Idontwanttopedal
1 kW
what is the highs voltage you can run a cyclone motor. i running a 1200w 48v cyclone kit at the mow which a good controller how high could i go
cyclone motor max volts ??
- Thread starter Idontwanttopedal
- Start date
i ever try to run them abit higher volts, to 65v. I think is okay for the motor.What is importantly. is the speed. How fast do you want to run them ? As for the speed , it is good to run them most at 57km/h. it can go faster. for a maxise the usage for chains, sporket, gearing, crank gearing, internal gear box, i think is good to stay at 55kmkm/h. i have run them using hua tong 60v controller and the 48v 2000watts controller. both 18fets. the best thing about other type of controller 18fets, it stay alot cooler when is running 50km/h . Motor is abit hot, but controller is COOL..
It was easy to hook this motor to any type of controller. \ there is a max speed of the motor it can take, the best of all, the gearing must be properly set, at rear gearing sporket is 24t and above, so the motor will run cools also.
ken
It was easy to hook this motor to any type of controller. \ there is a max speed of the motor it can take, the best of all, the gearing must be properly set, at rear gearing sporket is 24t and above, so the motor will run cools also.
ken
Idontwanttopedal
1 kW
Dose any one know what voltage you can take the 48v 1200w motor up to
boostjuice
10 kW
The Cyclone planetary geared motors are wound for around 150Kv so at 48V they are already spinning at 7200RPM no load. Thats already pretty fast for their diameter class unless the core is balanced to a high level of accuracy (doubtful for the price they cost). One way to ballpark guess its longevity at higher voltages/RPM on the quick and easy would be to power it up in your hand with a variable voltage power supply without the gearbox attached and feel for increasing vibration. If vibration doesnt increase drastically at higher voltages then your probably alright.
the magnets in the core are held well via captive cutouts in the laminations, thus reducing the chance of centrifugal force causing magnet breakaway compared with a glued magnet core.
the magnets in the core are held well via captive cutouts in the laminations, thus reducing the chance of centrifugal force causing magnet breakaway compared with a glued magnet core.
damcard
100 W
I ran mine at 72v for a little, but smoked it after pushing it for 5 miles. If I had been monitoring temps and backed off, I am sure it would have kept running fine. I guess I wanted to destroy it though because I was never happy with its performance. -Damcard
boostjuice
10 kW
damcard said:
From memory yours was one of the larger diameter un-geared Cyclone motors though? If so, its apples and oranges.... Core dimensions and winding Kv are completely different.
damcard
100 W
Ohh shoot. Good catch. Yes, mine was the ungeared motor so ignore my statement. I get confused with these crystalyte motors. - Damcard
Ricky_nz
10 kW
Hi Boostjuice,boostjuice said:
You realise you have probably just encouraged me to try more volts on my 300W one :lol:
. Currently at 57.6V it goes well. I was thinking of a voltage increase but I couldn't remember how the magnets were mounted and that was a concern. so far mine doesn't vibrate too much. I will check that the 300W mounts the magnets the same way first though. The RPM is definitely getting up there near RC motor speeds.Maybe over the holiday break I might try an extra 5S lipo brick i have sitting around in series :lol: I have got a new 6FET controller I was going to build up with 4110s so providing its voltage regulator works at 19s lipo levels my little cyclone motor may have a lot to fear
Maybe I should seal up the gearbox and put oil in in first though.
boostjuice
10 kW
Hi Ricky,
As for more voltage, I say go for it. Your set-up to test these better than anyone.
I've also thought about filling mine with light oil for cooling purposes. My thoughts are you'd want to fill the channels in the lamination stacks with epoxy and turn it down to a smooth cylinder to reduce unwanted drag. However, that brings up balancing issues as well as the epoxy detaching under centrifugal force long before the magnets break through their captive lamination cutouts.
It's a real shame there is no solid thermal path between the windings and casing on these motors. If the coils were vacuum filled with thermal epoxy like an Astro, ill bet they would handle considerably more power.
As for more voltage, I say go for it. Your set-up to test these better than anyone.
I've also thought about filling mine with light oil for cooling purposes. My thoughts are you'd want to fill the channels in the lamination stacks with epoxy and turn it down to a smooth cylinder to reduce unwanted drag. However, that brings up balancing issues as well as the epoxy detaching under centrifugal force long before the magnets break through their captive lamination cutouts.
It's a real shame there is no solid thermal path between the windings and casing on these motors. If the coils were vacuum filled with thermal epoxy like an Astro, ill bet they would handle considerably more power.
Ricky_nz
10 kW
Epoxy like the astros does sound good but I imagine the process control to get that right could be quite difficult.boostjuice said:
I'll probably take it slow. I'm not sure about my ability to epoxy things right and don't have a lathe to turn the rotor so i might try it now as it is (maybe see how balanced the rotor really is first).
If balance isn't too bad I think the key is to keep the motor current down near stock so the resistive losses don't get out of hand to control temperature. The wire used in the motor is pretty thin. The extra RPM through the crank and bike gears is great even at 57V ( Don't even think about pedalling in the low gears, you will never keep up :lol: ). 44t front and 30t rear does nearly 30Kph on 57V (26" wheels).
I have already added an NTC to my motor to measure the end wind temperature already but I need to measure the resistance and convert it to degrees but thats not hard.
I did wonder if holes in the case and a blower would help cool it but that would end up being bigger than the little motor :lol:.
I wonder if its possible to liquid cool the windings without causing the motor to rust... If we could somehow seal off the inside of the stator to liquid and flow liquid through the stator between the windings it would be good but might bee to difficult to achive.
I did wonder about a total loss cooling solution of dripping water over the outside of the motor but I guess the windings inside would still get too hot unless we can do somthing like the astros.
I have been running 57V and never got round to putting a heat-sink on the motor.
I think in a really hot climate you would need to be careful but here it seems to cope without cooking the windings.
I hope I don't go too far and end up having to order a new motor next year but if I do then this ones had a good life anyway :lol:
.I wonder if we could rewind these suckers for better copper fill.
I guess keeping mindful of the torque limitations of the gearbox is a good idea.
Mine seems to be lasting well as I've kept the phase current down but the voltage high so more RPM rather than more torque.
I think at higher RPMs oil in the gearbox is probably a good idea. Mine although not sealed well has had a splash of lawn mower oil thrown in with grease and it has stayed quieter for longer than the original grease but messey because I didn't silicon it up.
Just a thought if the rotor isn't well balanced I guess because the magnets are captive so magnets coming lose won't be a problem but the bearings would take a hammering.
I wonder how bad the wind loses actually are?
Idontwanttopedal
1 kW
I didn't think the kv was as high as that I thought rpm was about 4500 at 48v
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