Do you need a e-brake?
- Thread starter qtipslea
- Start date
AussieJester
1 TW
Just to clarify "e-brake" your talking motor braking right?
If so no, not essential, brakes of the mechanical/hydraulic kind however, are
If you wish to stop, if not, leave them offand save weight.
KiM
If so no, not essential, brakes of the mechanical/hydraulic kind however, are
If you wish to stop, if not, leave them offand save weight.
KiM
dogman dan
1 PW
If you mean brake cutoffs, they are required by law in many places.
Not required where I live, and I have never had them on most of the bikes I've built. Good to have if a throttle sticks though! More important to have with old fasioned brushed motor vehicles. The common controller failure for brushed is to fail stuck in full throttle mode.
Not required where I live, and I have never had them on most of the bikes I've built. Good to have if a throttle sticks though! More important to have with old fasioned brushed motor vehicles. The common controller failure for brushed is to fail stuck in full throttle mode.
I think I meant brake cut off. Like these one below.
Not sure if my motor is brush or brushless. Its a MXUS 350W from Cell_Man.
Would it be better than if I get a throttle with a brake cut off button built in then? Instead of getting two brake levers.
I checked the law in my area. Doesn't seems to require brake-cut off.
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/emerging/index.shtml#power
Not sure if my motor is brush or brushless. Its a MXUS 350W from Cell_Man.
Would it be better than if I get a throttle with a brake cut off button built in then? Instead of getting two brake levers.
I checked the law in my area. Doesn't seems to require brake-cut off.
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/emerging/index.shtml#power
Drunkskunk
100 GW
No.
Unless required by law in your area, then they are just a waste.
The brake handles are substandard and often made of plastic, the extra wiring is just another point of potintial failure, and they serve no purpose.
Does your car kill the engine if you step on the brake? Of Course not! There's no point. Any idiot knows to take their foot off the gas when applying the brake. The same is true of Ebikes. Unless you bike has Monsterous power, then your normal brakes will stop the bike even if the throttle did get stuck.
Unless required by law in your area, then they are just a waste.
The brake handles are substandard and often made of plastic, the extra wiring is just another point of potintial failure, and they serve no purpose.
Does your car kill the engine if you step on the brake? Of Course not! There's no point. Any idiot knows to take their foot off the gas when applying the brake. The same is true of Ebikes. Unless you bike has Monsterous power, then your normal brakes will stop the bike even if the throttle did get stuck.
rebelpilot
1 kW
Ontario does require brake cutoffs.
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/emerging/e-bike-faq.shtml#a1
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/emerging/e-bike-faq.shtml#a1
Hugues
1 kW
Drunkskunk said:
if you got cruise enabled then id' say e-brakes are a must.
ALso, even before i had enabled cruise mode and installed e-brake, i remember slamming the brakes for an emergency stop. I pressed the lever so far that i did not completely release the throttle, so my braking distance was longer.
dogman dan
1 PW
Brake cut offs make a ton of sense for a bike with cruise. Even if the cruise is just jamming the rubber against the throttle body.
gensem
100 kW
Ebrake is really a must have, even without cruise control. I already had trouble because of a stupid throttle that decided to stick.
What im doing now is using brake cut-off in the rear brake only with a BB7 and the hydralic front brake I had before.
Btw cell_man has much much better quality brakes with cutoff available.
What im doing now is using brake cut-off in the rear brake only with a BB7 and the hydralic front brake I had before.
Btw cell_man has much much better quality brakes with cutoff available.
itchynackers
100 kW
I had a stuck throttle (albeit with a brushed setup). A VERY disconcerting feeling trying to stop a vehicle going 35mph stuck at full throttle (no ebrakes) while staring down a 90 degree turn. Luckily, no other traffic was there to kill me. To me, not running them is just stupid. I agree, the factory chinese ebrakes are low quality. That's why I just cut them apart, and used the actual switch epoxied onto my good quality disc brake levers. Unless you plan on doing rear wheel burn-outs, use them. Be safe.
Hugues
1 kW
it is indeed quite dangerous, to the point where i might had a second brake switch on my front hydraulic brake, here is why:
- in order to install an e-brake on a hydraulic line, you need to buy a small kit from Magura. You cut your line and insert this switch on the line, when it detects pressure, it enables regen.
- if ever my hydraulic line fails and start to leak a lot, because i opened it and did not rebuilt it properly, then i loose my rear brake, both regen braking and mechnical braking. And i cannot stop the cruise mode if it was activated. So i'm left with my front brake only. Depeding on the speed i'm riding at, could be tricky to bring the bike to a stop.
- Agreed the probability this happens is low, but the consequences are quite bad.
Actually i had the controller stuck at two occasions. Nothing was responding , ebrakes, throttle, nothing. The hub was just spinning. The only way was to switch off the controller. Luckily i was not going to fast and there were no obstacles ahead. I managed to slow down a bit by braking at the back and with one hand to find the controller switch. But if this happened in a difficult road, could have been tricky. So i'm thinking of adding a kill switch near my handle bar. I'll try to extend the wires of the main switch of the controller and bring it to my handlebar on a switch. We'll see,
- in order to install an e-brake on a hydraulic line, you need to buy a small kit from Magura. You cut your line and insert this switch on the line, when it detects pressure, it enables regen.
- if ever my hydraulic line fails and start to leak a lot, because i opened it and did not rebuilt it properly, then i loose my rear brake, both regen braking and mechnical braking. And i cannot stop the cruise mode if it was activated. So i'm left with my front brake only. Depeding on the speed i'm riding at, could be tricky to bring the bike to a stop.
- Agreed the probability this happens is low, but the consequences are quite bad.
Actually i had the controller stuck at two occasions. Nothing was responding , ebrakes, throttle, nothing. The hub was just spinning. The only way was to switch off the controller. Luckily i was not going to fast and there were no obstacles ahead. I managed to slow down a bit by braking at the back and with one hand to find the controller switch. But if this happened in a difficult road, could have been tricky. So i'm thinking of adding a kill switch near my handle bar. I'll try to extend the wires of the main switch of the controller and bring it to my handlebar on a switch. We'll see,
itchynackers
100 kW
Yes, an emergency cutoff is also a must. For my lyen controller, I just ran the small red wire to the handlebars. They go to a 45 amp anderson "key" that I can remove without taking my hands off the bars. This should shut down the controller completely.
wineboyrider
1 MW
I use that trick too. LOL.dogman said:
dumbass
100 kW
I use e-brake cutoff on both brake handles plus I have my main power switch next to my throttle. In my opinion brake cutoff switching is a must.
Bob
Bob
mikebikerad
1 kW
http://wholewide.en.alibaba.com/product/495784815-212023423/Ebike_wireless_brake_sensor.html
If anyone gets one of these let us know if the supplier is legit.
If anyone gets one of these let us know if the supplier is legit.
cal3thousand
10 MW
I *had* e-brakes, but the crap controller that I got from e-bikekit.com lost the functionality after 2 weeks or so. I have since changed to another controller that has cruise control, but have yet to complete the e-brake setup. I definitely need to get on top of it as it is dangerous without. Last week, I almost got in a situation where I wasn't able to blip the throttle fast enough to kill the cruise control.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
itchynackers said:
+1
its easy to have a kill switch wired to your handlebars.
A brake cut off? unnecessary. A easy to reach killswitch? a must.
You can easily make your own brake cut off if you wish... just get a small micro switch, then glue/epoxy/tape/ziptie it to your brakes so that pulling on the brake throws the switch. then wire the +ve line of the throttle via the switches 'NC' tabs and presto! you keep your own high quality brakes/levers, with a reliable killswitch bolted on! all for about $3 worth of stuff.
jateureka
10 kW
mikebikerad said:
Don't know about that seller.
I bought mine ( called hidden wire brake sensor or HWBS) from BTN on AliExpress.com.au
wesnewell
100 GW
This is why you need an ebrakes (motor cutoff in brake handles).
Your going 20mph and something runs in front of you. Bus, car, child, take your pick. Normal human reaction will be to squeeze the brake handles fast. And by the time you realize you aren't stopping, it's too late to hit your kill switch. You are possibly someone else is dead. You don't have even the 1 second it may take to hit your kill switch first. Look up how far you travel in 1 second at 20mph. About 30 ft. Now check how far that'll put you into an intersection.
Your going 20mph and something runs in front of you. Bus, car, child, take your pick. Normal human reaction will be to squeeze the brake handles fast. And by the time you realize you aren't stopping, it's too late to hit your kill switch. You are possibly someone else is dead. You don't have even the 1 second it may take to hit your kill switch first. Look up how far you travel in 1 second at 20mph. About 30 ft. Now check how far that'll put you into an intersection.
dumbass
100 kW
wesnewell +1...
Everyone is going to have their own opinion on this and there's no way to convince them otherwise. With luck they will relize the value of an e-brake before they get hurt.
sn0wchyld... Unless a bike has some type of special brake handle why would anyone want to re-invent the wheel when e-brake handles are so inexpensive and easy to get. I bought 2 sets (l & R) and I think they were only $12 a set and the handles were alm.
Isn't the switch in an e-brake handle a normally closed switch? If so why couldn't the hall control wire pass through it. If it is a NC switch as soon as you brake the switch opens the throttle.
Bob
Everyone is going to have their own opinion on this and there's no way to convince them otherwise. With luck they will relize the value of an e-brake before they get hurt.
sn0wchyld... Unless a bike has some type of special brake handle why would anyone want to re-invent the wheel when e-brake handles are so inexpensive and easy to get. I bought 2 sets (l & R) and I think they were only $12 a set and the handles were alm.
Isn't the switch in an e-brake handle a normally closed switch? If so why couldn't the hall control wire pass through it. If it is a NC switch as soon as you brake the switch opens the throttle.
Bob
ebent
10 kW
My throttle has a kill switch, on/off. I think some kind of a dissconect in the drivers eye and hand reach adds to the ability to avoid a kaotic stressful situation. The switch also helps avoid mishaps when parking after a ride. I bumped the throttle once, wasn't good. I turn to off as I prepare to park. I'll fully disconect an anderson if I'm done riding.
MikeFairbanks
100 kW
I don't use them, and figure that if my throttle is ever stuck then I'll either be really early or very late to work that day.
