Best way to connect a 2nd battery ?

[bogdandumitrescu]

I have a bunch of those four blade connectors and sockets laying around here from buying batteries and getting given various discharge adapter plates. They are easy to buy on AliExpress too.

If I really wanted to wire that controller into two parallel batteries, I'd probably just connect my own four blade connector into the original battery instead of connecting the controller package's four blade connector to the battery. Then I'd have pigtails coming off my four blade connector and could make a y adapter there to wire in the second battery in parallel. Then I could add a four blade socket to the y adapter and plug the original controller package into that.

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PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG
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-1- It seems like the 10Ah battery has 14Awg wires inside so i cannot connect into those wires directly
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-2- Solution A - I can replace the wires inside the 10 Awg battery and replace the 4 blade, with 12Awg and a new 4blade, and create a Y with X60 connector and plug in the batteries in parallel ... DOWNSIDE they have to be charged similarly , very close 48volts
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-3-Solution B - remove the 10Ah battery from the frame and move it in the rack, and plug in directly the 20Ah battery into the 4 blade ...DOWNSIDE the 4blade polarity is easy to mess up and i need to carry the 10Ah battery in the back rack somewhere
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THOUGHTS ????????????????????
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[bogdandumitrescu]

More good options.

I like doc’s hailong swap system one the best.
- No rewiring required
- No danger from non-aligned pack voltages
- Retains the option of joining the packs in any way you see fit in the future

I thought you’d already ordered the rack battery though.

Anyway, I think you’ve got an almost exhaustive range of options now. Good luck choosing.

I need to pull out the built in battery and put it in the back of the bike ... another thing to worry about ... but in general i like it

 

[bogdandumitrescu]

I saw somebody added a DPDT 15A / 250V switch on this post

Second battery (52v + 48v)?

Hey gang, Have an Ariel Rider D-Class that I'd like to add a second battery to. To make matters slightly messier, I'd really prefer adding on a 52v battery to get a little more juice at the top end. So... Couple lines of questioning: 1) should I go in parallel? And if so, anybody have a handy...

endless-sphere.com

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I got a DPDT switch (20A / 125V) ... i connected two 48V batteries on it ... i can check the connections in the switch with the multimeter ... but when i flip the switch ( when i apply the voltage from the battery) ... even though the multimeter tells me there is a connection ... the electricity does not flow thru ... i cannot measure the voltage in the middle 2 poles ... any thoughts ??

 

[bogdandumitrescu]

I saw somebody added a DPDT 15A / 250V switch on this post
.

Second battery (52v + 48v)?

Hey gang, Have an Ariel Rider D-Class that I'd like to add a second battery to. To make matters slightly messier, I'd really prefer adding on a 52v battery to get a little more juice at the top end. So... Couple lines of questioning: 1) should I go in parallel? And if so, anybody have a handy...

endless-sphere.com

.
I got a DPDT switch (20A / 125V) ... i connected two 48V batteries on it ... i can check the connections in the switch with the multimeter ... but when i flip the switch ( when i apply the voltage from the battery) ... even though the multimeter tells me there is a connection ... the electricity does not flow thru ... i cannot measure the voltage in the middle 2 poles ... any thoughts why i see the connection on the ohm meter but the electricity does not go thru ??

 

[glennb]

In a double pole switch the adjacent poles are switched in unison, but otherwise independent from each other. To improve current handling you’ll want to bridge the adjacent contacts and/or run two parallel wires.

The center terminals are always “common”.

For load selection, the “common” element is the power source (e.g. battery), so you connect it to the common terminal. Power is then routed “to” one or the other load according to switch position.

For source selection, the “common” element is the load (e.g. motor), so you connect it to the common terminal. Power is then routed “from” one or the other source according to switch position.

Sorry, I didn’t address your question directly, I just don’t know how better to explain. All you need to know to implement your switch is contained in my answer. Whether or not I explained it well enough …

 

[bogdandumitrescu]

I bought another switch and it worked .. .
What are the chances of a bad mechanical switch ?
Thank you

 

[glennb]

That’s good.

Of an entirely non-functional switch, of the type you acquired, chances are likely one in a million. One in one hundred thousand at best/worst.