Recommendations for Battery for MXUS 3KW & Adaptto Midi-E

Dumsterdave

100 W
Joined
May 9, 2016
Messages
273
Location
copenhagen, Denmark
I figure ill get a lot of shit about this post and know that people will tell me to stay away from lipo if i dont know how to handle them, but Ill throw it out there anyways. I am looking to build a 72v battery... perferably something with around 40Ah. Ill be running an mxus 3000 v3 and adaptto midi with 19" moto tyres on a qulbix 140. I am more interested in torque than top end speed.

What would by an ideal configuration? Including batteries, cables, connectors, charger etc.. Under $1000 preferred, but i can go to about $1500 if necessary.

I am debating on whether to explore building an 18650 pack or saving some money and going lipo.
 
Dumsterdave said:
I figure ill get a lot of shit about this post and know that people will tell me to stay away from lipo if i dont know how to handle them, but Ill throw it out there anyways. I am looking to build a 72v battery... perferably something with around 40Ah. Ill be running an mxus 3000 v3 and adaptto midi with 19" moto tyres on a qulbix 140. I am more interested in torque than top end speed.

What would by an ideal configuration? Including batteries, cables, connectors, charger etc.. Under $1000 preferred, but i can go to about $1500 if necessary.

I am debating on whether to explore building an 18650 pack or saving some money and going lipo.

What total weight do you expect? <100lbs?
I want to compare with the heavier LTO chemistry the I'm playing with. 72v 40ah.
 
Wow, just looked up a 40ah 96v from another thread. Only 70lb!
Do they really perform to specs?
 
The perfect set-up is to use 4S LiPo packs, in some quantity in Parallel. Build it to 16S or 20S, depending on what top speed you want.

The 4S-16Ah Multistar packs make a good choice, and are very reasonable priced. a 2P configuration (32Ah) can output 130A without too much voltage sag. 3P would be even better, but may not fit in your frame.

I built a 20S-32Ah pack with them (5S2P with the 4S-16Ah packs) here (Skip to 10:30 for the battery stuff):
[youtube]Ec1fGMMkXJQ[/youtube]

Here is the Hobbyking Link for the 4S-16Ah packs:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-4s-16000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html
 
I know there are a bunch of people on these forums that successfully have used lipo like multistars for their builds.
Some even for a lot of cycles over time.

Personally I have not been as lucky with the hobbyking lipos in general. Dud cells on arrival and cells dying early and suddenly for no good reason.
These experiences are from before the multistar days tho, but I have lost all trust in HK lipos. I use those for rc planes and 18650s for bike batteries.
 
Given the amps you want, and the price,, you are pretty much looking at lipo.

As always,, store it and charge it in a place you would build a fire. I'm not saying lipo will burn,, just that any battery type that big makes a big fire if it does burn. Naked pouch batteries like lipo have the additional risk of burning, if they get dinged, or you run a really puffed cell.

As for Hobby King,, my luck has been ok lately. I don't know about multistars,, I have bought turnigy and zippy in 20c and 30c versions. I'd recommend turnigy, in the higher 30c or better configuration. Those will come with big fat wire, and high current 5 mm connectors. You can start with as little as 10 ah of that for 50 amps of pull, then add more 10 ah at a time till you have a tolerable level of sag under load.

As for how to connect up,, well there are a shitload of ways to do it, all right. That's the beauty of lipos. When building bigger packs, I liked to test packs, then when they are proven ok after a few cycles, then parallel packs to make 10 ah blocks out of paired packs, whatever type they may be.

Clip both packs discharge wires, then connect to one set of the large bullets. I make the connection with a thing called a crimp sleeve. I got those in the wiring section of a builders supply. Very easy to crimp, resulting in a fairly neat connection for 10 ah. Half the connectors helps with larger assemblies of lipo.

Then to get to pack voltage, simply string in series for a 10 ah, whatever voltage, pack. Nice neat wiring. I personally do not parallel at the balance taps. I just use a 1s charger to bring up low cells individually when I balance a big pack. Check them individually often, with a cellog.

To make larger than 10 ah,, I then string full voltage packs in parallel,, to do that make an octopus connector with big fat wire, like 10 g or larger. One end to the controller, then for 40 ah, four sets of connectors on the other end. Your packs can then be spread out around the vehicle as needed, instead of trying to mount a gigantic 72v 40 ah brick. Each 72v 10 ah section will be about small shoe box size, and weigh about 12 pounds.


So,, how do you monitor the voltage of that many cells, for knowing when to stop? You don't. You figure out which pack in your entire assembly has the lowest capacity.

Then you put one of those cheap lv alarms on that pack. Only for a ride you know will flirt with lvc,, not permanent. When that weak pack is empty, the whole pack is done.
 
Back
Top