What happens to A123 batteries when they die?

fechter

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What happens to A123 batteries when they die?
And I don't mean do they go to heaven or get recycled at Doc's place.

Do they short out? Go open? Look like they took a charge but don't deliver? Get hot? Still work but at a lower voltage? etc. etc...

There must be piles of bad cells pulled out of dead DeWalt packs.

Just curious. This would be good to know if we want to detect bad cells in a pack.
 
I guess it would mean by bad. If overvolted till it goes POP then they effectively short out, but will still pass current...at least mine did.
If you mean well used as in thousands of cycles, I can't say for sure, but mine have slowly held less voltage under load and also decreased total MAH delivered.
 
Hi,
I'm new to this form. Hope you don't mind me jumping in. I'm at a point of making up a 10s 10p pack for my bike. But this situation worries me.
If an A123 cell shorts out in a non paralled pack, thats not to big a problem. Your vehicle or model will run slower, or your low voltage detector will trip.
If the cell is paralleled with say 9 others, will there be smoke? The 9 other good cells, capable of over 1000 amps peak, will try to bring up the voltage of the shorted cell. What will happen to the shorted cell? Another situation is if a cell develops a low impedance, it will become warm or hot and slowly drain down the 9 other cells, likely down to 0 volts. This is all theory. Has anyone encountered this?
Thanks
Electricdirtbiker :)
 
I've killed a few, once in use on the bike. 4 cells went to 0v, and didnt recover. I carried on using the pack for a few cycles to see what would happen (always ready to jump off the trike and start beating at the flames), the cells got warm, and pull the voltage down alot under load, but no flames, hottest I saw on the temp guage (I had cunningly placed on the bad cells) was 70c.
When you try to charge a dead cell, again, it just gets warm, and when you disconnect power its voltage drops back to 0
Paralleling a good cell and bad cell didnt kill the good cell, though perhaps given enough time it might have (at least with no BMS to tell you when there was a problem)
 
Electricdirtbiker said:
Hi,
I'm new to this form. Hope you don't mind me jumping in. I'm at a point of making up a 10s 10p pack for my bike. But this situation worries me.
If an A123 cell shorts out in a non paralled pack, thats not to big a problem. Your vehicle or model will run slower, or your low voltage detector will trip.
If the cell is paralleled with say 9 others, will there be smoke? The 9 other good cells, capable of over 1000 amps peak, will try to bring up the voltage of the shorted cell. What will happen to the shorted cell? Another situation is if a cell develops a low impedance, it will become warm or hot and slowly drain down the 9 other cells, likely down to 0 volts. This is all theory. Has anyone encountered this?
Thanks
Electricdirtbiker :)

I agree with Jozzer,

When a cell is dead, his voltage is zero or close to that... couples of mV..

If a cell is at3.4V for exemple, it can't short! and can't go to zero by itself...

So if a cell is connected to many other in parallel, his voltage will be the same than others... so it's imposible it short.

But if an entire group of paralleled cells goes to zero volt (overdischarge, the zero V cell... (ALL CELLS) will be dead.

Usually, a cell gors dead because cell reversal happened ... and if cell goes to zero or it reverse few second, it is possible to recover it.. but it will had lost mAh..

Doc
 
Thanks guys, that helps.
I have a bunch I need to test, but I don't want to run every cell separately on an analyzer (too lazy). I also want to be sure any potential BMS designs can detect shorted cells. :wink:
 
fechter said:
Thanks guys, that helps.
I have a bunch I need to test, but I don't want to run every cell separately on an analyzer (too lazy). I also want to be sure any potential BMS designs can detect shorted cells. :wink:

there is a short cut to find bad cells (if i am right). just discharge the cells in series and data log the results http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3652 this will show you where cell reversal of one cell is compared to the rest of the pack. if the voltage drops off a cliff at the end of discharge then you know the pack is ballanced. but if the discharge graph looks like a set of stairs (see graph) then you know that some cells are reversing before the pack is totally discharged.

Right?
 
But reversing the cells is what kills them. Don't want to do that.

I can find really dead ones just by measuring the voltage.

If I put a bunch in parallel and test them, I should be able to tell if they're all good. If one is bad or has low capacity, then I'd have to break the parallel pack up to see which one is weak.
 
For speed, I usually discharge strings of 10+, watching the voltages carefully untill one starts dropping fast. If this is before 2 Ah have been drained, I ditch the bad one. If you do this in parallel its hard to tell quite whats going on. Of course, charging them all in parallel is a good way to get the verified good cells all balanced well before you build the pack.
Your going t o like these cells Fechter, they suit your personality/riding tastes :twisted:
 
My experience pretty much parallels what Steve has seen, and I haven't seen the case where a 0V cell can eventually "kill" other cells that are in parallel with it. I do still have packs that were constructed using cells that have been fairly well trashed in RC heleicopters, and some of the cells definitely were "stressed", with reduced capacities, but the packs still work pretty well. The trick is that you just can't let any cell, or group of paralleld cells, get down to 0V, or they die.

What I've found is that it is pretty easy to pick out stressed a123 cells. just by checking the voltage of the cells, about 10-20 minutes after a full charge. With healthy cells, a "surface" charge builds up across the electrodes so that if you measure the voltage, it will read somewhere between 3.50V-3.60V. As soon as even a light load is placed on the cells, even for just a few seconds, this surface charge will disappear, and the measured voltage will drop down to somewhere around 3.4V. Stressed cells drop down to somewhere between 3.30V-3.40V within a few minutes. the surface charge phenomena is pretty much gone.

I've not had a case using healthy cells in parallel first, and then in series, where a block of cells died, or even got stressed. I even had a case where I dropped a pair of pliers that ended up dead-shorting a couple blocks of 4 cells in parallel, in a pack I was building, and even though the short lasted long enough to burn some pretty big pits on the pliers, the cells only lost about a tenth of a volt, if that, and they did not get stressed.

the only time I have actually killed cells in an ebike pack is in a setup where I was acually using four separate 16s1p strings, that where then connected in parallel. One day, I inadvertanly forgot to hook up two of the four strings, and then went out on one of my "normal" rides. All of a sudden, about 2/3rds into the ride, I noticed the power suddenly died, like someone turned off the switch. I actually checked the controller wires, because I thought maybe I lost a phase, or something. but then I looked at the Wattsup, and noticed the pack voltage was down to about 37V. That's when I discovered two of the four 16-cell strings were not connected. I swapped these "full" ones for the drained strings, and bingo, full power again. :)

I ended up with several 0V/dead cells in each of the two failed 16-cell strings. Most of the cells were around 2.5V, but a few were down around 1.6V or 1.7V. The ones that were still up at 2.5V recovered just fine. The 3-4 that were under 2V ended up being "stressed". The few that actually now read 0V are truly dead.

What was interesting about what happened is that I had literally no nitice that anything was wrong. Literally seconds before the pwer died, I was going up a slight hill, and it was working fine. I coasted down the other side of the hill and then applied power, but nothing was there. The reason for this is because of the extremely high "C" rating of a123 cells, which are rated at 30C continuous and over 50C for 10 second "bursts". with even two of these 2.3 Ah cells in parallel, that translates to 138A continuous and a whopping 230A for 10 seconds. That means a typical ebike 40A peak load is nothing for even a 1p configuration of these. This means there is very little voltage drop, even under load and even with me only having two of the four strings hooked up. The voltage stay about the same, all the way up until about 10 seconds before the end. The more balanced the cells are, the less "notice" you get. Anyway, this experience is why I pursued doing the LVC board. Also, the reason I picked the 2.7V version of the TC54 detector chip si to try and catch the end-of-duration voltage "dumping" as soon as possible. The lower voltag version of the chip would still keep the 0V condition from happening, but I was worried that the lower cutoff voltage might let cells get stressed, even if they weren't killed. Bottomline is it works quite well. I can run my a123-based packs down to where the LVC starts tripping, and the Ah used readout on the Wattsup show the rated capacity has been used, sometimes a bit more.

With other LiFePO4-based cells, with lower C ratings, I think the 2.1V TC54 chip is the one to use. This is because the voltage drop under load is greater, so towards the end of the duration, the cell voltage could dip down to under 2.7V, under high loads. With my LiFeBatt-based packs, it takes 80-85A loads for this to happen, but using the 2.1V versions, I can run all the way down to where the LVC starts tripping, and the capacity used is usually right at 10Ah.

-- Gary
 
I actually shorted a series of 4 cells over 3 inches of 60A cable and 70A powerpoles by mistake on one daft occasion. I left it a full 6 seconds beofre I realised the cables were getting a "mite warm" and pulled it apart. The cells live on :lol:
That taught me not to make complicated strings of cells with countless andersons!

The A123's on the Aprilia drop to lower than 2.7v Gary, although they have some lifebatts in parallel I think the A123's take all the load under abuse. I've had to use your LVC as a dash warning light rather than a cutout...the object of the ride being to avoid the red light! I'll be adding more cells soon, I expect 2.7v may be ok again then.
 
I've never tried a single "p" a123 setup before. In fact, the least I've ever tried was the inadvertant "2p" configuration, when I killed the cells. Using the LVC boards, I've only ever used 4p, 5p and/or 6p setups.

-- Gary
 
Thanks for all your responses.
Is it bad for the cell to be run down to zero volts, or is cell reversal in a series pack we are trying to prevent?
Where are people storing their homemade battery packs? The precautions taken for the poly type lithiums seem unheard of with the for the a123 cells.
Thanks
 
Question regarding "dead" a123, can you zap them back like nicads? That is, on a nicad that shows 0v, you can connect a 12v lead acid to it for a moment to a few seconds or so and they'll almost always come back to life with a more or less bad case of self discharge. (or sometimes they pop, don't let em get warm, heh) But what happens if you try that with a dead a123? Or variation on the theme, say discharge a camera flash trough it or something.
 
Mathurin said:
Question regarding "dead" a123, can you zap them back like nicads? That is, on a nicad that shows 0v, you can connect a 12v lead acid to it for a moment to a few seconds or so and they'll almost always come back to life with a more or less bad case of self discharge. (or sometimes they pop, don't let em get warm, heh) But what happens if you try that with a dead a123? Or variation on the theme, say discharge a camera flash trough it or something.

Nope, this does not work with any Lithium-based chemistry. In fact, if you tried this with a ithium-Cobalt cell, it would most likely explode.

-- Gary
 
Well, I did see one of my A123's become a flare! Granted, it smoked a bunch more and the fire did not last long. What happened? I was soldering a 6p pack. I did not have the little cardboard jackets on. The cells were all FULLY CHARGED (don't do this!). After soldering them, I wanted to set them by a fan to cool down. I began walking across the room holding the buss wire with a channellock plier. Suddenly, the pack shifted and the channelock shorted against the case of one of the "naked" cells. Some spark and then a flare-like flame and smoke. I panicked and began trying to step on the cell to snuff it. It would not go out so I began to worry that the next cell would catch and so on... Eventually the flame died down and I felt I should quickly unsolder the 5 other cells but I was too late--apparently the cells dumped their entire charge into the shorted/burned cell. No cell was recoverable.

Since this incident I now leave the cardboard tubes on and discharge before making a pack. I have had no other drama. I hope I don't get cancer from A123 smoke. Does anybody know what the liquid contents are?

Also, I did open a few dead cells to see how they are made. There is no main rod like in, say, a "D"-cell. Rather, there is a long rolled up set of sheets that have little copper flat "buss-bars" that connect the terminal. The top terminal (negative) is riveted on. The "vent" is acheived by a plastic disc but not the big gray insulating one...it is milky looking. The bottom can vent also by the fact that it can separate. There is sealant in the rivet which some call a vent but it is not one. I have had some cells "vent" and yet act normal in all regards...perhaps long term they will dry up and die since they may no longer be sealed. The gas that escapes when a cell gets too hot has a fairly pleasant, citrus-like odor. I will probably die soon. I still feel these cells are very safe. I knew a guy who lost his eyesight when a lead-acid car battery exploded in his face.

Jeff K. "Deep Cycle"
 
I want to see the video of that one!

I have no idea how toxic the stuff inside is. There should be a MSDS for A123 cells somewhere that spells it out. Maybe you don't really want to know....

Other than the mishap with the pliers, were you sucessful in soldering the cells? I have a bunch that need connecting and I'm still debating whether to wait until I find someone with a big spot welder or attempt soldering them.
 
I read here that the aluminum can is galvanized, making it solderable.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650065&page=4

Lomcovak used Sn60Pb40 solder with MTL468R flux and his hammerhead soldering gun. You are right that aluminium can not be soldered well. But A123 cell has an aluminium body only. Minus pole is galvanized and bottom of the cell can be soldered well.

disadvantage
 
I've had to solder a few Fechter, they do take solder OK. They dont like the heat though, be quick or lose cycles. Your cells have no tabs at all?
 
Jozzer said:
I've had to solder a few Fechter, they do take solder OK. They dont like the heat though, be quick or lose cycles. Your cells have no tabs at all?

They had tabs ,but the welds broke off on a bunch of them.
Guess they didn't have the welder dialed in at the time.
 
I have taken apart at least a dozen A123s Dewalts. They make one of the greatest batteries ever, however they can't spot weld them with any kind of consistency.

All my packs have been soldered. I got the aluminum solder and rosin from ??? (my memory sucks). I used the aluminum solder to tin them then used regular solder to attach the wires. Make sure you have a really high wattage iron, mine is 100, work quickly, and cool with a damp rag.
 
Thanks for the info drewjet.

What were you soldering onto to the ends? I mean, like wires, braid, nickel tab strips?
 
How solid a battery pack is built may determine soldering material options. Hard material conections will fracture in loosely wrapped packs. Where if the packaging is solid, any connecting material is ok. For some 1s 10p packs I want to build, I may use sheet copper with cutout soldering leggs. Almost like a centiped shape. Should be clean and low profile. But the packaging must be (hot glued?) solid or the copper legs will work loose.
 
I used both copper braiding and wires about 10g or 12g as I recall. I prefer the braiding.
 
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