84V Upgrade to my ZAP Truck

Puppyjump

100 W
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
190
I added a 7th battery to my ZAP to increase its performance. This increases the traction pack from 72V to 84V.

It was a lot of work because I chose to go the route of a symmetric battery pack and I wanted to keep my spare tire.

The usual method for upgrading the ZAP truck is to cut out the spare tire support frame and then drop in a prefab battery tray that you can buy online. This gives an non symmetric arrangement for the total battery pack, and then you need to carry the spare tire in the bed.

The online kit that removes the spare tire offers the advantage that the job is pretty easy. My way was much tougher. They built the ZAP with welds all over the place, many of which are difficult to reach when trying to chop things off the frame.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xthOeDv7URg&feature=channel_page
 
Didn't realize that the zap was 72v to start with. No wonder you love it! I just sorta assumed that it was a 48v setup, like the golf carts that become NEV's.
 
I don't think these are considered NEV's are they? They can go over 35mph right? Since they're a 3-wheeler....

I almost bought one here for $2900 for a Zap PK (solar roof).... needed new batteries. I needed a little higher speed though.
 
dogman said:
Didn't realize that the zap was 72v to start with. No wonder you love it! I just sorta assumed that it was a 48v setup, like the golf carts that become NEV's.

Yes, that's why I've been generally positive about the ZAP to the point of appearing to be a shill for the ZAP company. For an EV it's a good value (in my opinion) if you can live within its limitations and it's the only affordable choice for an EV class (faster than 25MPH) above an NEV. Additionally, even though the build quality fit and finish is crude, structurally this thing is built tough. It's got a very heavy steel frame (I'm not sure about the ZAP sedan though which I think is a unibody type). It's this heavy frame that probably makes the ZAP inefficient as an EV such that I use 375 watthours/mile from the 115V charge plug (worst case-includes charging losses). My 8 mile commute has 30 traffic lights and one stop sign, so I have a lot of stop-and-go that contributes to the poor 375 WH/mile average. Still, it's this heavy frame and the mass of about 700 pounds of batteries that might keep me from dieing if a car runs into me.

Note that the ZAP is based on golf cart style technology...well...souped-up golf cart tech at 72V. It, for example, uses a Curtis controller and a DC drive motor. Still, it's this simple tech that makes it easy to play with and modify.
 
frodus said:
I don't think these are considered NEV's are they? They can go over 35mph right? Since they're a 3-wheeler....

I almost bought one here for $2900 for a Zap PK (solar roof).... needed new batteries. I needed a little higher speed though.

$2900 for the solar optioned ZAP was a good deal, even if you had to buy batteries.

No, the ZAP is NOT an NEV. It has no LEGAL speed limitations. Mine hits 40 MPH on 72V and will hit 43-45 on its 84V (but my 84V is not actually hooked up yet- still making the cables to add that 7th battery into the string- I can't wait!) The ZAP speed limited only by its simple technology. If you could somehow soup one up to hit 60 MPH, Mr. officer Law would not care, but it would be unwise to do so since IMO the handling and brakes would not be safe above 40MPH. Even at 40MPH I leave a lot of distance in front of me to the car ahead so I can stop OK.
 
Any idea how much voltage the motor can handle. I realize that the controller has limits, I'm just curious about the motor cababillity.

Also I assume those brakes are drum type??

Also in your opinion if one would put lighter batteries in that vehicle to reduce weight, would it have cornering problems, or do you think that the chassis is heavy enough to corner without trying to lean.

Btw, thanks for all the good info, cause I'm planning on getting one.

Oh another question, if one had to pick up this vehicle say about 300 miles, and since its a three wheeler and cant be put on a regular transport dolly, is it possible in your opinion to transport it backwards, another words, put the two rear wheels on the dolly. Do you think the front is strong enough to be transported that way ??

Roy
 
Roy Von Rogers said:
Any idea how much voltage the motor can handle. I realize that the controller has limits, I'm just curious about the motor cababillity.

Also I assume those brakes are drum type??

Also in your opinion if one would put lighter batteries in that vehicle to reduce weight, would it have cornering problems, or do you think that the chassis is heavy enough to corner without trying to lean.

Btw, thanks for all the good info, cause I'm planning on getting one.

Oh another question, if one had to pick up this vehicle say about 300 miles, and since its a three wheeler and cant be put on a regular transport dolly, is it possible in your opinion to transport it backwards, another words, put the two rear wheels on the dolly. Do you think the front is strong enough to be transported that way ??

Roy

1) I've read good things about the motor, but as to it's limits, I'd post that question on the ZAP users group blog. ABSOLUTELY anyone thinking of getting a ZAP should study the users blog first so you know what you are getting into:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Xebra_EV/
I have heard of someone doing a 96V upgrade and that part of that upgrade was a stronger blower to cool the motor.
2) All 3 wheels have disc brakes. They are not power assist so it is hard to stop the car compared to what we are used to. I heard the disc brakes are the same as a 1982 Honda civic.
3) I suspect that with lighter batteries you will have less cornering ability. The ZAP has the undesirable geometry of one wheel in front and two in back. The ideal 3 wheeler has two in front and one in back. My ZAP corners fairly well and I've been cornering faster than I initially thought possible, but that's probably due to the weight of the batteries near the rear axle that keep it from tipping over. Still, I'd love a set of 200AH LiFePO4 batteries. I'd go as far as bolting on a pair of side wheels up front like heavy duty training wheels to stop the ZAP from tipping over. The ZAP already looks goofy so a set of extra wheels won't matter.
4) I would use a flatbed to transport the ZAP. Also, maybe you could fit the ZAP into a U-Haul? I would not tow it such that the front wheel was on the ground. It has little suspension, and one pothole would ruin it if all that weight were on it. ZAP warns against towing it with any of its wheels on the ground.
 
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