it up to see if you can use it for the 5 SLA. if the mosfets will handle the voltage, you may be able to just replace the input and S/D caps with higher voltage for less money and it will still work if you end up using only 48V. that would be cheaper. jmho.

 

[sheikhuu]

Thanks! yeah, i built that myself. The switches on the left are for (from bottom up) the DC-DC converter (48V to 12V) power, the headlamps and tail-light and indicator hazards.

I'll definitely look into that Voltmeter display. And Thank You for the throttle. I'll open the controller to check out the mosfets and share the pictures.

 

[dnmun]

i was able to buy the turnigy wattmeters for $25 but this is more of a panel type display that neil found:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=40434

 

[sheikhuu]

Hey people!

So i opened my controller. Found out that the mosfet is 75V N-channel mosfet. model is P75NF75. So, i guess i shouldn't be concerned if i go from 48V to 60V?

The capacitors are rated at 470microFarad 63Volts. I guess that might be a problem. What should i change them to if i want to go to 60V?

Anything else that i should do? Please, see the attached pictures.

 

[wesnewell]

470uf 75V 105C. No sense in going any higher. To be honest, I'd just try it with the 63V caps and see how it goes. 60V sla won't charge above 68V and more likely 66-67V.

 

[sheikhuu]

470uf 75V 105C. No sense in going any higher. To be honest, I'd just try it with the 63V caps and see how it goes. 60V sla won't charge above 68V and more likely 66-67V.

Hey thanks man! really appreciate it!

Pray i don't screw this controller up. It's the only one i've got at the moment.

 

[kentlim26]

my build is 60v 18fets controller just like yours, also my hub motor is conhis 1000watts. it has been running very well. my battery will be lifepo4 48v ,16cells+ 2 cells from Lipos 10amps . the 60v controller will not work for only 16cells of lifepo4, it will hit the LVC and cut off power when is full throttle. i got my speed max is 55km/h ~ 58km/h. the best speed i like is 55km/h but not more , will be the best out of it. i won't try 60km/h and above . Becasue it affects the controlling the handle bar.

 

[dnmun]

i think there is no such thing as a 75V 470uF cap. the biggest problem with using a larger cap, which would have to be 100V, is the physical size. it will not fit between the board and the top of the case so you could not get it to fit inside or next to each other. they would have to be laid on their side so the legs would be really long and not as effective as they are when mounted right into the the through holes with short legs.

the 5 SLA could be charged to just 70V instead of 73V so you would be 7V over when fully charged, but the sag from the peukert effect will drag it down to the 63V level almost immediately, so just use the caps you have and when charging to max charge, just don't leave the controller plugged into the batteries because the caps would be exposed to that voltage all the time the charger is on it. you can open the charger and adjust the charging voltage on the pcb.

kent is right about the problem with using a higher voltage controller when you go to lifepo4. it is best to use a 36V controller with a 48V lifepo4 pack to get the full capacity of the pack, even though you should not really draw it down that deep. if you can avoid it.

 

[XLR8]

I have upgraded my 48V 1000W Conhis to 60V with a $42 (landed at my door) 60V 45A controller from Leo at Chinagreentime (AliExpress). I don't think it is worth trying to upgrade the Conhis 48V controller. If you add up the price of the caps and FETS and your time, it's cheaper to get another one which it designed for the job. Leo is very responsive and answers all my questions. The controller runs cool and the motor runs warm when I push it hard. It also has extra features such as EABS and cruise control and three speed setting. The price may have risen a few dollars but it will be a good buy.

 

[wesnewell]

i think there is no such thing as a 75V 470uF cap.

Then don't think.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25pcs-CDM-75V-470uF-Low-ESR-105c-Radial-Capacitors-NEW-/200591769078

 

[dnmun]

that's great. when mouser or newark or digikey doesn't list a part, you can always find it on ebay or alibaba. the chinese really have made a part for everything now.

 

[kentlim26]

I have upgraded my 48V 1000W Conhis to 60V with a $42 (landed at my door) 60V 45A controller from Leo at Chinagreentime (AliExpress). I don't think it is worth trying to upgrade the Conhis 48V controller. If you add up the price of the caps and FETS and your time, it's cheaper to get another one which it designed for the job. Leo is very responsive and answers all my questions. The controller runs cool and the motor runs warm when I push it hard. It also has extra features such as EABS and cruise control and three speed setting. The price may have risen a few dollars but it will be a good buy.

this huatong controller run cools with cyclone motor+ hub motor too. i think i bought much higher price very long time ago. i have totally forgot about the price for my 60v and 48v version both are huatong, 18fets. my final review after many months of running this huatong controllers seem amazing reliable indeed, i saw no blown yet . im considering to build 20inch hub motor on a BMX , once i got my extra funds arrival , my 4th ebike

 

[sheikhuu]

i think there is no such thing as a 75V 470uF cap. the biggest problem with using a larger cap, which would have to be 100V, is the physical size. it will not fit between the board and the top of the case so you could not get it to fit inside or next to each other. they would have to be laid on their side so the legs would be really long and not as effective as they are when mounted right into the the through holes with short legs.

the 5 SLA could be charged to just 70V instead of 73V so you would be 7V over when fully charged, but the sag from the peukert effect will drag it down to the 63V level almost immediately, so just use the caps you have and when charging to max charge, just don't leave the controller plugged into the batteries because the caps would be exposed to that voltage all the time the charger is on it. you can open the charger and adjust the charging voltage on the pcb.

kent is right about the problem with using a higher voltage controller when you go to lifepo4. it is best to use a 36V controller with a 48V lifepo4 pack to get the full capacity of the pack, even though you should not really draw it down that deep. if you can avoid it.

i think there is no such thing as a 75V 470uF cap.

Then don't think.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25pcs-CDM-75V-470uF-Low-ESR-105c-Radial-Capacitors-NEW-/200591769078

I have upgraded my 48V 1000W Conhis to 60V with a $42 (landed at my door) 60V 45A controller from Leo at Chinagreentime (AliExpress). I don't think it is worth trying to upgrade the Conhis 48V controller. If you add up the price of the caps and FETS and your time, it's cheaper to get another one which it designed for the job. Leo is very responsive and answers all my questions. The controller runs cool and the motor runs warm when I push it hard. It also has extra features such as EABS and cruise control and three speed setting. The price may have risen a few dollars but it will be a good buy.

I just bought a couple of 75V 470uF capacitors from my local electronic store. When my dad found out what i was upto, he told me strictly not to modify the conhis controller and instead he bought me a new one from ebay. It's on it's way!

I always wanted to ask what is this EABS feature? my (arriving) controller has it. it also has that 3-speed setting. How is the wiring hooked up?

Another question is that does the motor run warmer than when everything was completely stock on your bike? Do i need to install a temperature sensor on the windings of the motor?

my build is 60v 18fets controller just like yours, also my hub motor is conhis 1000watts. it has been running very well. my battery will be lifepo4 48v ,16cells+ 2 cells from Lipos 10amps . the 60v controller will not work for only 16cells of lifepo4, it will hit the LVC and cut off power when is full throttle. i got my speed max is 55km/h ~ 58km/h. the best speed i like is 55km/h but not more , will be the best out of it. i won't try 60km/h and above . Becasue it affects the controlling the handle bar.

Yeah, even at 52km/hr, controlling the handle bar while carrying the weight of the sla batteries does produce quite a bit of wobble and swaying. I don't know how to get around that.

 

[XLR8]

If your new controller is the same as mine then what I did to use EABS (electrically assisted braking system, maybe?) was to set up a momentary switch on the handlebars that had the EABS wire and the purple wire (60v) from the controller connected to it. I put a 4.7kohm resistor in one of those wires to drop the voltage a little to play it safe. It works very well. I don't think you will need a temperature sensor. I do what "John in CR" does. He puts his hand on the motor to find out how hot it is. My motor never gets so hot that I can't keep my hand on it and it only gets warm if I drive it at full power up hills and against headwinds. Just keep on eye on the temperature until you get a feel on what it does under various conditions. For more info http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40900&p=602581#p602581 and check out John in CR posts about motor temp. which are very interesting.

 

[dnmun]

that is interesting. i looked in all my catalog from mouser and newark and could not find 75V caps. the nichicon and even the less well known brands were all 63 v then 100V, nothing in between.