Fit double wide 26" rims on Kona Stinky? (nOOb question)

methods

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Total nOOb question.

I have a 2002 Kona Stinky frame.
Front forks are 2002 marzocchi bomber

I am not looking for someone to say "Yes, they will fit" or "measure it to the mm"
I am just looking for some common sense, rule of thumb wisdom.

(Question)
In general when people step up to a double wide rim and >3" wide tire do they step down to a 24" rim?

It seems like the big tires I have been looking at would make up the inch difference and end up rolling like a 26" anyway.

Any common sense that is shared would be appreciated. I am almost done with my Project Mayhem bike and I want wheels/tires that look like these when I am done:
http://e-mtb.com.au/images/Silent%20Guerilla%201.jpg
http://e-mtb.com.au/images/Electric%20Motard%205.JPG


Thanks in advance

-methods
 

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Hi Methods,

the first shot looks like 24" rims to me, the guy from emtb (i think his name was Ian) has some really nice bikes and we mailed a few times exchanging info and i recall him having 24's for sure.
the second shot i'm not so sure, because he has laced custom rims (look like m/c) he can take his pick of matching tyres slick or knobby.
For my kona i went to 24" double walled rim and 3" wide knobbys to match - both made by halo and both highly recomended btw!!
the size of my wheel across from edge to edge of tyre is 25" and they fit well for width too, the rear has lots of clearence but where you have to look is between the forks.
Because the wheel is slightly smaller the curve of the top of the fork legs starts a little early so mind that the tyre clears, mine ended up with 2mm either side but it was closer than i guessed it would be.
measure the smallest space between the forks - the HALO contra tyres (24") are supposed to be 3" wide but the front is actually 2.7", luckily for me.
i think these are beefy enough for mtb - i must say though that i went for 24's for 2 reasons, first i didn't want to lose torque with my hub and second my bike fits me perfectly on them and was a little big on 26".

Cheers,

D
 
Thanks for the info.
It was your DC1 that pushed me over the edge and made me buy the Stink =)
Glad I did now!

I was looking for the Halo tires after I first saw your thread. I think they are more common in areas other than the US.

Your logic makes sense. My only worry is that I am 6'4" and the bike is already small for me on 26" but there is NO WAY those tires would fit into my forks with a 26" now that I think about it. . . Even my little skinny tires are close enough that I worry about them.

Ok then, 24" is the answer.

luckily I already have one =) I have the 24" downhill rim that came with the bike, named "double wide"
I will get some spokes and lace it up.

Thanks for your help!

That extra inch will increase my torque :lol: Doc claims no loss of top end when he stepped down. I suspect I will lose a MPH or two but that is fine cuz 45mph is too fast !

-methods
 
Hi Methods,

yes the stinky is a good bike for a base :)
yes i think you'll be fine on 24's with fat tyres, maybe lose a little in size but not much at all, i dont think you'd get the same bulky tyres on a 26 but i may be wrong, worth having a look at what 26" have to offer in tyres before you spend any money.
got my halo's from http://www.chainreaction.com - not sure where they are from but i cant see why you couldn't order some if you want them?
i'll have a nosey at 26" tyres later and try to find a few for comparison.

Cheers,


D
 
wtf?

that store is like 30 minutes from my house.
Weird. . . Every Google search turned up stuff over seas
Maybe they import them or maybe they are just more popular in the UK.

Thanks for the link!

-methods
 
Oh. . . Wait. . .

You went with a double wall, not a double wide.

I was under the impression that you would need wider rims for a 3" tire.

So how does that phat tire run on the skinny rim?
If you had it to do over would you go with a wider rim or keep the same?

thanks,
-methods
 
Yesterday I happened to measure my "3.0" streetish 24, its 24" from the widest portion to widest portion of the tire inflated and mounted. So I figure the frame 12" up from the drops would tell you if the width would work for this type of tire.

My rim is a 1.75 whatever that means. I'm guessing this street tire is about 2.75" wide on the rim, but I will double check with a caliper. OD too. I think the size printed on the rim means nothing in relation to the bead to bead width of the rim. Anyway heres a chart thats been referenced before, but even out the box bikes are pushing the limits shown. It doesn't go all the way up to 3.0 but maybe theres some way to extrapolate up. Also, the unicycle guys are into the oversized tires and rims, their forums are probably a good source of info on what combos work and what dont.
 

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Hi Methods,

sorry i missed your reply dood,
i would buy the same again as im totally happy with my wheels and tyres.
The Halo rims (either SAS (pinned and welded) or Combats (just pinned) ) are 31mm wide and the Halo contra's are made for those rims so fit an absolute treat - if the 24" dh rim you have is 31mm or close they should be ok?

*edit* one other thing i did think about for your bike size methods, i don't know if they still do them but in my bmxing days you used to be able to buy a seatpost known as a "lay back" it was essentially a curved seatpost that moved the seat back 3" or so - if you could make one or still buy one it could really give you some extra knee space???




cheers,

D
 
Great idea. Someone else mentioned a "lay back" seat as well. I am going to check into that.

I had a blowout going 35mph the other day.
I ran to the bike store and picked up some Intense Downhill 2.5" wide 26" tires to hold me off. These things are like motorcycle tires!

So as far as fit:
There is an easy inch in the front. I could run 26" or 24" with a 3.5" no problems
The rear is TIGHT. REAL TIGHT for a 26". I had to remove my rear U-Brake. Looking at the shape of the rear it is now *clear* that it was designed with a 3" wide 24" tall tire. If I swapped to a setup like you have I would be in perfect shape.

I am thinking that I will keep the 26" in the front and lace the double wide 24" in the rear. Yesterday I orderd spokes from ebikes.ca to lace my 5305 into the 24" rim.

thanks,
-methods
 
HI methods, that could work, there wouldn't be too much difference between a 24 and a 26, i considered it myeslf but i wanted them to be the same size so went with 24's front and rear.
definately look into a lay back post, it will give you some more leg room no doubt about it.
if you are comfortable on the bike but it's a little closer to the groung than before it's no biggy, i ran my stink on 20's for a while :shock:


Cheers,

D
 
methods said:
Great idea. Someone else mentioned a "lay back" seat as well. I am going to check into that.

I had a blowout going 35mph the other day.
I ran to the bike store and picked up some Intense Downhill 2.5" wide 26" tires to hold me off. These things are like motorcycle tires!

So as far as fit:
There is an easy inch in the front. I could run 26" or 24" with a 3.5" no problems
The rear is TIGHT. REAL TIGHT for a 26". I had to remove my rear U-Brake. Looking at the shape of the rear it is now *clear* that it was designed with a 3" wide 24" tall tire. If I swapped to a setup like you have I would be in perfect shape.

I am thinking that I will keep the 26" in the front and lace the double wide 24" in the rear. Yesterday I orderd spokes from ebikes.ca to lace my 5305 into the 24" rim.

thanks,
-methods

If you ordered the 12 gage spokes for the 24" rim, you may feel they are two short to join the nipple like the problem i had... let me know if you have the same problem.
 
Hmmm, not familiar with the problem you had.
I ordered them from ebikes.ca and I *think* they use 13gauge.

So I took a hard ride today and finally blew out my hall sensors. I dont know what happened but when I measure the +5V wire is shorted to the Ground wire. I assume one of the Hall sensors is doing this.

The motor is off the bike so I am going to go ahead and do all of the following:

* 11 tooth sprocket (replacing a 14 tooth)
* Lace to the "double wide" 24" downhill rim
* Temperature probe to Kelly for auto shut-down
* New wires all the way to the board
* New Anderson connectors (had them hardwired with 8 gauge)
* And of course, new hall sensor(s).

I suppose I need to search around to see if I can find a higher temperature hall sensor.
I sure wish the Kelly would allow me to do peddle first. Maybe I will ask them.
I am starting to understand the ebikes.ca mentality of limiting failure modes. . . No ebrakes, no hall sensors, no cruise control, etc.

-methods
 
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