Urethane protection on Grayborg motor

esoria

100 W
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
149
Hallo boys i want to share the Urethane isolation treatment on my Greyborg motor, i use this treatment on my previous motor like 5304, and in 2 year of daily commute in the rain, sun, ecc...
No problem, the water come inside of the motor, but can't create oxydation :)
 

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In addition to rust/waterproofing, does that also help with minimising heat damage to the windings? Can you give more info on the process and purpose of it?
 
The protection is only for Rust-oxydation, not for heat...
Thi is Urethane insulation, dielectric, very very tought against scratch and strong above 250C,
with this system you can run the motor under water for many years :)
My 5304, with big holes in the cover run under water for years, and no oxydation!
 
Care to post the type/brand of urethane you used?
 
Very nice.

If this works over a long period of time it will go a long way towards turning hub motors into proper mainstream consumer products. (If the problem with water ingress is anything like what Justin claims.)
 
http://crcind.com.au/red-urethane

This is similar to my spray, in italy have different name, but is Urethane from CRC brand...
In the manual you can see max temp 250F, but i personally tested above 250C without problem...
Is very very tought, and is not simple to scratch
 
What i wonder is if this negatively effects heat dissipation... since you sorta have a blanket over the motor now.
 
with my previous motor i don't have more temp after Urethane, i always look temp with laser gun, and no difference :)
The varnish is i think only few micron and can't create difference in temperature
 
very smart. Man , i like that... This is the smartest mod that is not a waist of money like many other mods that eventually dont do anything except empty your pockets.. !
 
With 10$ of Urethane, and some vent hole, you have a totally waterproof motor, and more fresh motor under high power output! :)
 
is urethane=ethylcarbamate?

Studies with rats, mice, and hamsters has shown that ethyl carbamate will cause cancer when it is administered orally, injected, or applied to the skin, but no adequate studies of cancer in humans caused by ethyl carbamate has been reported due to the ethical considerations of such studies.[13] However, in 2007, the International Agency for Research on Cancer raised ethyl carbamate to a Group 2A carcinogen that is "probably carcinogenic to humans," one level below fully carcinogenic to humans. IARC has stated that ethyl carbamate can be “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen based on sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in experimental animals.”[14] In 2006, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario in Canada rejected imported cases of sherry due to excessive levels of ethyl carbamate.
 
spkpn said:
is urethane=ethylcarbamate?

Studies with rats, mice, and hamsters has shown that ethyl carbamate will cause cancer when it is administered orally, injected, or applied to the skin, but no adequate studies of cancer in humans caused by ethyl carbamate has been reported due to the ethical considerations of such studies.[13] However, in 2007, the International Agency for Research on Cancer raised ethyl carbamate to a Group 2A carcinogen that is "probably carcinogenic to humans," one level below fully carcinogenic to humans. IARC has stated that ethyl carbamate can be “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen based on sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in experimental animals.”[14] In 2006, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario in Canada rejected imported cases of sherry due to excessive levels of ethyl carbamate.

Despite its common name, it is not a component of polyurethanes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_carbamate
 
http://it.rs-online.com/mobile/p/vernici-di-protezione/0831141/
Datasheet

No toxic for human :)
Toxic like normal varnish
 
It work well with the X5.. Last year, I applied this special motor purpose varnish in all my motor and never had any problem after!


This big size format cost only 7$ !! and i used like 1/3 for all my 3 X5

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24830&hilit=varnish

file.php


file.php


Doc
 
Thats Why they call you the Doc. Youve done everything, years before anyone else!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

That does look like a great mod, i will be looking into getting that for my "racing setup" :mrgreen:
 
Good work Doc ;)
I have a question for you....
I see the varnish grab very very well on the stator, or in any rugged metal, but is more difficult for varnish grab to the magnets, because magnets is very very smooth like glass
You do something special on magnets? Scratch with sand paper? Or apply varnish and stop? :)
 
esoria said:
Good work Doc ;)
I have a question for you....
I see the varnish grab very very well on the stator, or in any rugged metal, but is more difficult for varnish grab to the magnets, because magnets is very very smooth like glass
You do something special on magnets? Scratch with sand paper? Or apply varnish and stop? :)


I just cleaned rust and dust of rust around the magnets and fine cleaned everything with acetone.

to remove dust and particules, scotch tape or duck tape is working really well!


if you want to bake the varnish on teh magnet rotor, take care to not go over 60-70 celsius in the oven otherwise you will risk of reducing the magnet field intensity!!
Doc
 
yes, usually i prepare in the oven at 50-60C maximum, but varnish on the magnet, don't grab well, not like normal metal...
But ok, if you don't scratch no problem
 
esoria said:
yes, usually i prepare in the oven at 50-60C maximum, but varnish on the magnet, don't grab well, not like normal metal...
But ok, if you don't scratch no problem


By experience, if you want the paint or varnish to resist scratch, you must wait couples of weeks before the curing time is totally done. than it will like an email
if you try scratching the varnish after two days or a week, you will be able to remive it.. but after few weeks, it's like an email. :wink:

This is also very important to not apply too thick coat.. otherwise it will take months to fully dry.

Doc
 
Thanks Doc ;)
I try to cure for more week before use my motor, now is too much cold here for go in Bycicle :D
 
Hi folks.

I bought this stuff recently.

DSCN5065.jpg
DSCN5066.jpg


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTOR-INSULATING-VARNISH-100ml-COIL-VARNISH-/180843619850?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2a1b1ea60a#ht_2521wt_1270


It is described as follows:

Ideal for electric motor windings, transformer coils, tesla coils, solonoid coils and almost any coil winding application that requires insulating, bonding & sealing. This varnish can also be used as an anti-tracking coat on printed circuit boards and components. Can be applied to windings using a small paint brush or components can be dipped.

General Description…
A reliable & convenient air-drying varnish designed for the electrical industry. Anti-tracking varnish provides a tough, impervious, insulating seal in difficult environments. The system dries rapidly in thin film to give very effective sealing off of electrical leakage paths together with excellent noise reduction characteristics. The cured product conforms to BS 5629 type 1.1 (IEC 464), has excellent resistance to transformer oils and moisture, and is suitable for use in Class B and F insulating systems. A low hazard fungicide is included in the varnished enamels, which gives a 0 rating (no growth) fungal resistance when tested to BS 3900 PTG6.

Specifications…
Drying Time Touch Dry In 15 Minutes
Hard Dry In 60 Minutes
Full Cure In 24 Hour
Method Brush, Dip or Spray
Breakdown Voltage (20°C) 1200v/m
l

might be worth a try, I can't seem to get the spray-on stuff in the UK/Ireland.
 
esoria said:
yes, usually i prepare in the oven at 50-60C maximum, but varnish on the magnet, don't grab well, not like normal metal...
But ok, if you don't scratch no problem

Yes I have the same problem.
So I sanded the magnets or re painted with normal gray primer.

I didn't like red urethane on the rotor, so removed all painted area :lol:

Normal gray primer is just fine it will hold until 110 celcius.
 
If looking to clean up an already rusty rotor, how should the laminations be prepared? I'm wondering if sanding could potentially cause them to short to one another?
 
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