dewalt 28v and 36v interchangeability

[ejonesss]

i was wondering if you can cross interchange the 28 volt and 36 volt battery packs with each other's tools (physically) meaning can a 28 volt battery be put on a 36 volt tool and vice versa?

i am kind of a tight wad and constantly looking for the best prices and i want to get into using dewalt tool batteries but i also want to leave the batteries in tact for warranty reasons and the only way i have found is to harvest the mating connector from a tool or charger.

i was wondering if the 28 and 36 volt batteries have any different tabs or notches that may prevent you from crossing the batteries or if it is an electrical thing?

back to the tight wad thing i have found since 28 volt has a slightly less demand than 36 volt so the prices on ebay will be slightly less.

i know that a charger that can charge the 28 as well as the 36 volt batteries will be universal but at $30+ a piece it gets expensive.

flashlights are cheaper more like under $15 buy i could do better.

i hate to spend money on something that will not mate with the battery and i was wondering if anyone knows.

1. if the batteries are cross interchangeable with each other's tools ( 28 battery on 36 tool or vice versa).

2. a company that sells replacement connectors.

3. has broken charger(s) (lightning damage,dipped in water,dropped from height or a battery exploded while charging,or internal thermal fuse blown) that they have laying around waiting for parts or trash that they are willing to sell.

 

[pwbset]

The problem with keeping the DeWalts in tact is that you're not getting nearly the power you can from those awesome cells. The DeWalt BMS sucks frankly. You might as well go with Rigid, Bosch or Milwaukee and save the money... a lot of money likely. If you were going for pure power and harvesting the A123s then for sure DeWalt wins hands down (though you might as well just order the raw cells from johnrobholmes at that point and support an ES member), but their BMS is going to limit you so much you might as well go for cheaper emoli or konion, which will give you plenty of power too. I can pull 40a+ sustained out of 2 Milwaukee pack in parallel... though they won't last long doing that, but DeWalts would last even less.

Just my .02.

 

[ejonesss]

i am replying here too since i have reason to believe that sending pm replies is not working.

i sent a pm and it goes into the outbox instead of the sent box

i dont understand how keeping them intact loses power since according to the http://www.neodymics.com/Images/V24Prot ... 70818E.pdf pins 1 and 10 are the raw power off the battery.

if i connect the bike motor to pins 1 and 10 i should get the power since it bypasses the dewalt bms and i will be using the crystalyte 4840 controller's lvc to stop over discharging. then i can connect the battery directly to the charger stock and in tact.

so how do i lose power that way?

unless the stock bms does not fully charge the cells?

The problem with keeping the DeWalts in tact is that you're not getting nearly the power you can from those awesome cells. The DeWalt BMS sucks frankly. You might as well go with Rigid, Bosch or Milwaukee and save the money... a lot of money likely. If you were going for pure power and harvesting the A123s then for sure DeWalt wins hands down (though you might as well just order the raw cells from johnrobholmes at that point and support an ES member), but their BMS is going to limit you so much you might as well go for cheaper emoli or konion, which will give you plenty of power too. I can pull 40a+ sustained out of 2 Milwaukee pack in parallel... though they won't last long doing that, but DeWalts would last even less.

Just my .02.

 

[pwbset]

so how do i lose power that way?

I don't think many people know this solution exists. It's a good find for sure, but does require additional construction that may be beyond a lot of people's abilities. One of the reasons I went the toolpack route was for it's potential simplicity. I didn't want to have to tap direct leads or bypass the BMS or construct additional stuff. (I didn't understand a lot of that PDF. :lol: )

Please do post if you go that route.

 

[ejonesss]

sorry for broken link let me try again

http://www.neodymics.com/Images/V24ProtoSwitch070818E.pdf

 

[docnjoj]

Yeah! I remember that. Maybe one of our electronic gurus can translate. I think I got the part types and numbers, but the dotted lines confuse me!
otherDoc

 

[ejonesss]

update: i just found out there is a 15 amp fuse on the unswitched output so using the battery intact is a no go so i will have to modify it meaning i will have to find a dealer that does not repair batteries so warranty voiding will not happen.

 

[pwbset]

I didn't really understand that PDF except it seemed that "additional steps were required" type of thing. If it were that easy everyone would have been doing it. There's always a catch.

 

[erth64net]

update: i just found out there is a 15 amp fuse on the unswitched output so using the battery intact is a no go so i will have to modify it meaning i will have to find a dealer that does not repair batteries so warranty voiding will not happen.

Did you ever confirm the 15A fuse issue, or determine if it could be bypassed without breaking the packs apart?

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

update: i just found out there is a 15 amp fuse on the unswitched output so using the battery intact is a no go so i will have to modify it meaning i will have to find a dealer that does not repair batteries so warranty voiding will not happen.

Did you ever confirm the 15A fuse issue, or determine if it could be bypassed without breaking the packs apart?

It can be bypassed fairly easily, but doing so does involve opening up the pack.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6169#p92543

http://www.slkelectronics.com/DeWalt/packs.htm

 

[ejonesss]

thanks but comes kind of too late since i found that the dewalt bms is crappy and easily refuses to charge the cells and does not balance them very well.