Jamis Boss Cruiser Electric Conversion

A1234LIFE

10 mW
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Messages
34
Location
Tallahassee, FL
The bike is a Jamis Boss Cruiser 7-Speed purchased from a local bike shop in Tallahassee. It is a very comfortable aluminum frame bike with a steel fork. The motor is a Crystalite Phoenix Cruiser 5304 using a 4840 Electronic Speed Controller. The battery power originally came from 4 B&B Batteries HR12-15 Sealed AGM Lead Acid batteries, connected in series for a 48V 13AH battery. This conversion was very simple and the picture shown below shows the finished product. This worked great and easily handled the eight miles (two mile trip, to work, home for lunch, back to work, home) I traveled to work each day, although it did struggle on a couple of 10% grades I had to climb. The only thing I really thought I could improve on was the batteries. The SLA’s are heavy, almost 40 lbs, and do a terrible job of holding voltage under high current. My controller limited current to 40A but this was still enough to drop the pack under 40V. So, I figured at best I was getting 1600W out of the battery.
 

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At this point, I experimented with some Lithium Polymer batteries that I use for radio control helicopters. The packs were 5s 4000mah packs and I connected three in series to create a 15s 4000mah pack. The power was really incredible but at only 4000mah, I just did not have enough range. They are also very expensive and pretty delicate as well. I did not see these packs surviving every day use on the bike.

I finally started researching A123 cells and found quite a few people using them on bicycles. I had never really considered them because for radio control they are still too heavy for the models I fly. However, for bicycles they looked like a great cell.

I had a starting point from my experience with the SLA batteries. I knew that I used about 40Wh per mile and I needed a range of at least eight miles. So, I figured I needed a pack that would be rated at 320Wh * 1.25 (for a margin of safety) = 400Wh. A123’s are commonly quoted as 6.9Wh cells which meant I would need about 58 cells and A123 packs conveniently have ten cells so I bought six packs from Ebay for a total of sixty cells. Getting the cells out of the packs is not terribly difficult but it is time consuming.

I initially decided to create a 15s4p pack out of the cells. This is where I tried something a little different. I wanted to be able to get to each individual cell for charging or monitoring and I liked the idea of having somewhat modular packs to create a variety of configurations. I finally decided to create 4 cell flat packs with a six inch piece of 16 gauge Dean’s Ultra wire on each terminal with an APP connector at the end. These cells are not connected to each other electrically in any way, they are just connected mechanically to each other reinforced packing tape and heavy duty rubberized shrink wrap.

I was very concerned about how much voltage I would lose because of all the connectors and 16 gauge wire, so I did an analysis of the power loss due to the resistance of the wire and connectors. If I limit the current to 40A, each 15s pack will only see 10 amps. At this low current level the cells hold their voltage very well, actually above 3 volts per cell. I calculated a value of 3.061V per cell using 10A and an internal resistance of .0089 Ohms, which yields a pack voltage of 45.9V under the 10A load. When I figured the voltage drop from the wire and connectors, I calculated an additional drop of .73V for a pack voltage of 45.2V. This seemed perfectly acceptable to me, so I went on with the pack construction.

I made fifteen of these packs and then connected the first cell from all packs together in series, second cell from all packs together in series, third cell from all packs in series, and the last cell from all packs together in series. This gave me four 15s packs. I then made a couple of harnesses that could plug into these four packs using 16 gauge wire and plug into a large 50A APP connector. All of this fit very neatly into a Topeak MTX bag and weighs about 14 lbs.
 

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This bag and rack combination work really well. I like being able to simply slide the bag off the bike and take the batteries with me. My charging equipment is setup in an upstairs den so it is very convenient to be able to easily carry just the batteries into the house. I believe I can get a 20s4p setup into the bag, which is probably where I am heading with this project.

bag_mounted.JPG

 
I have a Schulze 636+ charger that will charge up to 15s LiFePo4 batteries. I have charged the pack in the 15s4p configuration and it takes just over three hours. There is no balancing done with this setup and I did notice that there is some difference in the individual voltages, they all ranged from 3.50V to 3.70V. I think I can live with this and just worry about balanicng the packs on the weekend.

I just purchased an inexpensive 3.3V@20A 100W switching power supply from http://www.powersupply.depot.
http://www.powersupplydepot.com/productview.asp?product=16010+PS

The voltage is adjustable +/- 10% and I actually found that it would go as high as 4.00V. I set it on 3.65V and charged 4 cells in parallel. These cells had been discharged in series at 9A until the pack voltage dropped to 11.0V, so the cells were basically empty. It took just under an hour for the current to drop below 100ma and I stopped the charge. The initial charge current was about 14A and then stays pretty steady around 10A through most of the charge. I did some testing and it reaches a steady state at about 38ma, so I believe I could leave it plugged in overnight without any problems. The issue for me is that I need to charge 60 cells and I am certainly not buying 15 of these. I will probably end up buying two more and having each one charge 20 cells. My estimate is that this would take about five hours which is fine with me.

powersupply.JPG
 
I decided to get a Cycle Analyst and knew I would have to open the controller to solder in the connector. I figured I might as well replace the MOSFETs with the 4110's and increase the current handling by adding some solder to the shunt. It was a bit tedious but I didn't have any problems (thanks to the guide in the tech section) and ended up with the shunt having a resistance of .81mOhms instead of the original 1.1mOhms. This increased the limit to almost 60A.

cycle_analyst.JPG
 
It works just like I hoped. The top speed on level ground is 30mph. The cycle analyst recorded the following on a 10.5 mile ride.

Distance = 10.48 mi
Capacity Used = 8.435 Ah
Power Used = 37.3 Wh/mi
Vmin = 43.6V
Amax = 59.87A
Speed Max = 34 mph
Speed Avg. = 20.3 mph

It should also be noted that the pack voltage held above 44V with the 60A current bursts, until the last minute or so of the ride which is when I got the 43.6V reading. I am really happy with these numbers but I may still go to a 20s4p pack. My modular pack setup makes it very easy to just build five more of the four cell packs and plug them in.
 
Slick.

8)
 
Good work! You're promoted to master hardware hacker :twisted:

That power supply looks like just the ticket for high powered charging. One for each cell. Good find.
 
Great setup A1234Life!

About the DC-DC, i seen today 3 auctions ended to 65$ !!!

One auction for 45 DC-DC 3.3V 15A

and another auction for 65 DC-DC 3.3V 20A !!! 65$ for 65 unit!! 1$ per dc-dc!!!

charging to 20A..!!! Plus, LUCENT technology are very accurate!

the power supply needed for supplying these would cost maybe 50-100$ dor 500W...

think about that! :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for all the comments. I will look into the DC-DC options for charging. The only problem I have right now is that this project has gotten me interested in converting a small car.

Steve
 
Yeah!.. about car... that's why i have 12 x 150W Dc-DC to charge... 8) for a 1800W future mod of my actual charger!
 
Just wanted to update my configuration. One of the reasons I wired each cell individually with the APP connectors was so I could easily change configurations. I started with 60 cells in a 15s4p configuration, but have finally settled on the same sixty cells in a 20s3p arrangement. I can still get my eight plus mile daily commute and have about 20% capacity. I notice absolutely no drop off in performance from the first mile to the last. I am actually able to accelerate up the steepest hills that really slowed me down before. Anyway, here is what the pack looks like now.
 
I am charging the above setup with three of the 100W power supplies I mentioned above. Each power supply gets 20 cells in parallel. I adjust the power supply voltage to 3.60V and plug in the cells. It takes just over two hours for all cells to be fully charged from my normal 80% discharge. That is plenty fast for me, but I could just add more power supplies if I needed a faster charge time. I pulled out one of the 20 cell groups to detail how I connect everything.twenty_cells.JPG20s1p_pack.JPG
I have two other packs just like this that I connect together in parallel for the 20S3p arrangement.
 
Finally, here is the charging operation in progress.View attachment 1Charging.JPG
Works great. I did monitor the setup several times and found that if I watched one cell, it started at about 1.2 A and maintained this through most of the charge until it drops way off after about two hours. The power supply handles this load with no problem. I don't even really need to disconnect it. I have left it plugged in over night with no adverse effects. The current seems to drop off to a very low level (< 20ma) and just stay there. I leave all my packs in the bag and simply unplug the series connections and plug all sixty cells into the three power supplies. Two hours later, they are fully charged with every cell reading 3.60V. The only other thing I have been considering is a way to terminate the charge when the current drops down but I really don't need to do it. I normally plug everything in when I get home from work and then unplug everything before bed.
 
WoW that is sick

very nice and this post ahs been here all this time.

according to your milaage i 'll need 80 cells for my commute and was planning on just make them into 2 40 pack 10s4p but this looks good.

a bit more assembly at first but then aagain if these cells are almost indistructable then I'll just do pack way for now but nice job all the same I wonder if I can just use this power supply instead of the 20 amps 3.3 modules that i got !

efreak
 
Nice bike. I had a catalog from Jamis awhile back and thought that the Boss Cruiser was perfect for a conversion. Big steel fork, single speed type crank, nice chain guard. No shifter issues. They didn't have any bikes though. Just the catalog. Speaking of which, my pant leg is always greasy. Damn chain. Also, nice job on the batteries but too many connectors for me; if used for regular use.
 
It is a very comfortable bike for commuting. I thought having so many connectors would be annoying but it only takes a minute or two to unplug or plug everything in. I also like being able to get to each cell if needed. The only problem is that you can accidently plug them in the wrong way and cause a short, not that I have done that :)
 
Hey this is an excellent post! Thanks for all the great pics. I'm going to use this approach in version 4 of my a123 packs. (see the sob story here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3951&p=59821#p59821).

Anyhow, just one question, did you make the wires comming out of the 4cell packs all the same length at six inches? I'm guessing this is the right thing to do...
 
Sorry about the late reply, I haven't been on much lately.

Anyway, I did make all the wires the same length to keep the resistance the same. I doubt it makes much difference, but my Dad had some real world experince with 12V batteries connected in parallel where batt1 connects batt2 connects batt3 connects batt4 and then the motor connects at the point between batts 2 and 3. He said batts 2 and 3 were always drained more than 1 and 4.

Steve
 
Could this power supply be used to charge cells connected in series (20s 5p)? My pack already has balancing wires, I guess these wires can somehow be used for connection to charger :?
 
I have used the bike for over a year now and the plugging and unplugging doesn't bother me, but I am sure it would be a pain to some folks. I still like the flexibility of being able to change the pack configuration. I can run 10s6p, 15s4p, 20s3p, 30s2p and it only takes a minute or two to change. However, If I were going to make a permanent configuration then I would make the packs 20s3p and add a BMS.

The best part of my setup is that I don't need any BMS. My power supplies are set to 3.65V (or any other value I want) and all cells are charged in parallel. It is not possible to overcharge the cells using this method. The only thing I would have to be careful of is overdischarging the batteries but the cycle analyst handles that for me. It has a low voltage cutuff that I set at 2.7V per cell or 54V for my 20s3p configuration. I can also set this at any value I want.

I haven't checked my cycle analyst lately but I am guessing I have over 1000 miles and probably 150 or so cycles on the packs and they perform just as they did the day I built the pack. They have never been overcharged or overdischarged and I really don't see how they ever could be using my setup, so I expect them to last for a very long time. I don't mind the plugging and unplugging since the payoff is that I never worry about damaging my cells.

Steve
 
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