When installing a 7 speed freewheel onto the HS3540 do I just screw it on till it's tight? Do I need any washers between the freewheel and the hub motor? It feels pretty stiff to turn by hand. Do I need to lubricate it? How hard should I tighten it? It's my first time working with a rear wheel.
Help with 7 speed freewheel installation
- Thread starter electr0n
- Start date
Ykick
1 GW
Where to start? You can get away without a modified freewheel socket tool when installing but you better make sure you don't need a washer/spacer to hold the freewheel away from the hub motor covers before you crank the thing down.
I think it's best to just go ahead and use a washer/spacer 100% of the time but I understand not every installation needs one. Do a search around here for freewheel removal tool and read experiences about it.
I think it's best to just go ahead and use a washer/spacer 100% of the time but I understand not every installation needs one. Do a search around here for freewheel removal tool and read experiences about it.
richirich1113
100 W
Some freewheels do require a washer between the freewheel and the hub. Otherwise the freewheel will screw up tight to the hub and not want to spin.
Can I just get the washer at a hardware store? I'm pretty clueless with this. I'm assuming the washer sits in the free wheel just in front of the threaded portion? I should be able to spin the freewheel easily by hand once it's been tightened right? Sorry for the retarded questions 
Kingfish
100 MW
I used the Lawyer's Lips (C) Washer first against the freewheel, then if more room is still required - a flat washer is inserted :wink:electr0n said:Can I just get the washer at a hardware store? I'm pretty clueless with this. I'm assuming the washer sits in the free wheel just in front of the threaded portion? I should be able to spin the freewheel easily by hand once it's been tightened right? Sorry for the retarded questions
~KF
kfong
100 kW
The freewheel will tighten itself from use. The problem you will likely have is more of a removal issue. Be sure to lubricate or use anti-seize compound. I had to replace my freewheel this past fall. I was a major pain to remove.
I went to the hardware store and got some spacer washers and sprayed a little lube on them and got the freewheel installed properly. Now I can spin it by hand easily enough.
I know those freewheels can be very hard to remove. When I take my bike into the shop to replace broken spokes on my rear wheel I see the guy uses a pretty huge wrench and has to use a lot of force to get the freewheel off. I think a lot of leverage makes it easier.
I know those freewheels can be very hard to remove. When I take my bike into the shop to replace broken spokes on my rear wheel I see the guy uses a pretty huge wrench and has to use a lot of force to get the freewheel off. I think a lot of leverage makes it easier.
Kingfish
100 MW
Slowly, through the months - I have acquired many of the tools used by these bike shopselectr0n said:
The one capital piece of equipment left to purchase is the bike stand
Adding an hydraulic hoist to my wish list, KF
docnjoj
1 GW
I use a Harbor Freight hoist screwed into the ceeling joist to lift the end of a trike. It is good for up to 500 lbs and costs about 7 bucks! I would love a hydraulic table but it is too big to fit in the workroom and my wife doesn't like it as living room decor.
otherDoc
otherDoc
dogman dan
1 PW
The spacer washer refered to is a special one that goes behind the freewheel On some motors, a spacer is needed to keep the large sprocket from rubbin the motor cover. I don't know if clyte needs one, 9c motors sometimes do.
Other spacer washers can be needed to make the small sprocket clear the frame, depending on the frame, and the sprocket.
Other spacer washers can be needed to make the small sprocket clear the frame, depending on the frame, and the sprocket.
Paul_G
10 kW
docnjoj said:
This lift works well with my Stealth Bomber.
http://www.slyfoxmx.com/pd-motocross-lift.cfm
mxer
1 kW
I have just fitted a DNP 7 speed freewheel and used a washer, I also noticed the freewheel had alot of unsupported area within the DNP (could be a factor of many broken hub threads?) so i fitted a standard bearing to help with support...
shock
1 kW
Can you tell me more about the bearing you used, size, where you got it, etc? This is a REALLY good idea. I also see that your axle is like mine, and the part where the axle is full round to hold washers is recessed within the hub. Is this ok do do, are you using the bearing for lateral support also?
Thanks for your help
-Joe
Thanks for your help
-Joe
Duc998
10 W
+1 please post more details
