R/C Guru's ... What HK ESC for 12S do you recommend?

LI-ghtcycle

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Oregon City Oregon
As you may know, I'm building a Kepler Drive on steroids and I am going to start with a 30V set-up, but I want to leave room for more if needed in the future.

I'd like to pair a small compact ESC as possible and try to fit similar dimensions as the originally recommended one for 24V as shown here:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16550&start=285

file.php


My current set-up will be 8S (29.8V Nominal) but if possible I want the possibility to up-grade to 12S if I wanted too later (on a different set-up than a "weight weenie" of course! :wink: :lol: )

What's the best way to go as far as an ESC to match with this motor?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7870

6374-170.jpg


TURNIGY AerodriveXp SK Series
AerodriveXP SK Series motors are designed for those who want the very best in outrunner technology for their R/C plane. Typically an efficiency improvement of around 8-10% can be seen over similar classed motors. This is in part due to the following;
Stator Laminations: .2mm
Magnet Type: N45SH
Bearings: Dual oversize (Singapore)
Shaft: 10mm Hardened

Model: SK63-74 170
Kv: 170rpm/v
Turns: 9
Resistance: 50m-Ohm
Idle Current: 1.9A
Shaft: 10mm
Weight: 840g
Rated Power: 3250W
ESC: 100A+
Cell count: 6-10
Suggested Prop: 22x10~26x10
Power equivalent : 30% scale warbirds or 3D planes up to 100inch and anything requiring a 26~45cc gas engine.

*Includes mount and prop adapter accessories (not shown)
 
For ebike use, I can't recomend ANY of them. :(

Castle creations HV-160 is your best shot at an RC ESC working for a useful amount of time before going POOF!
 
liveforphysics said:
For ebike use, I can't recomend ANY of them. :(

Castle creations HV-160 is your best shot at an RC ESC working for a useful amount of time before going POOF!

Where can I buy one, and how much are they? I don't mind paying for quality, I'd rather buy once than go cheap for the same money 10X in the long run, and if it's over-built, even better. This will be a road bike "weight weenie" build, so maybe I can get away with less for that?

I see the Castle creations HV-160 listed at $272 a few places, is that about the best price I will find?

Thanks! :D
 
I use that motor with their cheapest 100A controller, the 2-6s hobbyking brand one, and it hasn't cut out, fried, or died yet, and I've run it fairly hard sometimes. Its in a box under my scooter deck. The only thing I had to do was un-stick the old heatsink and apply some thermal grease and zip-tie on a larger heatsink (no name, no frills, just aluminum fins). It's really ghetto. I believe if you cool the HobbyKing ESC's well they will do fine, of course they will still have the sync issues of any cheap RC controller.
 
fizzit said:
I use that motor with their cheapest 100A controller, the 2-6s hobbyking brand one, and it hasn't cut out, fried, or died yet, and I've run it fairly hard sometimes. Its in a box under my scooter deck. The only thing I had to do was un-stick the old heatsink and apply some thermal grease and zip-tie on a larger heatsink (no name, no frills, just aluminum fins). It's really ghetto. I believe if you cool the HobbyKing ESC's well they will do fine, of course they will still have the sync issues of any cheap RC controller.

That sounds very interesting, so are you saying your using this one (or something very similar):

file.php


To run a 8S Lipo battery or?

Also, if you will forgive my ignorance on all things R/C, when you talk about sync issues, does that mean the motor cuts out a lot?

Also, when you say "fairly hard" do you mean just hammering the throttle or jumping curbs?

Thanks!
 
I have rode my scooter up some large hills (there's a decent sized one on my way to work), and when my friends ride it, they just hammer on the throttle and it keeps on chugging. I am only running at 6S with this controller:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7341&Product_Name=Hobbyking_SS_Series_90-100A_ESC

By sync loss I mean, when starting from a stop, if you do not kick off and ease into the throttle, the motor will emit a screeching noise and you will have to release the throttle and start again, because the controller loses track of where the motor is in it's electromagnetic cycle and isn't able to rotate it. I'm sure in these forums there is a much better explanation of what actually goes on with the motor and controller during this than I can give :)
 
If your using it in a Kepler style friction drive then you will likely be pedalling to start then engage the drive when upto speed? If so this speed controller should do as well as any imo

KiM
 
fizzit said:
I have rode my scooter up some large hills (there's a decent sized one on my way to work), and when my friends ride it, they just hammer on the throttle and it keeps on chugging. I am only running at 6S with this controller:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7341&Product_Name=Hobbyking_SS_Series_90-100A_ESC

By sync loss I mean, when starting from a stop, if you do not kick off and ease into the throttle, the motor will emit a screeching noise and you will have to release the throttle and start again, because the controller loses track of where the motor is in it's electromagnetic cycle and isn't able to rotate it. I'm sure in these forums there is a much better explanation of what actually goes on with the motor and controller during this than I can give :)

That's a perfectly good explanation to me! And yes AJ, I would pedal first, but wouldn't I be smarter to use a ESC that is at least rated for 8S? Mainly since I want to buy one ESC that can do both 8 and 12 incase I decide to go really nutz later!? :twisted: :mrgreen: :lol:
 
LI-ghtcycle said:
Under what conditions did you use the ESC? Off-road? And how much voltage, and what settings did you use? Sorry for all the Q's I'm totally new to timing motors with ESC's and such. :oops:

Not really off road more like a bit of cycle path and fields. I ran it on 12s, sorry I cant remember what settings I finally used ( I tried so many ). I think like AJ have said as long as the bike is moving before you wind on the throt any esc would do the job. I also played around with the smaller 100A esc's 22.2v max ( something like $20 delivered from ebay ) these also worked well as long as the bike was moving before winding on the power.
 
Great News! Thanks for all the info!

I'll have to start searching Ebay for some cheap ones that I can experiment with! :twisted:
 
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