onlineaddy
1 W
I have an old bike I wish to electrify. It has Shimano Deore LX shifters with integrated brake lever. How do I install e-brake levers to this setup?
E-brake install
- Thread starter onlineaddy
- Start date
el_walto
10 kW
Get an ebrake that uses a magnet switch. Take the magnet and sensor out and attach them to your brake levers. Or just cut off the brake part with a dremel?
You could also just use a push button instead of an ebrake, or not use an ebrake at all.
You could also just use a push button instead of an ebrake, or not use an ebrake at all.
onlineaddy
1 W
So this being mechanical is not what you're recommending, correct?
Source: http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=102
Source: http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=102
el_walto
10 kW
Well they do function, the ebrakes are not required.
Those ones use a mechanical switch instead of magnetic, not sure if you could take the switch out or not.
If your kit doesnt support Regen brakeing, i'd not even bother installing an ebrake part. If you are using them with a geared motor, such as the MAC, all they would do is cut off all power to the motor when pushing the brakes.
Those ones use a mechanical switch instead of magnetic, not sure if you could take the switch out or not.
If your kit doesnt support Regen brakeing, i'd not even bother installing an ebrake part. If you are using them with a geared motor, such as the MAC, all they would do is cut off all power to the motor when pushing the brakes.
onlineaddy
1 W
Right, with a geared motor. So, just letting off the throttle and applying my own Shimano brake levers is sufficient to stop?
el_walto
10 kW
Yes. Ebrakes don't really work with geared motors due to an internal freewheel. All they would do is cut the throttle, which you would do regardless when you want to slow down. Just don't connect them, unless you really need them to meet some regulations in your country or something.
melodious
100 kW
Do you have cruise control function in your controller? If so, I'd highly suggest installing an E-brake. You could even go so far as installing both R & L E-brakes, but one should do (front E-brake is more practical unless it's wet pavement). Worst case scenario is you having a jolly good time cruising at 25+mph and you need to slam on your brakes to avoid a collision. 
onlineaddy
1 W
Yes, there is CC. If I were to somehow rig the e-brakes to my shifters, how do I brake to both the controller and to the wheel rims at the same time?
Brake cut-offswitches should always be fitted if you can. They're absolutely essential if you have any type of cruise control. Install just a back one as a minimum.
If you have those integrared brake/shifters, you have several choices:
1. Get these switches. You have to connect the red and black wires to the throttle red and black, and the signal wire to your controller's low voltage brake signal wire. To use two, you can join the wires together, but you need a diode in the signal wire of each.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor.html
2. Make your own brake switches. They should be normally open, and close when you operate the brake. Connect the two wires to the controller's low voltage brake switch.
3. Get one of these and cut off the brake switch. It clips on to the cable and works really well. Join the two wires to your low voltage brake switch connector.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3-1-Cycling-Bicycle-Bike-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-7-LED-Light-Electric-Horn-/271093185512?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4101840243721280592%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D370705625724%26
4. Chuck your integrated shifters and get separate ones so that you can use standard ebrakes.
If you have those integrared brake/shifters, you have several choices:
1. Get these switches. You have to connect the red and black wires to the throttle red and black, and the signal wire to your controller's low voltage brake signal wire. To use two, you can join the wires together, but you need a diode in the signal wire of each.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor.html
2. Make your own brake switches. They should be normally open, and close when you operate the brake. Connect the two wires to the controller's low voltage brake switch.
3. Get one of these and cut off the brake switch. It clips on to the cable and works really well. Join the two wires to your low voltage brake switch connector.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3-1-Cycling-Bicycle-Bike-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-7-LED-Light-Electric-Horn-/271093185512?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4101840243721280592%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D370705625724%26
4. Chuck your integrated shifters and get separate ones so that you can use standard ebrakes.
onlineaddy
1 W
I would like to use the e-brakes for safety. But, even if I didn't have integrated shifter/brake, I'm still clueless as to how I can set up my braking to brake electronically (to the controller) and mechanically (to the wheel rim) simultaneously. Does the e-brake also pull on the Shimano brakes in addition to cutting off power to the motor?
el_walto
10 kW
onlineaddy said:
Yes, it has a wire that comes from it, and it takes a standard brake cable, takes closer looks at the picture you posted.
onlineaddy
1 W
el_walto said:
I think I see what you mean. Got it. Thanks, all. I'm going to wait until I receive my kit and then figure out a way to replace my existing brake levers (though integrated they may be) with the e-brake ones.
rkosiorek
100 kW
there is a thread titled "Using Reed Switches for Ebrakes"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11760
it gives a couple of examples how to mount reed switches and magnets to your existing levers.
even if you do not use them i always recommend having working ebrakes on your bike. they are required in alost all jurisdictions. if you don't have them and there is ever a legal issue or question of liability...
the last time i mounted them, i used a small metal clip to clamp the reed switch to the lever body. i drilled an tapped an M3 hole in the lever body. to hold the magnet, i used a 0.25" diameter 0.25" long magnet. i drilled a 0.250" hole in the lever and pushed the magnet into the hole. i then lightly staked the edges of the hole to hold the magnet in place.
rick
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11760
it gives a couple of examples how to mount reed switches and magnets to your existing levers.
even if you do not use them i always recommend having working ebrakes on your bike. they are required in alost all jurisdictions. if you don't have them and there is ever a legal issue or question of liability...
the last time i mounted them, i used a small metal clip to clamp the reed switch to the lever body. i drilled an tapped an M3 hole in the lever body. to hold the magnet, i used a 0.25" diameter 0.25" long magnet. i drilled a 0.250" hole in the lever and pushed the magnet into the hole. i then lightly staked the edges of the hole to hold the magnet in place.
rick
Hey guys, so I've learned that my generic Chinese e-brake lever is probably NO. The button/switch is normally depressed and then undepressed when I squeeze the lever. I want to start using the e-brake function but want to use my existing brake levers though. Can someone confirm that the switch in this product ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-LED-Bicycle-Bike-Turn-Signal-Directional-Brake-Light-Lamp-8-sound-Horn-AP-/111613105342?hash=item19fca8d4be:g:cwQAAOSw2s1UtjnV ) (also referenced by d8veh in #3 above) that I will cut off and connect to my controller's 2 pin e-brake connector will work without any further modification? I ask because this button/switch is normally undepressed, then depressed when the lever is squeezed. Thanks.
tmho
1 kW
I used this one from taobao.com. May be you can find it from ebay.
hey, thanks tmho. I already ordered the brake light kit so hope the brake light switch part works. Found out that the button/switch used in the generic e-brakes are normally closed (NC), hence, the brake lever in its normal position depresses/actuates it into NO. That's what confused me. I think the brake light switch will be NO, so it should work.
I thought about the magnet style too as an alternative. But I prefer this brake light switch as I will just clip it on to my rear brake cable (so less wires up front!). If the brake light switch doesn't work will go your route. Thanks again.
I thought about the magnet style too as an alternative. But I prefer this brake light switch as I will just clip it on to my rear brake cable (so less wires up front!). If the brake light switch doesn't work will go your route. Thanks again.
The switch in that light kit works perfectly on any cable brake. It has two wires and the switch goes on when you operate the brake just like any other brake switch.
Other easy options for a brake switch are:
The sensor off a cycle computer. It also has two wires. Screw the magnet to somewhere where the inner cable is exposed and position the sensor nearby so that the magnet moves over the sensor when you operate the brake. the best position is on the crossbar id you have exposed inner cables running along it. You have to experiment a bit to adjust the magnet into the position for the correct switching point.
Hidden wire brake sensor (HWBS). https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor-1pcs-parts.html
Modern controllers have the three-wire connector. If you have two-wire connectors, the yellow goes to ground (black) and blue to the signal wire (not black), then you need to join the red wire to any other 5v red, like the PAS or throttle red. Most of the 5v reds are joined to the controller in a bunch. Often there's a spare pad where they solder. so you can add a wire if you don't want to splice into the throttle or PAS.
Other options are any normally closed reed switch (some have three wires and can me NC or NO) and a magnet. Fix them to a brake lever so that the magnet comes to the switch when you operate the brake. Not as safe, but you can use a normally open reed switch and move the magnet away from it when you operate the brake.
Lastly, you can use a hall sensor and a magnet, which works the same as a reed switch, but you need a 5v supply wire and probably a pull-down resistor to ensure good switching.
Other easy options for a brake switch are:
The sensor off a cycle computer. It also has two wires. Screw the magnet to somewhere where the inner cable is exposed and position the sensor nearby so that the magnet moves over the sensor when you operate the brake. the best position is on the crossbar id you have exposed inner cables running along it. You have to experiment a bit to adjust the magnet into the position for the correct switching point.
Hidden wire brake sensor (HWBS). https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor-1pcs-parts.html
Modern controllers have the three-wire connector. If you have two-wire connectors, the yellow goes to ground (black) and blue to the signal wire (not black), then you need to join the red wire to any other 5v red, like the PAS or throttle red. Most of the 5v reds are joined to the controller in a bunch. Often there's a spare pad where they solder. so you can add a wire if you don't want to splice into the throttle or PAS.
Other options are any normally closed reed switch (some have three wires and can me NC or NO) and a magnet. Fix them to a brake lever so that the magnet comes to the switch when you operate the brake. Not as safe, but you can use a normally open reed switch and move the magnet away from it when you operate the brake.
Lastly, you can use a hall sensor and a magnet, which works the same as a reed switch, but you need a 5v supply wire and probably a pull-down resistor to ensure good switching.
Marin
1 kW
I have a cable sensor ebrake switch on my integrated brake shifter. It installs on the brake cable.
Mine came from golden motors.
Mine came from golden motors.
Thanks for showing other options guys. d8veh thanks for confirming the brake light switch and like your old cycle computer with magnet idea. shucks, I have one of those. Hopefully I'll get many years of good service out of the brake light switch; but if it fails, good to know I can mod my old cycle computer.
Due to a bad Amazon seller, my brake light kit never arrived. Decided to try the old speedo cycle computer mod. I attached the sensor and magnet on the rear brake cable. Works great, thanks again d8veh. I was happy to just have the ebrake as a cutoff. After installing it, as a bonus, learned that with my KT-LCD3, I have brake regen too. So satisfied.
