Controller for turnigy 80-100-180kV motor, burned all

C

c_a

100 W
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
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161
Location
east germany, behind the wall
Hi!

In my pocketbike I tested the following controllers:

YGE 160 HV - got to hot after a few accelerations and switched off, control was nearly impossible, binary output (no power/full power)

Castle 160 HV - very smooth acceleration, temperature was ok, but smoked after ~1h, the second one was in fire after the first acceleration, low idle current of 8A

Figther Cat 200Amp - got hot after a few seconds, acceleration possible but not smooth

what for a controller can I use for this application? Pushing the bike to 5mph is no problem, topspeed is 45-60mph, slowest corner speed is ~15mph
 
I'm shocked that RC ESC's blow up on your motor. (This is sarcasm)


I've found no RC ESC that lived more than 5minutes in my use on a bike.

-Luke
 
The first castle worked very well for one hour, the second no five seconds :-(

It is so great to have such a competitive bike, with this motor/battery combination, but this is nothing without a controller :-/

I limited the current in the castle software to 160A, high timing, low frequency. The peak current that I have seen in the logging was 170amps. All good, but?
 
If you want to stay ahead of the game, add sensors. You have two choices, either add hall sensors to the inside of the motor, or add optical sensors to the outside. This will allow you to use one of Lyens E-bike controllers.

What diameter wheel are you using? and also, what is your gear-down ratio? As an example, an 11T sprocket on the motor to a 55-tooth sprocket on the wheel is a 5:1 reduction.

With the RC controllers (ESCs), it is vital to add low-ESR capacitors to the power inputs. Most builds I have seen use 4 additional capacitors. They are very cheap.

edit: From reading the posts of race-bike builders, I think the ultimate set-up is to rewind these motors with new wire to a lower kV, and terminate the phases in Wye. As long as you have the motor apart, fill between the magnets with high-temp epoxy, upgrade the bearings, and add a temp sensor probe (it can be hooked up to a read-out later, but as long as the motor is apart?...)

Rewinding an 80-100, by ES member Thud
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20618
P2190026.jpg
 
I am having some success using a sensored Kelly controller with my current build.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=29531&start=15
My 80-100 is rewound in wye and the estimated kV is around 70. I installed hall sensors and have the controller dialed down to 75% max.
Just yesterday I did some hill climbing and it nearly threw me off the back.
Martin
 
I ask me if the turnigy fatboy 300 Amps will do the job with this motor on an EV.

I don't want to burn another esc so is anyone have more informations about this product?
 
Has anybody tried a kelly kbl with a turnigy with added hallsensors?

Do I need analog or digital sensors?

I am thinking about the position of the sensors, 12 slots, 14 magnets, KBL can use 30° or 60° sensors... ? ;)
 
c_a said:
Has anybody tried a kelly kbl with a turnigy with added hallsensors?

Do I need analog or digital sensors?

I am thinking about the position of the sensors, 12 slots, 14 magnets, KBL can use 30° or 60° sensors... ? ;)
Click to expand...


Make sure you get the fastest firmware package they offer, the standard Kelly run's out of electrical RPM much too soon to milk all the power from the big Turnigy.
 
Honeywell SS411A hall sensors are hard to beat.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/644/1993.pdf
 
c_a said:
Ordered a kelly kbl48201, kelly said that I need analog hallsensors, what modell can I use?
Click to expand...

might want to order the 300 or 400amp model if it isn't too late.
 
I will limit the current drawn from the battery, 170amps are enough for the pocketbike, otherwise you will flip over all the time ;)

can I use honeywell ss411a with the kelly controller?
 
c_a said:
I will limit the current drawn from the battery, 170amps are enough for the pocketbike, otherwise you will flip over all the time ;)

can I use honeywell ss411a with the kelly controller?
Click to expand...

I thought the rule of thumb with Kelly-Controllers is you should always purchase 1.5 - 2.0X the amperage you actually desire.
So if you want 170 amps from your Kelly controller, you would want to purchase the 300A controller (or the 400A to further reduce your chances of blowing the controller)
 
EBJ said:
c_a said:
I will limit the current drawn from the battery, 170amps are enough for the pocketbike, otherwise you will flip over all the time ;)

can I use honeywell ss411a with the kelly controller?
Click to expand...

I thought the rule of thumb with Kelly-Controllers is you should always purchase 1.5 - 2.0X the amperage you actually desire.
So if you want 170 amps from your Kelly controller, you would want to purchase the 300A controller (or the 400A to further reduce your chances of blowing the controller)
Click to expand...


My 400amp kelly blew when set at 65%.

The biggest 800amp HV kelly blew when set at 70% and ran for amount 2 minutes.


NEVER buy a kelly sized for the power level you want. Even 3x over-size would not be out of line.
 
I bought two kelly controllers now and both worked very well.

Lynch D127 motor with 96V/400A controller, peak current from the battery 360amps, same motor with 600a controller set to 63% 380amps from the battery, I blowed the first one because the i pushed to much voltage at the motor, regualtion at 50-60% was not so fine, but ok
 
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