Lectriceye
100 W
My first experience with an Ebike was 18 months ago when I purchased a factory built 1000W geared hub drive with 21AH battery, steel frame, with 4 inch fat tires, weighng in at 78 lbs. I am 6 ft and 220 lbs, so with extra gear, I started riding with over 300 lbs load. Previuosly I was road warrior and moutain biker but I wanted an easier way to ride/explore backcountry roads, while still getting some exercise. As it rurned out, several of my first extended trips in the mountains involving 20 or more miles and long inclines exceeding 10% at times were a complete failure. I burned out 2 30a controllers before I decided I needed a different configuartation. What I ended up with is a 1000w BBSHD combined with my original bubrive and a second 20ah 52v battery. Affter about 1500 miles on this configuration I determined that this combination is ideal for my knind of riding. The biggest dawback is that I can't find local riding partners who have the ability to join me on any ride beyond about 25 miles that includes a lot of elevation gain. Hence my biggest gripe about factory bikes is that none of them have enough range, and adding a second battery, while simple in technolgy, is difficult because of the integrated design of the battery housing, controller etc. MOre so for mid-drives than hub drives. If I were designing one from scratch I would include and external port for plugging in an external battery in parallel via an internal blender.
My configuration is a as follows:
a. 2 LCD's, one for each controller left side for BBSHD, right for Hub
b. Twist throttle and kill switch on right for hub
c. power selector and thumb throttle on left for BBSHD
d. Front brake on left with BBSHD brake cuttout - Rear brake on right with hub motor cutoff
e. Throttle only on Hub motor - had to remove PAS for hub to install BBSHD
f. BBSHD has PAS and throttle
g. Both batteries are separate
h. I added a 3rd 20ah battery coupled with blender with the hub battery - only used for mountain rides 40 miles or longer.
How I ride:
My normal ride mode is hub only for flat and moderate climbs. If my hub watts starts to climb above 600w or so, I add in the SHD PAS, I have a standard front chain ring with 46 teeth and a standard 14-28 rear cluster. in any kind of knarly, steep, long hills, I will be power level 1 or 2 of 5 levels on both motors, using the 28 or smaller gear. Thus I can maintain 10-12 mph on any mountain climb without overdriving either motor or controller and staying under 6-700 watts each.
I consider this a very successful conversion, though I do have another around town hybrid that I recently converted to a 1500w hub, very fast with 45mm tires and lots of climbing power. I primarily use it to run to the grocery or post office.
My configuration is a as follows:
a. 2 LCD's, one for each controller left side for BBSHD, right for Hub
b. Twist throttle and kill switch on right for hub
c. power selector and thumb throttle on left for BBSHD
d. Front brake on left with BBSHD brake cuttout - Rear brake on right with hub motor cutoff
e. Throttle only on Hub motor - had to remove PAS for hub to install BBSHD
f. BBSHD has PAS and throttle
g. Both batteries are separate
h. I added a 3rd 20ah battery coupled with blender with the hub battery - only used for mountain rides 40 miles or longer.
How I ride:
My normal ride mode is hub only for flat and moderate climbs. If my hub watts starts to climb above 600w or so, I add in the SHD PAS, I have a standard front chain ring with 46 teeth and a standard 14-28 rear cluster. in any kind of knarly, steep, long hills, I will be power level 1 or 2 of 5 levels on both motors, using the 28 or smaller gear. Thus I can maintain 10-12 mph on any mountain climb without overdriving either motor or controller and staying under 6-700 watts each.
I consider this a very successful conversion, though I do have another around town hybrid that I recently converted to a 1500w hub, very fast with 45mm tires and lots of climbing power. I primarily use it to run to the grocery or post office.
