I have the UKS6 display and from the page attached from the manual you can see the "advanced" settings I have. The only option regarding current is A4. On my bike the factory setting is 80. That is what I said before that I tried 100 and even 120 for a while and nothing really changed. I believe A4 has to do with phase current. There is nothing else that refers to battery current limit as far as I can tell.
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Stealth Bomber clone disappointment
- Thread starter AndrewZ
- Start date
Based on your voltage sag i'd say this battery cannot take much more power.
If you are hitting 115km/h unloaded then this is too fast of a winding for the battery included with it, this motor requires enormous amps and your voltage sag indicates you may have ~2C rated cells, thus it cannot feed the motor what it's asking for to produce a lot of torque in the low to mid RPM range.
If you would accept a slower top speed, you could get a motor with a slower winding and the limited amps your battery can output would go further.
This controller does not look really tuneable. If one of the settings correlates to 120A, but can't go higher, the controller is not capable of feeding enough power. A more appropriate phase amps for a big motor with low turn count like this is 200A+, and battery current more like 80A or more
If you are hitting 115km/h unloaded then this is too fast of a winding for the battery included with it, this motor requires enormous amps and your voltage sag indicates you may have ~2C rated cells, thus it cannot feed the motor what it's asking for to produce a lot of torque in the low to mid RPM range.
If you would accept a slower top speed, you could get a motor with a slower winding and the limited amps your battery can output would go further.
This controller does not look really tuneable. If one of the settings correlates to 120A, but can't go higher, the controller is not capable of feeding enough power. A more appropriate phase amps for a big motor with low turn count like this is 200A+, and battery current more like 80A or more
I just wanted to see if there is a way to make the current hardware work.
Also, if I end up keeping the bike what would be the first upgrade?
Controller? Or there's no point unless I upgrade the battery too?
A4 is battery current. Usually only programmable controllers have the option to set phase current.
The USK6 display is compatible with some JN controllers and a couple Sabvoton controllers, but not interchangeable. Setting phase current for Sabvoton controllers requires connecting to the controller via PC or bluetooth app.
You will probably end up replacing all the parts..
- this motor is the wrong winding and who knows what brand it is or the quality.
- the controller is not truly programmable and may or may not work with another motor.
- i'm betting this battery is very low quality and such batteries have a much higher chance of spontaneous explosion, versus one made properly with brand name cells. I am only okay with parking this in a detatched garage, or in an area where a spontaneous fire would not destroy a lot of property. The less pressing problem is you are seeing ~5v of voltage drop at a relatively low power output, so we can say the battery kinda sucks too.
I would send this back and build it right if you can.
- this motor is the wrong winding and who knows what brand it is or the quality.
- the controller is not truly programmable and may or may not work with another motor.
- i'm betting this battery is very low quality and such batteries have a much higher chance of spontaneous explosion, versus one made properly with brand name cells. I am only okay with parking this in a detatched garage, or in an area where a spontaneous fire would not destroy a lot of property. The less pressing problem is you are seeing ~5v of voltage drop at a relatively low power output, so we can say the battery kinda sucks too.
I would send this back and build it right if you can.
If they offer a partial refund, don't accept less than $2k. If you shop around, that should get you a good battery and motor, and possibly the controller.
I may be jumping ahead here a little bit but since you have all been helpful and insightful you might be able to help me with my plan for the build. If I end up keeping it for a refund I'll order these parts and assemble it myself or if I send it back I'll order it to my specs by a more reputable tried and tested ali seller I guess?
Anyway, I'm looking to have a commuter stealth bomber (not offroad) with street tires.
It would have to be able accelerate up hills with ease with my weight (90kg). I live in a hilly area. My commute isn't long like 20km back and forth but let's say a range of 50km minimum to be safe.
The dropout on this bomber frame is 200mm so I was thinking QS273 maybe 4T from what I've read in order to be able to reach speeds of 100k/h+?
The battery would have to be 72v 40ah minimum with a BMS capable of 300 phase amps I guess?
I am really new to this.
The controller I guess a Sabvoton 72200 or even 72150?
I want the whole build to be idiot proof and as easy to assemble with my skills as possible. Like I said I am new around e bikes but I can do wire soldering and have worked on ICE cars. Not pulling engines out, simpler stuff.
If any of you have any recommendations of Europe based sellers that would be a plus.
Anyway, I'm looking to have a commuter stealth bomber (not offroad) with street tires.
It would have to be able accelerate up hills with ease with my weight (90kg). I live in a hilly area. My commute isn't long like 20km back and forth but let's say a range of 50km minimum to be safe.
The dropout on this bomber frame is 200mm so I was thinking QS273 maybe 4T from what I've read in order to be able to reach speeds of 100k/h+?
The battery would have to be 72v 40ah minimum with a BMS capable of 300 phase amps I guess?
I am really new to this.
The controller I guess a Sabvoton 72200 or even 72150?
I want the whole build to be idiot proof and as easy to assemble with my skills as possible. Like I said I am new around e bikes but I can do wire soldering and have worked on ICE cars. Not pulling engines out, simpler stuff.
If any of you have any recommendations of Europe based sellers that would be a plus.
If you are a noob, then you'd better get some commitment for hand holding through the process, from the forum, or preferably someone local, before getting too far into it. It will be a lot of typing otherwise. Converting a premade bike is by far the ugliest route to go. If you're going to buy, then buy. If you're going to build, start from scratch. I'd fight for the refund and then decide.
I hear ya friend! It's just it seems pretty straight forward as long as the right hardware is selected? I mean it's a stealth bomber frame with 200mm dropout. I can measure how much space I have for a battery and if I can get a QS273 with a controller preprogrammed for it and lights, throttle etc I can just install it. Is it that straight forward or I am that naive?
Based on my experiences, ali*.* vendors are unreliable in that you can't rely on them over time to stay reputable (in the good way) or that an untested one might possibly be great. Too easy for them to change without suffering consequences.
Have to readjust your expectations.
After reading your complaints, I would have immediately filed for full refund (and hope for a pleasant refund experience). If that many components were easily found to be substandard, what other deficiencies are hiding that you have not discovered yet?
I did immediately file for a full refund. I have uploaded photos and videos and chat screenshots of what I was promised vs what I received. Just waiting to see what Alibaba decides. If it decides against my I'm opening a paypal case, if that fails I'm going for a chargeback. I'll give it everything I've got. But with what you said which of course you are also correct, it might make more sense (if I get the full refund and keep it) to build it right with the components I want.
Just be aware that others here have reported sometime ali*.* tactics delaying and stringing things along until the return period deadline has passed.
I just received the bike on Tuesday and applied for a refund on the same day but definitely if I see them delaying I'll go ahead with paypal. Thanks
A little update here to inform people of my troubles. Alibaba re-opened the evidence window for another week probably taking into account the Chinese New Year during which nobody is working. I took this as an opportunity to open the case on Paypal. I did attach every piece of evidence on paypal too and waiting for them. In the meantime, would anyone want to chime in and tell me if this is a good deal or not? Laufradsatz 24Zoll Qs205 Motor 72V StealthBomber,Surron, Fatbike
supposedly a QS205 with front and rear wheels, don't know winding and can't tell from the serial number.
supposedly a QS205 with front and rear wheels, don't know winding and can't tell from the serial number.
Santacruz
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I built my own clone style some years back. Using QS273 and a Sabvoton controller.
Looking at your pictures I am not sure that is a 273 motor, certainly not a QS one.
As for the controller. I doubt there is (even when I bought mine) a real Sabvoton out there, just clones.
But I bought mine from QS Motors which I guess is the better clone of them all. Now, in the "Sabvoton" line up, you have a 150a 72v, a 200a 72v and a 120a 96v (which is what I use). I have never seen a 180a anywhere, so I am suspicious as to what equipment is on your bike.
Looking at your pictures I am not sure that is a 273 motor, certainly not a QS one.
As for the controller. I doubt there is (even when I bought mine) a real Sabvoton out there, just clones.
But I bought mine from QS Motors which I guess is the better clone of them all. Now, in the "Sabvoton" line up, you have a 150a 72v, a 200a 72v and a 120a 96v (which is what I use). I have never seen a 180a anywhere, so I am suspicious as to what equipment is on your bike.
Thanks for the info! You are correct regarding the Sabvoton controller. There is no 180. The equipment on this bike is trash that's why performance is so poor... Anyway, I will most likely be replacing all of the parts on this bike when I get the refund. Do you have a build thread somewhere for yours?
Fast forward a couple of months later and this is where we're at.
I filed for a chargeback and got my money back.
With that cash I got a QS273 3.5T, a 72v40ah battery with a 150a BMS and a sabvoton 72200 from Changzhou the Chun.
The seller did f**** up a little bit. The QS was shipped with no freewheel compatible motor cover. I hope I can change the motor cover to one with a freewheel for "legal" purposes here in Europe.
Now I put everything on the bike and tried some test bench runs.
I tried to increase phase amps from the app but it won't let me go past 250a.
Flux weakening is enabled and at 50a.
The motor will spin to 78km/h and about 650ish rpms.
I feel that this is limited? Attaching MQCON settings here too.
I did run the hall test and it was okay and I also changed the boost/3speed to "boost". The bike accelerates violently and wants to come off the stand but feels like it's top speed limited. There is no 3 speed switch on the wiring that I've seen. There's only a pair of blue wires labeled "speed limit" that have male and female connectors on them and if connected the bike will go about 50rpms more and 81km/h instead of 78km/h.
I filed for a chargeback and got my money back.
With that cash I got a QS273 3.5T, a 72v40ah battery with a 150a BMS and a sabvoton 72200 from Changzhou the Chun.
The seller did f**** up a little bit. The QS was shipped with no freewheel compatible motor cover. I hope I can change the motor cover to one with a freewheel for "legal" purposes here in Europe.
Now I put everything on the bike and tried some test bench runs.
I tried to increase phase amps from the app but it won't let me go past 250a.
Flux weakening is enabled and at 50a.
The motor will spin to 78km/h and about 650ish rpms.
I feel that this is limited? Attaching MQCON settings here too.
I did run the hall test and it was okay and I also changed the boost/3speed to "boost". The bike accelerates violently and wants to come off the stand but feels like it's top speed limited. There is no 3 speed switch on the wiring that I've seen. There's only a pair of blue wires labeled "speed limit" that have male and female connectors on them and if connected the bike will go about 50rpms more and 81km/h instead of 78km/h.
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