What does MOZ in a controller stand for

[dirtbiketoebike]

I have a 35 amp controller that states has 18 MOZ tubes in it. German quality...made in China. I see 18 things inside the controller of the same part number ,so I'm thinking that's what they are referring to. Simialiar to FET? The more MOZ the higher the amp,voltage,watts of the controller? Loff s
Little off subject ..was wondering because they stated up to 72v but the sales person and a others talked me into not doing 72v because the motor may fail and to run less voltage like 48v. I would like to be closer to 60v for my 1500w motor. What do you think? Still too much voltage?
What does MOZ mean?
Thanks!

 

[wesnewell]

Probably the Chinese guy didn't know how to spell mosfet, so he used moz. Next the guy that told you to run 48V on a 72V 1500W controller is probably just ignorant, as most 72V controllers will have an lvc of 62V, so a 48V battery won't even work with it. Since you got it open, what's the voltage on the large caps? Should be 100V. And iff you can read the numbers on the mosfets (those 18 things) can probably give you info on those too. Fdrom China, I'd guess 4410's, 4710's, but maybe 4110's. What motor do you have?

 

[dogman dan]

It might be possible to reprogram your controller for a lower lvc, or it could be that way already.

Does it say on a label what the lvc setting is? The only thing keeping you from running 60v nominal is the possibility that the lvc is higher than 60v. I'm not sure if you mean 60v max charge, (48v) or 60v nominal, that might max charge to 72v. 60v lvc is fairly common on 72v controllers.

FWIW, 1500w divided by 35 amps is 42v. You more or less need to run 48v if you want max amps to be in the 1500w ballpark. At 72v you are in the 2500w max ballpark.

More fets generally means the controller can do more amps with less heating of each fet. So the higher amps controllers tend to have at least 12 fets. The fet itself will have a max voltage depending on the model. Also, other things inside the controller may limit max voltage. Typical 72v 40 amps controllers have 100v capacitors in them, but other components inside the controller will last longer if max voltage is limited to 90v, or at least, drops to 90v pretty soon in the ride.

A replacement 12 fet 40 amps controller from ebay that is made for 48v ( 63v max charge) should be less than 60 bucks. Or you can get one sent in 72v, but with lower than normal lvc from various sources. I'd say look at ebay, and see if any 48-72v controllers are for sale cheap, if your lvc is too high.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

No MOZ in the Wiki, ha. I didn't find Endlesssphere before ordering this kit. The company I bought it from is DONGDIANEBIKEKITS CO., LTD responded to all my emails and seem to have o.k. customer service but wasnt sure if they knew for sure about their product.
Originally was getting a 72v kit but talked me into 48v kit they where saying cant promise me the dependability. But the ad said can do 48-72v...so little confused. The motor I is 1500w capable of 72 km/h
There are no markings or labels on the controller or motor. Haven't even used it or bought batteries...motor is already messing up but is in the tech section of ES.
With my FET the 18 each part# RV75N08R
A
8182S315
There are 2 lg. blue heat shrink solid lead looking caps saying 80V. 470vF
and 3 smaller ones 80V 20vF CD288H

I don't see any knobs or switches to adjust anything, guess the LVC is factory set? For the battery I was thinking maybe the 11.1v nominal 3s1p packs. hot 61.5/63volts. Maybe 10 of the 5000 mah packs in 2 parallel. 10 ah min. My possible needs.
But I prefer the 4s1p packs because I am going to be converting my 1/nitro buggy into lipo and the max the r/c buggy can take is 17v or 4s1p packs. Not
sure, seeing the max dependable voltage. Doubt I'll even share the battery packs with the r/c buggy depending on my panier setup. Thanks for all the help.
This dongdianebikekit company is the same company I see on ebay sun_____somthing same username I paid through paypal. I bought directly from the factory.

 

[wesnewell]

Found their website. http://www.dongdianebikekits.com/pro.asp But there is no details on any of their products, which is really weird. As for your controller, with 80 volt caps and what I suspect to be 75V fets from the number, you don't want to go over a battery pack with a max charge of much more than 75V. 18s lipo (75.6V) should be fine on it. This is actually a good controller for a 48V system as most will have 63V caps compared to the 80V caps in yours. 16S lipo using 4 4s packs should perform well on it. May be able to tell more if you can provide an ebay link to what you bought.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Nice, that's good to know. If i do the higher voItage (4S1P packs I'll limit it to short bursts. I saw the kit on alibaba. Researched them and gambled. They are a real company. I contacted dongdianebikekit company. Having problems pulling it up in my computer tho..but pretty much the same eith the ad not whole lot in detail. This one seller looks like he buys from them and sales it on ebay. His listing looks pretty identical. On ebay the item number is 261367123038 or 1500w ebike kit. As for now he looks to be the only one selling the 1500w motor hub on ebay.
Dongdianebikekit states twist throttle with battery gauge, no gauge just kill switch. Oval type double wall rims, single sprocket not 5 cassette. Cant really put one in , hub is big.but I think a 3 gear sprocket will fit. Saw them on ebay. Thanks

 

[wesnewell]

If this is the kit you bought, it's strictly a 48V kit. If you wanted a 72V kit, you would have gotten a 72V controller. You got a 48V controller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V1500W-e-bike-electric-bicycle-conversion-kit-electric-motorcycle-kit-/261367123038
Select the 48-72V motor and see your controller options from this site.
http://www.theebikemotor.com/pro_diy.asp?bigclassname=Products&smallclassname=eBike%20D.I.Y

 

[dogman dan]

Yeah, you have a "48v" controller. But looks like you could push it to 63v, that is 18s.

18s ought to do er, once you figure out the cogging if that is actually a problem.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Wesnewell the 2nd website ,theebikemotor.com you pasted...that's the exact rim and 1500w motor. I originally wanted 72v kit but they suggested me to take 48v kit...so with your guys knowledge and them saying they send me the 48v kit..guess it is.

Dogman with my 18 FET's I really want the higher voltage, I may use the 44.4v nominal lipo set up just to see if it can really do the speed they claim. If it does, I may just run more battery in parallel. If not can simply series more batteries and bump it up to 63v hot with less AH but a min. Of 10 ah. I really need to figure it out my voltage setup. What im understanding ..With 3s1p (11.1 nominal)pack i have to use 10 packs in 2 parrallel to get 63v hot or 8 packs to get 50.4v hot. But the 5s1p (18.5v nominal) pack, I would only need 6 packs in 2 parrallel to get 63v hot, but if I went with two of the 5s1p pack it would only be 42v hot....little under voltage. Little confusing ,spare you the headache, I think I need to just go with the 63v setup and forget all the hassles. I greatly appreciated all the help and everyone's time from the first post.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Yes, I did get the cogging fixed.

 

[wesnewell]

The cheapest way to go and still get good performance would be with 4s hardcase packs 4 of them in series is 16s ($100), which would give you 67.2V fully charged. Probably 35mph minimum top speed. I think you can get prefab balance cables to turn 2 4s plugs into 1 8s plugs (or you can make them) and you could charge the whole pack with an 8s charger by splitting it in the middle to charge. Or you could get a 16s bms and use a 67.2V bulk charger or PSU.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Sounds good,, thanks! I've been looking, I like the ac /dc charger combo. Keeps me from buying a power supply. I see ac mode watt is reduced some ,charges little slower but im fine with that.

 

[dogman dan]

The 4s packs as the basic building block makes a lot of sense. Many prefer the hardcase ones. I just bought a few more in hardcase, and some 2s, to build another 5 ah 14s pack. I have a lot of 48v controllers, so I run 14s. 14s keeps me legal under my state law.

12s is 44v, 50.4v charged
14s, which means you have to buy a few 2s packs, is 48v, 58,8v charged.
16s is close to 60v, 67.2v charged. Too much for controllers with 63v capacitors.
20s, 72v is likely too much for your current controller. But if you had some 2s packs, you could likely get away with 18s. I think.

 

[wesnewell]

If you want to run 14s and make charging easy, you need 2 7s balance plugs from your pack and a 14s charger. There's now a couple of 14s chargers. The Hyperion 1420i and the new Thunder 1430C. I've got a 1420i I bought years ago, but if I were buying today to charge a 14s pack, I'd probably get the 30A thunder 1430C. Make your 14s packs up using 4s and 3s packs to make 7s packs and the wire a 7s balance plug to them. Makes it easy to configure and charge. I started out with 2 5s and 1 4s and you can't split that into 7s packs. If you can find 7s packs with 7s plugs, that would be the way to go, but when I was searching there were only a couple of them available and the cost was like $200 for a single 7s pack when I could put a 4s and 3s pack together for $50 plus a buck and a little time to make the 7s adapter balance cable.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

So many different options...but thats agood thing. Quite over whelming at first but after countless post reading and youtube tech school I feell comfortable. I decided with 4s hardcase packs. 5000mah ,16s2p. 10 ah. The price is right for the lipos,charger. The battery dimensions.... 8 packs will work for my bike. I miss my dirtbikes but some of these I see here are pretty close ride, look to be a blast with getting exercise too...biggest advantage is the up keep and parts are soo much cheaper than dirtbikes. Can't wait till I get mine done. Thanks all

 

[friendly1uk]

I thought somebody german might of answered this.
We are all speaking germanic and swapping an S for a Z is not uncommon. Ezpecially Americanz with their bastardised queenz english.

I expect them mean mos-fet.

 

[dogman dan]

Going for 16s, means charging in an 8s configuration might be the best approach.

One of my charging setups has worked good for me, Two 150w 8s chargers, and one 350w meanwell power supply. Breaking the pack into two sections, I can charge both sections at once, at a 300w rate. I get most recharges in two hours or less.

Or, by paralleling the two 8s sections, you can charge it at 8s, and perhaps use a higher wattage 8s charger.

Don't consider the quad chargers, that do 4 separate 50w charges (200w). You want at least 300w rate of charge, or it will just take too long.

You might look at a 12s charger. It would run the whole pack if you dropped to 12s for slower riding. Or adapt well to it, if you went to 24s later. Same applies if you bought a 14s charger.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Im glad you mentioned the quad charger in a previous post I ran into here on ES. I didn't know enough at the time and 50 watts wouldn't have worked with my time frame. I will go with 1 charger for now and parrallel charge it. Even the 180 watt chargers are priced right. I may buy another later if I need faster charging... all my rides are pretty limited and predictable right now with all I have going on now. After playing some maybe even an extra battery set up. Ill go out and give it spin. But have to admit 2 hours or less of charging sounds really nice. Thks!