Custom length spokes - how do you do it?

D

drebikes

100 W
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Jun 22, 2013
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Spain
I'd like to plan for a trip with the ebike some time next year. For this I'd like to have some spare spokes.

My setup: EM3EV DD 500W motor (similar to 9C if not identical) on an Alex Rims 26" uhhh rim. The spokes as shipped by cell_man are 17cm (6.7").

I'd like to buy a few spares, so I jumped on amazon and nothing. On a german site I found 18cm spokes for BMX, but having an extra cm is a good way to aquire a flat.

How do you go source your spokes? There are threading tools on ebay, or maybe there are who sell custom length/diameter threaded spokes?

*EDIT: spelling
 
This is great, thanks for the links. I'm based in France so probably Belgium would be the best option. I think the stock spokes are 2.3mm (13G), but I can replace with as big a diameter that fits the holes in the motor.

Bookmarked
 
Here's a compelling reason to use 13/14ga butted spokes:spokes.jpg
With this technique and 14ga nipples you can find plenty of discarded wheels to scavenge "emergency" spokes. All it takes is a pair of pliers and spoke wrench.
 
That looks cool. I wonder weather lining an entire wheel like this would be possible, it's hot-rod-y. It sure looks like lots of work :)
 
Actually, I got the idea years ago from a user who did this all the way around. Can't beat the price.

It's really not much work on a replacement basis. Cut the spoke about 1" (26mm) extra. Start with a couple turns of nipple thread - insert through hub hole and start twisting. When you get it slightly snug with pliers, tighten/tension with spoke wrench. Ride a few miles, re-tension and I've been running 5-6 spokes this way for several months with no further adjustments.
 
EM3ev won't sell you some spokes? Ask him, even though they are not on the website.

In normal 14 gage, most good bike shops can cut a custom spoke and thread it. So that's a good option for out on a tour.
 
Ykick said:
Actually, I got the idea years ago from a user who did this all the way around. Can't beat the price.

It's really not much work on a replacement basis. Cut the spoke about 1" (26mm) extra. Start with a couple turns of nipple thread - insert through hub hole and start twisting. When you get it slightly snug with pliers, tighten/tension with spoke wrench. Ride a few miles, re-tension and I've been running 5-6 spokes this way for several months with no further adjustments.
Click to expand...

:evil: this is awesome, I have to try doing the whole wheel. There's no reason why it wouldn't work, but it has to look good. A bit of either matte-black or coppery powder-coating...

dogman said:
EM3ev won't sell you some spokes? Ask him, even though they are not on the website.

In normal 14 gage, most good bike shops can cut a custom spoke and thread it. So that's a good option for out on a tour.
Click to expand...

He probably does, I just haven't asked yet. The search started 3 days ago and I had thought I'd have the spokes a few hours later. I was a bit optimistic, but this idea with the twisted spokes motor-side is intriguing.
 
Danscomp all the way for spokes here.

My most recent order was the first time I ever ran into an issue with them (in 6 orders). I ordered 255 and 256 for a slight dish (14G/15G double butted). They accidentally sent 255 and 265. It might have even been my own mistake during the initial call, but they didn't ask any questions, just cut me another set and sent them. Just took a quick phone call.
 
cal3thousand said:
Danscomp all the way for spokes here.
Click to expand...
+1 on Danscomp. Best prices on good spokes by a huge margin, and they are really helpful and nice.
 
Correct.

However, I ordered the wrong length of spokes once.... you should do the calculations for those scenarios as well.
 
drebikes said:
Is this it? Cheers
http://www.danscomp.com/
Click to expand...
Yes. The 14/15 double butted spokes are what you want although in very short sizes you will have to use just straight 14s. I use this spoke calculator..
 
I use these guys

http://www.newsonsportec.com/spokes-cycling.html

never had a problem
 
NeilP said:
I use these guys

http://www.newsonsportec.com/spokes-cycling.html

never had a problem
Click to expand...

Me too. Very good choise. Colored spokes and nipples to required size. They have spoke calculator on site
 
I'd double check the lenghts on another site..therr calc does not seem that accurate.

i always check on at least two or three sites...in fact I have my old Casio fx-77000 prog calculator programmed with spoke formula.


http://www.ebikes.ca/SpokeCalc.shtml

http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator


http://www.extralite.com/Products/measure%20of%20SED.htm


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mismatch/
 
I do too, but it is always nice that manufacturer does have it on their website. I found that it is not that exact with spoke calculation. I was doing my first rim, one from alex rims and I found 4 different EDR values on various sites. Than adding to the equation different calculation results makes it even more confusing.
 
To me, the most useful piece of info I found out, was realising what the ERD you are measuring actually is.
The dimension you come up with is the diameter you would measure at the tip of two spokes. It is the position where the tip of the spoke will be in the finished wheel.

Don 't rely on published figures. Measure it yourself. I just use a long thin pot plant bamboo, put it through opposite spoke holes. Put a blob of Blu Tack / chewing gum over one hole drop stick through, and mark the stick with a pen on tube side of rim.
Slightly more tricky on double walled rims, so just mark stick on inside ( hub side) and add a couple of mm.
 
My situation was different. I was ordering the rim and waned to order spokes at the same time. The way I do it is inserting 2 spokes from old wheel in opposite holes, then put rubber band on bent part of the spokes. Measure distance from nipple to nipple and then add 2 nipple lengths. Works with double walled rims.
 
Yes, I do that way too, but sometimes use the stick method too.

Have also got a pair of spokes seated flush to top of nipples, cut off at elbow. One of them has half width strip cut from old tape measure glued to it. Set so I can read the figure directly, end of one spoke sits on tape strip and I just read off the end against the scale.

I wanted to order spokes at same time as wheel too, but could not find accurate ERD info, so just waited for rim then ordered seperately.
 
Some basic questions.

Do the different gauge spokes- 12, 14 ... use different threads? Different diameters so I'd have thought really it should.
So do those spoke thread rolling machines use different dies for different spoke diameters?
And much cheaper has to be the conventional type cutting dies- are the available? I know they're not recommended, but would be a great quick repair.
 
I guess you could try cutting threads rather than rolling, but you would then have to use the next size down nipples. So if you had 12 gauge spokes, then cut the threads rather than roll them, you would probably need 13 gauge nipples...Rolled threads are bigger than the spoke diameter, where as cut threads are the same, or fractionally smaller.

cant remember tpi figures, but yes, you can get normal thread cutters for that size.
 
alsmith said:
Some basic questions.

Do the different gauge spokes- 12, 14 ... use different threads? Different diameters so I'd have thought really it should.
So do those spoke thread rolling machines use different dies for different spoke diameters?
And much cheaper has to be the conventional type cutting dies- are the available? I know they're not recommended, but would be a great quick repair.
Click to expand...

On our spoke machine, 15g and 14g use the same dies and 13g and 12g use a second different set of dies. Both end up rolling on 56tpi to the spoke end. Thread depth is completely adjustable but does always end up with a larger diameter at the threaded section then along the rest of the spoke length. That's the idea with cold rolling.

You could cut a thread instead but then the spoke nipple would not hold, it's designed for a cold rolled thread. Perhaps you could go one size down for the nipple but then that quick repair becomes somewhat more complicated and less reliable.
 
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