Yeah, that does sound a bit on the high side for street.
Style of riding makes a huge difference, as do hills if you don't come back down them on the same battery cycle. What I find takes my usual 35 ish wh/mi to 45 wh/mi instantly is a route with stop signs. Even if you don't actually stop, you keep slowing up and looking. The other one that will do the trick is a headwind of 20 mph or more, of course.
Sam, you want precise numbers that don't really exist for most riders. But for riders up to 200 pounds, on non recumbent bikes, running 20 amp controllers, traveling 25 mph, pedaling modestly at best unless climbing a steep hill, the range seems to be somewhere from 30 wh/mi to 50 wh/mi. The route, riding style, and weather account for the huge range in the numbers.
To answer your specifc question of how does winding affect wh/mi, pretty much it doesn't. When I first got a CA, I tested all my motors with it. I rode a 4 mile circuit, all the same day, in the same weather. I never pedaled a stroke the whole way. I put on full throttle at the two stops, and then traveled at exactly 20 mph with all the motors. Testing an Aotema with a fast winding, a 9x7 9c with a medium winding, and a small 400 watt gearmotor, I found nearly identical wh/mi from all of them. Right around 31-32 wh/mi All had 20 amp controllers, and were run with the same 48v battery. I weigh about 170, and the bikes range from 70-90 pounds. Since this test involved pretty flat terrain, and few stops, bike weight did not matter much. Add a steep hill, and fast windings suck a ton of power and make it into heat.
Your variations in wh/mi are going to come from weather, and how many times you start and stop, and whether you pedal first at a stop. Not the winding. Of course, if you haul ass on the fast winding you're going to use more. Of course, if you lug that fast winding up a steep hill you will use more. And if you have a lot of stops with that fast winding you will use more. That's why I prefer slower windings for nearly all my riding. I'm not looking to crash faster when I street ride, so the slow windings are fast enough for me.
Later on, after that initial test, I looked at wh/mi with my slower 9c motors. Again, on a ride maintaining a 20 mph street cruise, wh/mi was about the same. But when looking at a ride climbing hills, or doing lots of bouncing around between 5 mph and 15 mph, the wh/mi is much lower on the slow winding motors than similar riding with a 9x7. With these slow motors on my dirt bike, I see just about 45 wh/mi max, doing hard dirt riding. It seems to matter little if I use a 72v 20 amp controller or a 48v 20 amp controller. But If I put a 72v 40 amp controller on, then I see low 50's for wh/ mi. Stands to reason, climbing short steep hills at 3000 watts is gonna cost you.
Regardng the cogging, it's enough to make you sweat, if you have a slighly uphill ride home after you run a battery down. If you can slow down in time, then you only need about 50 w of power to not only remove all resistance, but add enough assist to make pedaling a 90 pound pannier loaded bike 10 mph tolerable. If you want only a mild assist to really stretch range, ride with a 100w or so throttle setting. You should be able to go about 12-13 mph for incredible distances at that wattage. Only when you come to a big hill will you need to use as much as 300 w to climb. Climbing a big hill that slow though, a 2810 would be a better choice.
), WOT, almost no peddling, a couple of realatively short 5% grades and one 300yard 20% (some peddleing here) 2806, 36v 20a ping, 11.78miles, 8.59ah, 43.5 wh/m.
Didn't check that. The bat. was really peppy yesterday (hottest day of the year so far) top flats speed was 25.7-25.9, normally25.1-25.3. I'll look again some time and report back
