Taking of the nickel strips before making connections

[Cyclomania]

So I have all this nickelstrip strapped onto my battery cells that I ordered. Which means I kind of made a mistake and a blunder.

Because I already have this kind of connection board as shown below.(it came with the battery box)

So I should be able to connect without the already attached nickel strips.

In short, I don't need the nickel strips on the cells and they are actually in the way here.

Now, how can I solve this? Can I just rip of the nickel strips from the cells somehow? Perhaps use them in the future or so. And then connect the cells without them as shown below.

 

[docw009]

You can snip the ends off with a suitable side cutting pliers. Should be able to weld right over the nickel.

Pulling them off is possible too. Depends on thickness and how well they are welded. You can always pull off two of them and assess if there is any damage. For thin nickel. there will be a spot of niclel left that can be cleaned up. . Thick nickel often pulls a dent in the can when ripped off, and that's best avoided.

Suggest that you not dremel or file the cells to get rid of the nickel residue from ripping off the nickel. That will remove the nickel plating on the cells, expose the steel casing, and cause rusting in wet conditions.

.

 

[Cyclomania]

You can snip the ends off with a suitable side cutting pliers. Should be able to weld right over the nickel.

Pulling them off is possible too. Depends on thickness and how well they are welded. You can always pull off two of them and assess if there is any damage. For thin nickel. there will be a spot of niclel left that can be cleaned up. . Thick nickel often pulls a dent in the can when ripped off, and that's best avoided.

Suggest that you not dremel or file the cells to get rid of the nickel residue from ripping off the nickel. That will remove the nickel plating on the cells, expose the steel casing, and cause rusting in wet conditions.

.

Ah okay.

I will try to pull/rip of one. And assess the damage. Then post a picture here.

This will not cause anything to burn or anything right? Or should I do this with a mask on and gloves as a precaution perhaps? If it explodes or something?

This might be a stupid question. But it is the first battery I am building(although I have e built bikes before) so I am trying to be very cautious during the entire journey here.

The other alternative you mention, with the side cutting pliers, involves keeping a bit of the nickel at the centre of the cell correct? That should be fine as well right? Because it will lead current the same way as without it I guess? Just shorten it?

 

[docw009]

In the packs I have built, I have put nickel over bigger tabs than that and it spot welds OK, as long as it's flat, Just cut it at the edge with scissors.

In an extreme case. the nickel is so thick it pulls dents in the can when rolled off.

 

[Cyclomania]

In the packs I have built, I have put nickel over bigger tabs than that and it spot welds OK, as long as it's flat, Just cut it at the edge with scissors.

In an extreme case. the nickel is so thick it pulls dents in the can when rolled off.

Ah ok. And that might lead to fire or something perhaps?

So best is to cut off the parts that is sticking out to the side as much as possible from the top of the cell? To make that nickel strip as square and flat on top of the cell as possible, correct? That is how you mean right?

 

[Cyclomania]

If I were to try to pull off the nickel-bites, would it be best to do that, when they have been discharged of some voltage first I guess right?

Also, if trying to cut these off with side cutting pliers could that set off something unforseen? Or is this probably quite unharmful? Do I need to use gloves when doing that or something? I am going for my first pack so I dont have clue on everything yet.

 

[From-A-To-B]

If I were to try to pull off the nickel-bites, would it be best to do that, when they have been discharged of some voltage first I guess right?

Also, if trying to cut these off with side cutting pliers could that set off something unforseen? Or is this probably quite unharmful? Do I need to use gloves when doing that or something? I am going for my first pack so I dont have clue on everything yet.

If possible, just don't manipulate the strips / cells when the cells are fully charged. Less risk if something does go wrong. Work gloves are helpful if you're ripping off nickel strip - I've cut myself several times with the sharp edges.

If you can afford it, I almost want to recommend that you put down these cells in the first place and build with quality cells. You're going to put a lot of work into this battery, and it's almost a shame to dump many hours into a foundation of cheap cells.

$266 will get you a pile of Samsung 35E's right now. (I'm unsure of where you are in the world.) Something to consider. Best of luck!

Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A Battery

Get reliable power with the Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A Battery. Ideal for E-bikes and high capacity packs. Buy now!

www.18650batterystore.com

 

[Cyclomania]

Work gloves are helpful if you're ripping off nickel strip - I've cut myself several times with the sharp edges.

What type of gloves do you use? Yea it migt be some work. But fun to see when it is finished.

 

[From-A-To-B]

Whatever gloves I have laying around -- the cheap, thin cotton gloves with rubberized fingers provide a little bit of protection while allowing for some dexterity.

 

[999zip999]

Take one cell rip off the tab on the negative then rip off the tab on the positive inspect the positive and the negative for it hopefully wouldn't rip apart the cell we don't care about the tab. It's a lot of work I don't know how much you paid for those cells but it'd be easier to start over and use those cells some other way.
I forgot how big is your pack going to be 52 bolt bolts so 14 and how many parallel ?

 

[999zip999]

Ok now don't destroy that shrink wrap at the top of the Ring of the negative part of the cell yes the place right next to the tit now if you take a piece of metal from that tit and touch the case where you tore the shrink wrap you would have fire.

 

[999zip999]

Don't strike the match.
The 80 w soldering iron that you must use can easily overheat that tab and it only has a piece of plastic protecting the negative ring at the top of the cell that's where the danger happens Plus on the negative side of the cell if you use solder that's where you can overheat the cell not on the positive side but on the negative side you can also use a wet sponge as soon as you get it soldered real fast but I wouldn't solder anymore in my life not on batteries.

 

[999zip999]

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This is the last batch of 30Q cells for now. Just a few of the 80-90% capacity cells remaining. This is for Samsung INR18650-30Q cells that are professionally tested and all sitting at 3.6v ready to be built into packs. These were overstock and never used. Specs are in the 2nd photo. These are...

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Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mah 20a TESTED

We tested 1000 of these cells and they all test between 97-101% on our professional testing cabinets. They are overstock from a large battery project. They have never been spot welded. This is one of the best 18650 power cells on the market. Perfect for ebikes and at this price they are a great...

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Here's some great finds I would get the Samsung 25r as the other one has a loss capacity which means it's on its way out.
The sales you have would be good as replacement cells for a drill or any tool and some flashlights
As far as I'm concerned they're just replacement cells for something that already exist.

 

[Cyclomania]

You can snip the ends off with a suitable side cutting pliers. Should be able to weld right over the nickel.

Pulling them off is possible too. Depends on thickness and how well they are welded. You can always pull off two of them and assess if there is any damage. For thin nickel. there will be a spot of niclel left that can be cleaned up. . Thick nickel often pulls a dent in the can when ripped off, and that's best avoided.

Suggest that you not dremel or file the cells to get rid of the nickel residue from ripping off the nickel. That will remove the nickel plating on the cells, expose the steel casing, and cause rusting in wet conditions.

.

Is it something like this you had in mind when getting them off perhaps?

Pulling then off but not ripping them off might be better, right?

 

[batteryGOLD]

So I have all this nickelstrip strapped onto my battery cells that I ordered. Which means I kind of made a mistake and a blunder.

Too late! you already got low capacity /high IR cells from lit*kala, or consider U a lucky person.
I've got some of those with 40mohm, more than twice rated ir and capacity at less than half..

at least do a discharge test capacity at one random HG2 cell, but discharge at high current, if U discharge at just at 1A, it seems normal cell.. but if you discharge at 10A, you see that is fake cell.

statistics/probability, if you test one random HG2 from a 20 cells pack , and cell is half capacity, would you consider all the other x19 HG2 cells from that pack are also low cap? or is just one faulty cell from 20 units? means only one faulty and the other 19 are ok?
or maybe you got lucky at your order and all HG2 cells are genuine/new

 

[batteryGOLD]

it could be a good discuss topic to Battery Doctor youtuber
ordering 10 different model cells from lit*kala, in packs of 10 cells each one, means 100cells. test subjects..

to speed up process, just test one random cell from each 10units box. x10 boxes of each 18650 model.

dischargin @10A

how many percentage of low cap cells from total 100 cells?
anyone post results here: -->

PS: taking off tha nickels at batteries sometimes deal w shorts and sparks & incandescent nickels from silver to orange color.. but U could get used to.. use safety protections at hands and eyes

 

[Cyclomania]

PS: taking off tha nickels at batteries sometimes deal w shorts and sparks & incandescent nickels from silver to orange color.. but U could get used to.. use safety protections at hands and eyes

What safety protection do you usually use? A mask of some sort?

 

[Cyclomania]

In the packs I have built, I have put nickel over bigger tabs than that and it spot welds OK, as long as it's flat, Just cut it at the edge with scissors.

In an extreme case. the nickel is so thick it pulls dents in the can when rolled off.

That could lead to a fire or explosion perhaps?
So better to cut them off at the outer ends perhaps?

 

[Cyclomania]

Whatever gloves I have laying around -- the cheap, thin cotton gloves with rubberized fingers provide a little bit of protection while allowing for some dexterity.

Would you say this is unsafe to do if they are not discharged to a low voltage? How low voltage would you go down to when doing something like this?

 

[Cyclomania]

Take one cell rip off the tab on the negative then rip off the tab on the positive inspect the positive and the negative for it hopefully wouldn't rip apart the cell we don't care about the tab. It's a lot of work I don't know how much you paid for those cells but it'd be easier to start over and use those cells some other way.
I forgot how big is your pack going to be 52 bolt bolts so 14 and how many parallel ?

Yeah 14s. I figure this first battery will be the hardest before I understand exactly what I am doing. But I am going forward very slowly right now so I don’t frock anything up regarding the safety.
So all tips on that is well welcomed.

I want to finish this battery with the cells I have. I realise they are not very good but not
total shit either. A lot of happy customers from that page it seems.

 

[Cyclomania]

Don't strike the match.
The 80 w soldering iron that you must use can easily overheat that tab and it only has a piece of plastic protecting the negative ring at the top of the cell that's where the danger happens Plus on the negative side of the cell if you use solder that's where you can overheat the cell not on the positive side but on the negative side you can also use a wet sponge as soon as you get it soldered real fast but I wouldn't solder anymore in my life not on batteries.

I am thinking I will solder the stuff before I attach it to the battery. I think that was how Inanek did it. That makes a lot of sense. I think he wrote he soldered apart from the battery and then attached everything to the battery if I am not mistaken.

 

[Cyclomania]

Don't strike the match.
The 80 w soldering iron that you must use

Does it have to be 80w? And if so why exactly 80watt? Or do you mean everything from 80 and over?

 

[99t4]

Does it have to be 80w? And if so why exactly 80watt? Or do you mean everything from 80 and over?

What is most important is a thick tip. More thermal mass there means it retains the necessary heat there when contacting the larger wires. Many here have had good results with the red-handled Weller iron with the thick chisel tip.

Weller Soldering Iron - 80 Watt - 3/8" Chisel Tip

Educational Supplier of Technology Education, Industrial Arts, Vocational Education - Tools, Furniture, Equipment and Supplies.

paxtonpatterson.shop

 

[From-A-To-B]

Would you say this is unsafe to do if they are not discharged to a low voltage? How low voltage would you go down to when doing something like this?

The gloves are for protecting my fingers from cuts while pulling off nickel strip. It has nothing to do with voltage.

I build batteries at storage voltage, they typically arrive at 3.4-3.7V from the manufacturer.

 

[Cyclomania]

What is most important is a thick tip. More thermal mass there means it retains the necessary heat there when contacting the larger wires. Many here have had good results with the red-handled Weller iron with the thick chisel tip.

Weller Soldering Iron - 80 Watt - 3/8" Chisel Tip

Educational Supplier of Technology Education, Industrial Arts, Vocational Education - Tools, Furniture, Equipment and Supplies.

paxtonpatterson.shop

I have the Weller 80w. Because I bought it when(I think it was Amberwolf ?) it was recommended in another thread. It looks like the picture: