Gary Fisher new bike

[latecurtis]

I am posting a new thread only because I got a Gary fisher mountain bike from a friend as my currie ezip is being upgraded to 36 volts and fixed at my friend huberts garage, hopefully. The Gary fisher is going to be a whole new project. It wont be used for hauling groceries or pulling shopping carts around like the currie with the three 22AH hour lead batteries. It wont be weighing in at 100 pounds either. The Gary Fisher will be getting a front wheel kit and lipo batteries. My first question is I need a front wheel kit that will work with my disk brakes. also I am looking for a top speed at least 60 mph.

http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/AKfEcqkCgUVz/China-Hot-100km-H-3kw-Hub-Motor-for-Electric-Bike-3000W-Hub-Motor-Wheel-for-Electric-Bicycle.html


and 4 of these


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16228__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8000mAh_6S1P_30C_.html

let me know about these products or if anyone has any better ideas. thanks. latecurtis.

 

[melodious]

The Gary Fisher will be getting a front wheel kit and lipo batteries. My first question is I need a front wheel kit that will work with my disk brakes. also I am looking for a top speed at least 60 mph.

agh! Too fast for a bicycle. Too powerful for a front motored wheel. Tone down on the power levels before Evil Knievel turns in his grave!

 

[MadRhino]

Yep, too fast to be safe for a front wheel build. You want a rear motor for that kind of performance, and a bike to handle it safely.

Gary Fisher bikes are few to be suitable. I would trust to build a powerful bike on a Large Kingfisher frame for an example.

Cromotor, 18 fet 4110 controller... and the best brakes that you can afford.

 

[Drunkskunk]

And the Bad idea of the year award goes to....

The wreck you have will be featured on the next episode of "Faces of Death" or "1000 ways to Die". it will be epic.

The amount of power needed to go 60 will snap a bicycle fork, and probably break the headset on most frames. count on your front end separating from the bike at some point.

As MadRhino said, there are very few GFs that can handle 60mph. If yours isn't one of the DH bikes, don't even consider this, even with a rear wheel motor.

 

[mattrb]

I love thousand ways ways to die

 

[cal3thousand]

I'm going to chime in my concurrence with the others. Don't do it. You don't want to be known as the late latecurtis.

 

[skeetab5780]

I own a 04 GF King Fisher II also, Its my only bike that is not electric, I love it!

Good luck mounting batteries

 

[Chalo]

also I am looking for a top speed at least 60 mph.

That's motorcycle speed. Start with a motorcycle chassis if you want to do that.

If you haven't ridden 60mph on a bicycle before, just trust us that it's not something you want to do on a regular basis. By the time you have built a safe and reliable 60mph bike, it won't pass for a bicycle and you'll have to register it anyway.

Also, the hub motor you linked to is a rear wheel for a motorcycle and is spaced 142mm. Bicycle forks are mostly spaced 100mm.

Oh, and with four of those batteries you will have minuscule range at 60mph. You'll need more than 100A at 88V to hold 60mph. That means you'll suck your batteries empty in less than 5 minutes at full power.

If this is your first e-bike build, think more along the lines of 25mph if you want to use a mostly stock bicycle. That's less than 1/12 as much power required, with correspondingly lower stresses on the bike.

 

[MadRhino]

The amount of power needed to go 60 will snap a bicycle fork, and probably break the headset on most frames. count on your front end separating from the bike at some point.

Hehe
Here is a Gary Fisher with a broken neck, and that was without a motor.

Only 2 GF bikes IMO, to safely handle that kind of power: King Fisher and king Fisher 2
The new ones are now sold by Trek, and they don't make them big Gary Fisher frames anymore. Trek big FS frames are the Session series. My Session 10 could handle 60 HP and 100 mph, if only I could find a way to feed it that much power.

 

[latecurtis]

darn it and after reading this

agh! Too fast for a bicycle. Too powerful for a front motored wheel. Tone down on the power levels before Evil Knievel turns in his grave!

I was thinking about being the first person with an e bike to jump over a school bus. I was thinking about an 8 foot swimming pool with no water but filled up with Styrofoam balls and air mattresses covering the bottom of the pool.

I guess I will have to postpone my jump and just get a cheap front wheel kit like the magic pie only cheaper and 48 volts. with lipo batteries and a total weight of about 275 pounds 240 for me and 35 for the bike with the front wheel kit. how many lipos would it take to go 100 miles between charges. that's using the 22.2 volt batteries in series with each wired in parallel to as many as needed to get 100 miles at an average speed of 10 mph.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Hub-Kit-Front-Rear-Wheel-Ebike36-48V250-500-800-1000W-/291119531800?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43c8138718

 

[Sunder]

It seems like you've very quickly gone from being unable to pay for even the smallest upgrade, to wanting top of the line gear. 60mph? 100 mile range? I'm not sure if you've suddenly come into some money, or aren't being realistic about what you can afford, but it might be time to slow down and think this purchase through.

Unless you're travelling sub 20mph and doing pedal assist instead of electric bike, I'd say a 100 mile range is an unrealistic goal without a cargo bike or a trailer.

All those things you're asking for are certainly desirable, but unless you just won the lotto, I recommend you list the absolute minimum you couldn't do without. The level where you would say "If I can't get that, I might as well walk on my dodgy knees". People here can then suggest parts and budget, and if you do have left over cash, we can advise you on whether you can get more speed, range or convenience.

 

[Drunkskunk]

Estimating 100 miles range at 10 miles an hour is a bit tricky, as you aren't running at the motor's most efficient points, so small factors can really throw off the range.

My bike is capable of it, although my ass isn't. i couldn't sit on a bike seat for 10 hours, however I run 12 of those 22.2V, 5Ah packs, making 1337 watts, and can get 10 to 11 AH per mile at 10mph if I ride carefully. That gives me a comfortable reserve so I don't kill the packs on that ride, but a long slow hill or an unexpected breeze would kill those numbers.


Its much easier to estimate range at 20mph, as small changes in wind or hills don't affect the range to as great of an extent at 20. The motor and controller in a normal ebike system are operating more into their efficient zone, and while they use more power, the usage is more predictable.

We generally say 36 watts per mile of capacity is needed at 20mph.

 

[DAND214]

Why must you insist on a frt wheel when you can't fix what you have?

Not a good idea!

Dan

 

[Chalo]

Why must you insist on a frt wheel when you can't fix what you have?

Not a good idea!

It isn't a bad idea to put the weak wheel (the one with a hub motor) in the front (where both wheel stresses and dish are somewhat less than in the rear).

 

[skeetab5780]

Ya notice in the picture with the broken head tube, the king fisher in the background of the pic isn't broken..

These bike clearly take a beating, the stock 1.5" Manitou forks are fairly bad and its 20mm thru axle so if you front hubbie you'll probably need to do something there.
Heres mine after a few years, there is not much room for speed watt-hours...anywhere

 

[latecurtis]

DAND214 wrote:
Why must you insist on a frt wheel when you can't fix what you have?

That in fact is not entirely true. It so happens that A guy named Hubert I met is fixing the currie it as we speak. He is not only fixing it He is totally rebuilding the bike.
He is an older guy that happens to have 15 years of college under his belt as an electrical engineer and mechanical engineer. I believe he holds masters degrees. I saw the bike yesterday He removed the electrodes as well as the old currie case that sat on them. He professionally mounted the two batteries by fabricating a plate on the frame to hold the batteries in place. The charging port is now on the side of the metal compartment of the controller box. The new 36 volt controller is mounted on the other side with all the plugs going into a hole he made on the side of the old controller box. There is a new power switch on the back of the controller box as the old one had a crack in it. There is absolutely no electrical tape and only professional connectors used. He also refuses to bypass the brake sensors and they will be fully functional also. He will also hook up the Lyle cruise control with the adapters that hook into the brake sensors and throttle wires. Its childs play to him. His abilities are equal to the best of the members on this forum and I will be sending pictures to prove it when the bike is done.
However the bike will still be a heavy beast and the Gary Fisher will be my future project so that I will have a faster and lighter bike with a 48 volt front wheel system powered by lipo. I hopefully be getting a custom safety storage compartment built by my friend Hubert to house the lipo packs I will be needing for that. The front wheel kit should be simple enough for me to be doing most of the mounting on that. That's why I am choosing a front wheel kit. Hubert is very safety oriented and will help me in the transition to lipo. His bike does not have a motor but he has custom installed a flashing light system on the front and back powered by a 7Ah battery that is professionally mounted as well as a rear view mirror. He got hit by a car on his old bike and got the new one and customized it when he got his settlement. He is not charging me near what a bike shop would. I wish I could be half as good as him someday.